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Sartorium

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Yup, this is definitely the case. If you didn't get your backorders from Southwick, then I'm going to run the production through RTC (Rochester Tailored Clothing). Their quality is exceptional, and I really have a TON of fabrics to choose from. It's probably going to take a week or so, but I'll get everything shot with stills and video, and start to present this to our backorder customers next week. RTC is on Summer union holidays for another 7 days, so they'll be ready to start on all this right after they resume. We should be able to have everything delivered in September.
:( I fear I will never see anything quite like that linen pattern again in a suiting fabric
 

Michigan Planner

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:( I fear I will never see anything quite like that linen pattern again in a suiting fabric
That’s my fear with a couple madras jackets I was waiting on. :confused2:
 

sartoria vacua

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@Epaulet ... is the woolrich herringbone you demo'ed (so to speak) on insta tv same as the tobb herringbone from the fw17 preorder doyle run? thx.
 

Poomba

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Do the shorts have much stretch to them? Mine are a little slim in the thigh, but if they were a pair of normal cotton shorts, they'd likely stretch out perfectly for me
 

Epaulet

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:( I fear I will never see anything quite like that linen pattern again in a suiting fabric
Don't worry, I've got some wacko goods that are going to be right up your alley

That’s my fear with a couple madras jackets I was waiting on. :confused2:
Yeah, unfortunately that particular madras is lost to the wind, but I know your style... I can find comparable items here.

One great thing about RTC.. they make it really easy for me to send them fabric. So I can also source things from my local dealers here in LA..the same people that I get many of the Doyle/Sinclair fabrics from.

Also... for lighter weight stuff.. if either of you guys are feeling these things from Individualized, then chances are that I can buy some yardage to do jackets or pants. Lots of Madras options there.


Oh and I have your white sweatshirt @Michigan Planner !!

@Epaulet ... is the woolrich herringbone you demo'ed (so to speak) on insta tv same as the tobb herringbone from the fw17 preorder doyle run? thx.
No, this is a new fabric. I've definitely run similar stuff to this, but the two rolls came straight from Woolrich and I got them in December of last year.

Bit of a coincidence, but as I was walking around town, it struck me that I was wearing 100% Epaulet clothing (including my mask).

View attachment 1440475
This is awesome! Is that a Lockie sweater from the 2016 run?
 
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Knox

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Hey Knox, thank you so much for the question! I need to make a larger announcement of this, but for the moment, here's the recap:

1) We'll formally announce our partnership with Rochester Tailored Clothing this month

2) RTC is the historic Hickey Freeman factory... aka "The Temple of Fine Tailoring"

3) Hickey Freeman's brand name is owned by a Canadian holding company, so we can't use that in our communication. But all of our garments are made by the Hickey Freeman USA craftspeople, at the OG Hickey Freeman factory. So if you own a Hickey MiUSA garment from 2019 or before, the quality and finish will be the same. And it's really excellent.

4) It's a huge YES to all of the questions that Knox asked. I have the complete specs for all Southwick models, including shapes like the Douglas and Cambridge that we never offered. We should be able to effectively make anything in those existing fits. I don't have any try-on samples or easy non-technical measurements though, so it's best for us to make a known shape and size (like this example where Knox knows exactly what he wants), versus trying to fit someone new for a Douglas.

5) I have at least 80 incredible four-season and FW fabrics in my hands now. In the next week, I'm going to shoot and video these. We'll reach out to any Southwick customers who never received their orders, and work out substitutions. Production time is pretty quick, so if I owe you a suit or Sportcoat, you can expect to hear from me soon with a fabric list, and for your finished garments to be in your hands in September.
Fantastic.
Thank you.
 

fiestaplatypus

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Thanks for all of the great feedback guys! I know that your time is valuable and this is a busy season for everyone, so I sincerely appreciate it! It's really helpful, and I've gotten quite a few pointers that I can use to push the business forward next year.

...

Absolutely, I'll work to do more of this. Do you guys like the short videos where I recap the top few units out of a big selection of things?

...

Good call on talking about the fabric more. I have been working to photograph the finished products as much as possible for our custom work. And when we do preorder projects, I try to have full samples made up so we can photo and video them fully.

...

Gonna talk about the Rivets in a little bit, but I hear you on the sourcing bit. I'm not opposed to making stuff overseas, but to date I've never been particularly successful with it. Our Portugal made shirts were amazing (IMO), but the reaction was always pretty "meh" to them. Sure I could probably do a woven shirt out of China for like $85 in basic oxford cloth, but I'd be just one of many brands offering that.

