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2nd Opinion on leather jacket fit


New Member
Mar 20, 2023
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I posted in FDL as well, but want to see what the people here think;

Recently picked up a Double Helix Innovator. Great jacket and my GF loved the back pocket feature for riding. If I have one gig I noticed is that the jacket has a generic leather smell (like my GF's LV bag) as opposed to my other Double Helix jacket that has a strong, sweet smell that lingers to this day (maybe Snake Oil Provisions put some conditioner on it? maybe thats what happens when you ship it from LA to Europe in the summer inside a plastic bag within a box?)

With a weird caveman posture with shoulders rolled forward, I noticed that the majority of my weight is on my upper back/upper lats area. If my pectoral muscles is a size 38, my back muscles is a size 42. Around my chest measures 41" and 42" when flexed and inhaled.

I saw this jacket in person and was able to try on a size 40 vs size 42.

Size 40: Has a 43.3" chest around. So 2 inch play around the chest. Fits comfortable enough that I can use this for riding without the sleeves riding up. Can layer with a hoodie comfortably even when zipped all the way up, albeit obv tight but still able to move. I dont know if its the pattern/maybe the armholes are bigger or rounder but in theory this jacket should feel too tight around the chest (based on old threads here I am supposed to have 4 inches around the chest) BUT it feels generous enough. Thing of concern is that the action back seems to be extended by half an inch or so when I am wearing it (note: the action back still has more room to extend). Not sure if its because the leather have not settled yet but thats how it looks right now. Nitpicking, I know. Double Helix models look like they are wearing it like this as well (snug)

Size 42: Obviously feels large (45 in around the chest) and I feel like I am swimming in it. GF and store clerk says its too big. Action back stays flat. In theory this should be my size (+4 inch chest ease) but its big in every other measurement, length, arms, etc. and my waist area has A LOT of room. It has NO taper at all in the pattern so I would have to get it tailored.

In the same store they also have an RMC J24 in size 40 (new size), and I tried it on and it felt like a DH size 42... which is why I am very curious about this and made this thread. Is that how a D pocket/J24 supposed to or traditionally supposed to fit? .

Understand that the fit is subjective btw, just want this to also fit proper and curious. Wont have this feel weird when its broken in and the novelty is gone. My style is mostly more streamlined and slim, not really vintage/heritage. But I am thinking I can make it work with a fit that has a looser vintage/old school looking leather jacket.

With all this in mind, should I size up or down? $0.02 cents is appreciated.


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New Member
Mar 20, 2023
Reaction score
It sounds like you've done your due diligence in trying on both sizes and evaluating how they fit your body type. Ultimately, the decision of whether to size up or down will depend on your personal preference and how you want the jacket to fit. It seems like you are leaning towards the size 40 since it fits comfortably enough for riding and allows you to layer with a hoodie, but you are concerned about the action back seeming extended when you wear it. Keep in mind that leather jackets will typically stretch and conform to your body over time, so it's possible that the action back will settle in and not be as noticeable. If you're still unsure, you could try reaching out to Double Helix or Snake Oil Provisions for their input on sizing and fit. Ultimately, the most important thing is that you feel comfortable and confident in the jacket.

Yep. Just worried about the "proper" fit. Thing is not cheap lol

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