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Knox

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Hey Knox, thank you so much for the question! I need to make a larger announcement of this, but for the moment, here's the recap:

1) We'll formally announce our partnership with Rochester Tailored Clothing this month

2) RTC is the historic Hickey Freeman factory... aka "The Temple of Fine Tailoring"

3) Hickey Freeman's brand name is owned by a Canadian holding company, so we can't use that in our communication. But all of our garments are made by the Hickey Freeman USA craftspeople, at the OG Hickey Freeman factory. So if you own a Hickey MiUSA garment from 2019 or before, the quality and finish will be the same. And it's really excellent.

4) It's a huge YES to all of the questions that Knox asked. I have the complete specs for all Southwick models, including shapes like the Douglas and Cambridge that we never offered. We should be able to effectively make anything in those existing fits. I don't have any try-on samples or easy non-technical measurements though, so it's best for us to make a known shape and size (like this example where Knox knows exactly what he wants), versus trying to fit someone new for a Douglas.

5) I have at least 80 incredible four-season and FW fabrics in my hands now. In the next week, I'm going to shoot and video these. We'll reach out to any Southwick customers who never received their orders, and work out substitutions. Production time is pretty quick, so if I owe you a suit or Sportcoat, you can expect to hear from me soon with a fabric list, and for your finished garments to be in your hands in September.
I look forward to seeing the Rochester Tailored Clothing fabrics.
 
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Sneaky Pete

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I am about to pull the trigger on the Yoshiwa tobacco Sinclair, as I love that fabric. I am just checking sizing. I am usually a slim 40, skinny with longish arms. I have a Southwick/Epaulet Napoli jacket in a 40, which fits beautifully if snugly - apart from the sleeves, which are short. (I had them lengthened. I bought the jacket used so it is possible that they had been shortened previously). I also have an Epaulet-Individualised flannel shirt (cream and peppermint) which fits beautifully. I assume I'm a 40 in the Sinclair?
 

zenosparadox

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Do most folks size down from their Rivet size for the Wilhelm? For instance, if I comfortably take a 36 in Rivet, might I want to take a 35 in Wilhelm? I don't need the extra thigh room, but it would be nice to have a higher rise and a bit more room in the top block.
 

Epaulet

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So, I've checked in to this thread a few times over the past year or so, but that came following a 5-6 year hiatus of shying away from the online menswear world altogether. Long story. I was a fairly frequent customer during the Carmina MTO group years with a few wild purchases (Ruby shell oxfords, python austerity, purple tweed walt trousers, etc). Let's just say my wardrobe has ...changed... a bit since moving into my late 30's. :cool:Fortunately, the Woolrich MTO tweed stuff definitely fits into my current style; I've always been a sucker for heavy wool and earth tones.

Enter the bolded passages above. Browsing the website, I had a lot of difficulty in finding good explanations of the cuts of the various trouser/pant models now available (I did find a good page for the Southwick models through a Google search, but couldn't find anything significant for the Rivets). I recall the Walt, Rivet, and Rudy fits from my first Epaulet interactions, but I wasn't aware of which factory produced which models back then.

Now looking at the MTO page for The Last American Tweed Project items, I see Rivet and Wilhelm chinos, but no mention of the one fit I knew well, the Walt. I happened to have found a separate MTO page for numerous other trouser models, which appear to be produced at Hertling. Pricing looks a bit higher, which I assume is because these are smaller, non-group MTO orders with a different factory (Hertling?) or because this page was listed in advance of the new Project page, which simply features special pricing and/or different models chosen to downsize the total number of models for the group order.

Can you clarify the differences between where the Walt will be produced (if available) vs the Rivet? I'm familiar with Hertling's recent delivery issues, having ordered a couple of times from them directly, last fall, but I've always loved the quality of their work. I've also casually followed the Brooks Brothers / Southwick closing, but I'm assuming they're not currently taking any orders until the new BB owners give some direction.

I'm certainly willing to give this Rochester facility a shot if they're the ones producing the items for the Last American Project, but it'd be nice to have a bit of clarification. It seems you have some plans to clean up the site in the future, so I apologize if I'm just rubbing salt in the wound.

On a side note, I loved the short vid breaking down these awesome fabrics. It was good to see them with a changing camera angle / light source, especially given their color similarities.

Anyways, thanks so much!!
Thank you! Yes, we can absolutely do Walt trousers in this fabric. The Sandy Donegal is actually at Hertling already... he probably has enough fabric to do about 12 units. I'm waiting a bit to promote that as we still have some outstanding units from before the pandemic, but that should be realistic to offer in a few weeks. Between RTC and Hertling, I can really do any tailored piece in these.