...

Regarding the Rivet Chino rise: it's something that we've kept constant for the past 6 years or so. It's actually the same rise as the Walt, which I always considered a fairly medium rise shape. I'd be honestly nervous to change it because we've sold maybe 15,000 - 20,000 pairs with these specs over the years, and it's worked really well. One shape can't work for everyone, but this seems to deliver a look that the majority of our customers like.

...

I really need to talk clearly about the distinctions on my site too. A new customer coming to the website is given the choice between "Rivet" or "Wilhelm" and how TF is he supposed to know the difference between those two things?!?

* Alden and Sneakers were difficult as hell. Both of those categories are gone.

* Hertling is constantly in flux. It's clear that they have a hard time delivering a big diversity of fabrics and shapes. Our next project with them will feature just one fabric, and they've promised a four-week lead time. Since they'll be doing it at a relatively quiet time of the year, I feel confident on that.

* Southwick is a lot better than before. We had some slow lead times on promotional fabrics, but the majority of our stock orders were delivered within the window this year. And I'd say that things are more correct than ever. We used to have sizing issues like what @FLW sadly experienced, but they're largely resolved.. mostly because I do all of the order submissions myself.
So, I've checked in to this thread a few times over the past year or so, but that came following a 5-6 year hiatus of shying away from the online menswear world altogether. Long story. I was a fairly frequent customer during the Carmina MTO group years with a few wild purchases (Ruby shell oxfords, python austerity, purple tweed walt trousers, etc). Let's just say my wardrobe has ...changed... a bit since moving into my late 30's. :cool:Fortunately, the Woolrich MTO tweed stuff definitely fits into my current style; I've always been a sucker for heavy wool and earth tones.

Enter the bolded passages above. Browsing the website, I had a lot of difficulty in finding good explanations of the cuts of the various trouser/pant models now available (I did find a good page for the Southwick models through a Google search, but couldn't find anything significant for the Rivets). I recall the Walt, Rivet, and Rudy fits from my first Epaulet interactions, but I wasn't aware of which factory produced which models back then.

Now looking at the MTO page for The Last American Tweed Project items, I see Rivet and Wilhelm chinos, but no mention of the one fit I knew well, the Walt. I happened to have found a separate MTO page for numerous other trouser models, which appear to be produced at Hertling. Pricing looks a bit higher, which I assume is because these are smaller, non-group MTO orders with a different factory (Hertling?) or because this page was listed in advance of the new Project page, which simply features special pricing and/or different models chosen to downsize the total number of models for the group order.

Can you clarify the differences between where the Walt will be produced (if available) vs the Rivet? I'm familiar with Hertling's recent delivery issues, having ordered a couple of times from them directly, last fall, but I've always loved the quality of their work. I've also casually followed the Brooks Brothers / Southwick closing, but I'm assuming they're not currently taking any orders until the new BB owners give some direction.

I'm certainly willing to give this Rochester facility a shot if they're the ones producing the items for the Last American Project, but it'd be nice to have a bit of clarification. It seems you have some plans to clean up the site in the future, so I apologize if I'm just rubbing salt in the wound.

On a side note, I loved the short vid breaking down these awesome fabrics. It was good to see them with a changing camera angle / light source, especially given their color similarities.

Anyways, thanks so much!!
 

fiestaplatypus

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And you said at some point down the line, a Quincy from RTC in that herringbone would be possible? What sort of pricing do you think that would hit?
Oh man. Was this just the herringbone or also including the Sandy Donegal? If just the herringbone...would it be because of the extra weight?
 

ErikW

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Yes, @Epaulet - it's one of the Lockie sweaters from 2016. I think it was the "ultraviolet & merlot" colorway. Super warm, so I don't break it out very often living in Texas. But, it's always a real treat when I do get the opportunity to.

Don't worry, I've got some wacko goods that are going to be right up your alley



Yeah, unfortunately that particular madras is lost to the wind, but I know your style... I can find comparable items here.

One great thing about RTC.. they make it really easy for me to send them fabric. So I can also source things from my local dealers here in LA..the same people that I get many of the Doyle/Sinclair fabrics from.

Also... for lighter weight stuff.. if either of you guys are feeling these things from Individualized, then chances are that I can buy some yardage to do jackets or pants. Lots of Madras options there.


Oh and I have your white sweatshirt @Michigan Planner !!



No, this is a new fabric. I've definitely run similar stuff to this, but the two rolls came straight from Woolrich and I got them in December of last year.



This is awesome! Is that a Lockie sweater from the 2016 run?
 

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