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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr.K, Mar 25, 2011.

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  1. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Annoyingly, the weather wasn't dry & sunny enough to wear the fit I really wanted to for today's challenge so instead I went with a more traditional one instead. Don't worry, you'll see the more flamboyant look some time this summer (it will be minus the red tie tho').

    Anyway, my entry:

    [​IMG]

    Things I learnt from the challenge:
    - it was impossible to find a square that went well with all these elements. The starkness of the white shirt, combined with the brightness of the red tie, made any other visual counterpoint almost impossible to integrate. I gave up after trying about 3 squares and realising none of them looked good. Weirdly, worst of that lot was white linen. Anyway, no square seems best (or, least worst).
    - I felt that I was back dressing up for school or as if I worked in some souless office. Didn't really like that effect, but the weather prevented me from wearing what I really wanted to, and this was the only practical look I could generate from the rest of the wardrobe. The challenge parameters would have been a lot easier to work into a summery look where the white shirt could have been used to complement lighter shades in both the trouser & jacket, instead of having to rely more on stark contrasts to create a look.
    - I guess what the two points above highlight is that I found the white shirt + red tie combination to be a really difficult combination to integrate into my personal style, given the no-suit stipulation. If we'd been allowed suits, it would have been much easier. But then again, it's called a challenge for a reason! :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
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  2. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    HF, if you had to pick the Friday challenge, what would you choose?
     
  3. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    I actually think this is kind of great. I think trousers a little wide-ish like that look beautiful when they fall as well as those do. The shoulder looks nice in the long shot, but in the close-up it looks kind of rigid with the very drapey chest. Based on the other photos you've posted of it, I'd be happy with it -- but they're your clothes. The "Friday Challenge" elements of the fit take it down a notch, I think, and I'm a little wary of patterned trousers with navy blazers -- but that's probably just me.
     
  4. HuskyDandy

    HuskyDandy Active Member

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    Clags: TU for feedback...yeah...I do look like I'm hawking peas or something....let's say I wanted to keep jacket/slacks and the shoes--I had many favorable comments on the shoes--what color shirt? A blue check? Yellow? I have a purple gingham that fits well... thanks again..just trying to learn.
     
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Patience, my son. He'll win one eventually. Let him keep his powder dry until then.
     
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  6. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Patterned odd trousers are okay for a dandified look i guess

    better minus the Summer square

    It's not the rope and pagoda per se, but the combination of the rope, convex shoulder and aggressive lapels (mitigated by the blue tie and more appropriate square here)

    It's a statement jacket- industrial- flat planes and angles and bumps, and IMO won't play with informals like those trews etc
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  7. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    I won one or two challenges back in their first forum incarnation. I couldn't remember which themes, but just looked them up in the challenge compendium thread NOBD & Spoo put together then, and it seems like one was the Black theme and the other was the FU jacket one. I can't remember the details of what I wore for them though. My first theme selection was Pattern Frenzy (compile a fit with as many patterns as possible, but which still actually looks good and not like a dog's dinner), and the second was Inspired by Nature (fits to be inspired by something - colours, patterns, textures, whatever - in the natural world i.e. trying to get people to think about how to craft a look by having an end image/muse in mind, rather than just throwing items together). Both themes had potential for high achievement, and terrible car crash failures and IIRC I think they generated both.

    I think that's important in a challenge: at their best, they provide artificial constraints that result in creative/unexpected solutions to the problem of looking good. I like seeing what problems the constraints generate; it's another way of figuring out what you actually like to see in the mirror. And at their worst, a tough challenge theme means that you can giggle at the terrible submissions. I don't know what theme I'd pick if I ever got the opportunity to pick again. But I'd probably pick similarly high-wire, high risk/reward types of theme.

    BTW, I forgot to comment earlier on RDiaz's jacket and his feeling of discontent about its silhouette. Personally, I would agree with those thinking it looks very nice in general, but would benefit from a somewhat less cutaway front. Apart from that, I like the rest of its appearance. Of course, the more important thing is whether he likes it. If not, before ordering another jacket, it would be worth figuring out what he'd ideally like from a jacket that this one isn't giving him rather than over-focusing on individual construction elements i.e. take a holistic look for an archetype of the kind of jacket he wants and then finding out whether his tailor likes making that sort of jacket.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
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  8. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    nice consultation. errrr... comment, Dr H [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    yeah RD if u stick with this u can't go wrong- looks great
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
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  9. bernoulli

    bernoulli Senior member

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    I went to the Opera to see Aida in Rio. Trust me, I was definitely overdressed. Pay no mind to the weird angle in the first pic, the girlfriend is 5'4" while I am 6'5". The right sleeve (left on the pic) is not short, must be snagging in the jacket.

    Trousers have a very small check pattern that I really like (I bought it at Zara in Rome). Shirt is pale green.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Thanks for the comments, gents. The finished jacket that came from the factory didn't have concave shoulders, they were straight diagonal lines. Then I asked the tailor to remove as much padding as possible - the effect I really wanted was that of a soft, convex shoulder with roping, like this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    He did, but he also adjusted for forward shoulders and only then the shoulders became concave. We need to work on that, because I believe if the long front balance problem is fixed, I won't need that adjustment. I don't think I can get a drape, or Neapolitan cut jacket from him (and won't try to), but I believe convex, soft shoulders should be achieveable, along with much less open quarters. Will work on that, either with this tailor or with a new one [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
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  11. Crat

    Crat Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
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  12. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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    Jeeze Crat! That is killer right there..what is that flannel.. and the last couple days, I have seen some awesome 3 button looks that it makes me feel good about my decision to work on the 3 button suit that I have..
     
  13. Brickbone

    Brickbone Active Member

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    Crat- !!! that rocks.

    Diaz- V le V's jacket is Neapolitan bespoke IIRC ... others'll know better than me, but is that look achievable by remedial work on a jacket made with an entirely different object? If I can use a car analogy, putting hardened cams in a stock plant will like as not put the whole thing out of whack rather than provide more grunt- I like Holdfast's gestalt approach.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  14. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    It's just a picture I used to illustrate soft and roped shoulders, which aren't exclusive to Neapolitan tailoring. And if you remove padding, you need to re-cut the shoulder to a more sloped shape, of course.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
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  15. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    Several weeks old, but I packed my gloves away not too long ago and somehow want to get them out again :(. From a shoe launch event of Justin/The Shoe Snob at Gieves&Hawkes [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
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  16. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  17. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Jesus Christ, you look like my roommate.

    Nice pattern on your suit. I now see why you have a solid shoe collection.
     
  18. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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    This isn't just good, it's truly excellent. I especially like the prewar style braces buttons on the outside of the pants.
     
  19. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Spring is here. Linen jackets and (purple) linen ties for all. (Ms. C was needing a sympathetic ear, hence the phone).

    [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.
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