Oh man. Was this just the herringbone or also including the Sandy Donegal? If just the herringbone...would it be because of the extra weight?
Both could definitely be used for an overcoat, but the heavier weight Herringbone would be a more typical match. You could certainly do a lighter weight OC with the Donegal

Yes, @Epaulet - it's one of the Lockie sweaters from 2016. I think it was the "ultraviolet & merlot" colorway. Super warm, so I don't break it out very often living in Texas. But, it's always a real treat when I do get the opportunity to.
It's so great! What a boss color

Woolrich Doyle ordered. That makes 4 Doyle's currently on order.
Thank you sir.. they're going to make up beautifully!

I look forward to seeing the Rochester Tailored Clothing fabrics.
Should be another two weeks or so and then we'll launch the whole program

I am about to pull the trigger on the Yoshiwa tobacco Sinclair, as I love that fabric. I am just checking sizing. I am usually a slim 40, skinny with longish arms. I have a Southwick/Epaulet Napoli jacket in a 40, which fits beautifully if snugly - apart from the sleeves, which are short. (I had them lengthened. I bought the jacket used so it is possible that they had been shortened previously). I also have an Epaulet-Individualised flannel shirt (cream and peppermint) which fits beautifully. I assume I'm a 40 in the Sinclair?
Oh I think that you'll get a great fit on this. The Sinclair in denim is going to fit a touch larger than a Napoli, so the body should be right on. Sleeves are natively longer too. Will be a great match to that shirt as well!

Received my Doyle for this fabric. It is terrific!
So glad that you're pleased with it!

Do most folks size down from their Rivet size for the Wilhelm? For instance, if I comfortably take a 36 in Rivet, might I want to take a 35 in Wilhelm? I don't need the extra thigh room, but it would be nice to have a higher rise and a bit more room in the top block.
No I'd say to go with the same size, the waistband has essentially the same measurement on both models. Quite a few Rivet customers have bought the Wilhelm for the style differences.. it works really well!
 

Michigan Planner

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up1911fan

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Snagged one of the Indigo Wabash Ticking Stripe Doyle's from the sale section. Hoping it's pretty lightweight as I've got several F/W Doyle's already.
 

Epaulet

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Thanks! Jacket ordered!
Thank you!

Awesome! Send me an invoice or a link to purchase it and I’m all over it!
You got it, will send in a few min and get it packed up now.

@Epaulet Is the Mac shape that you showed off in the sashiko a while back ready to go? Would it be possible to get the Woolrich fabrics in that shape from your LA factory?
Yup, it definitely is. It's actually the same shape as the waxed mac that we ran a few years ago...

f27f4fd23e242240c86c21e5130d74ec.jpg


I'm sure that I could make this in the Woolrich Tweed, but I don't have a full handle on pricing. Probably somewhere in the range of $100 more than a Sinclair.

Snagged one of the Indigo Wabash Ticking Stripe Doyle's from the sale section. Hoping it's pretty lightweight as I've got several F/W Doyle's already.
Thank you! Yeah it's a great four-season weight. It's on par with a typical chino pant weight.

Any updates on the Hertling orders from January?
I'm definitely expecting a new shipment in a week or two. Justin has committed to doing every single backorder in the next four weeks, so shouldn't be much longer.
 

Epaulet

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Okay... if anyone is following my personal Instagram, then you'd know that I BOUGHT A NEW CAMERA!

I picked up the Sony ZV-1, as I really want to up my video presentation quality. I've been making do with the Iphone for years now, but it was always problematic with exposure control and close focusing... two pretty crucial elements for selling fabric textures and small swatches. This is my first video with the new equipment, and I'm pretty happy with the results. My cinematography and music editing could probably use some work, but I'm excited to see how good the clothing looks. I'm going to feature this in tomorrow's newsletter, which will be last call for the Lockie sweater project...


You can opt to view the video in 2K to maximize those delicious color flecks. Feedback is always appreciated! And thanks again for all of the orders and support for this project. I can't wait to see these sweaters come through. They do such a great job in Scotland.
 

Epaulet

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Tweed Rivet Chinos... Order by Wed 8/19 for really fast production

Hey everyone,

For our Woolrich Tweed Project, we're offering both Rivet Chinos and Wilhelm Chinos. The overall preoroder will be open until next Tuesday at least, but if you're interested in Rivet Chinos and keen to get them sooner than later, please order them by Wed 8/19.

You can check it out and order here

As some of you guys might know, the rear pockets of our pants are done by a contractor outside of my factory. It's a bigger operation that has been hit with a few slowdowns due to COVID-19. They're working fine now, but it's always going to be a wildcard due to its size. So I'm trying to get as many units as possible over to them so that we can do it all at once.

All of our preorder Rivet chinos from the last round (Crosscut Pique, Cavalry Twill) and most of the custom pieces are cut and ready for rear pockets. I'm going to add any tweed Rivet Chinos that we sell up until tomorrow night. They'll run through and be ready right around the end of August.

So... if you want a pair of tweed Rivets and you want to get delivery around the end of August, rather than end of September, please get your order in by tomorrow night and they'll all run through. For Wilhelms, Doyles, Sinclairs, Vests, and Rivets ordered AFTER 8/19... we'll deliver by that end September date.
 

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