Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Veillar]

@jejune
Really? Happy cakeday ! (belated

Honestly I think old y’s for men are on the same par with recent YYPH, if not better (both design-wise and quality wise).
I have handled a few Y’s for men pieces from 03aw and 04ss, god knows how much they would go for if they are presented today as YYPH mainline products.

And yes, wearability is definitely one of the reasons I became attached to Yohji in the first place. Despite the fact that I hold a few showy and flashy pieces, at the end of the day, my go-to outfit would still be a simple and yet comfy suit, 100 wool gaba, and a pair of converse or Demi boots.

@Uhkon like that setup, nice purchase. As for ideal footwear, I’d say start with black canvas converse wouldn’t be a bad choice for most Yohji outfits, hope this helps

 

[jejune]

@jejune
Really? Happy cakeday ! (belated

Honestly I think old y’s for men are on the same par with recent YYPH, if not better (both design-wise and quality wise).
I have handled a few Y’s for men pieces from 03aw and 04ss, god knows how much they would go for if they are presented today as YYPH mainline products.

And yes, wearability is definitely one of the reasons I became attached to Yohji in the first place. Despite the fact that I hold a few showy and flashy pieces, at the end of the day, my go-to outfit would still be a simple and yet comfy suit, 100 wool gaba, and a pair of converse or Demi boots.

@Uhkon like that setup, nice purchase. As for ideal footwear, I’d say start with black canvas converse wouldn’t be a bad choice for most Yohji outfits, hope this helps

Thank you!

I agree about the quality of Y's For Men early on, maybe up until they merged the Y's label around 2009. Something else I notice is the YYPH tailoring is cut with larger overall measurements, making it harder for me to feel comfortable and not a bit silly (which, I know, it's Yohji). YFM pieces tend to be the perfect amount of oversized in a way that feels satisfying and not over exaggerated on me. I think they are tailored more for Japanese buyers? I'll never forget the first time I put on a khaki cotton/rayon button up and was in complete awe of the weight of the fabric and how it draped.

I have quite a bit of Yohji and Comme on the way and I'll post some more photos soon, most excited about a pair of YYPH boots.

God yea... only thing I'm really missing is a nice wool gaba suit. One of these days I'll take a trip to Tokyo and leave with one!

 

[Uhkon]

New jacket at the dry cleaner. Spring 2018

 

[takashi78]

Please post pics when its back

 

[blue-blueberry]

Hey all! Two questions, I've been lurking and learning on this thread a bit, thanks for the super cool community!

1 Where would be a good place to try on some Yohji in NYC? Specifically Homme/Y's/AR blazers and pants. I want to see what looks good on me, and then keep an eye out on ebay/resale. Google is suggesting me Atelier NY on 20 W8th St, or If Boutique at 94 Grand, but let me know if you have any other suggestions.

2 Is flat black wool gabardine THE iconic YY suiting fabric? Just curious. I'm down for whatever I like best/looks good to me, but was wondering if "classic" YY was flat black wool.

 

[jejune]

Hey all! Two questions, I've been lurking and learning on this thread a bit, thanks for the super cool community!

1 Where would be a good place to try on some Yohji in NYC? Specifically Homme/Y's/AR blazers and pants. I want to see what looks good on me, and then keep an eye out on ebay/resale. Google is suggesting me Atelier NY on 20 W8th St, or If Boutique at 94 Grand, but let me know if you have any other suggestions.

2 Is flat black wool gabardine THE iconic YY suiting fabric? Just curious. I'm down for whatever I like best/looks good to me, but was wondering if "classic" YY was flat black wool.

not sure about NYC, about glamour are out there and sometimes stock some y's and cdg. if you find anything good report back!

flat black wool is THE iconic YY suiting fabric. also there's shirting, outerwear, and trousers in the signature gabardine that can be kind of hard to go wrong with. each season there will be iterations of these, y's for men also has many garments born from it. it's hard not to consider rayon or rayon blends part of the iconic yohji fabric too though, depending on the amount of the blend and type of wool it can make for some lightweight and breathable or more substantially weighted extra liquid garments. personally i'm a big fan of yohji's use of rayon.

playing around with these new y's for men pants, gorgeous gabardine and the volume is wonderful. so amazing in motion! experimented with boots to get a feel for what works and i quite like both.

issey
shirt is cdgh (cotton black t with white stitching detail around the middle)
YFM pant
guidi/tabi

 

[Chaconne]

So glad to see this thread moving again. Those pants are awesome.

 

[squintzz]

not sure about NYC, about glamour are out there and sometimes stock some y's and cdg. if you find anything good report back!

flat black wool is THE iconic YY suiting fabric. also there's shirting, outerwear, and trousers in the signature gabardine that can be kind of hard to go wrong with. each season there will be iterations of these, y's for men also has many garments born from it. it's hard not to consider rayon or rayon blends part of the iconic yohji fabric too though, depending on the amount of the blend and type of wool it can make for some lightweight and breathable or more substantially weighted extra liquid garments. personally i'm a big fan of yohji's use of rayon.

playing around with these new y's for men pants, gorgeous gabardine and the volume is wonderful. so amazing in motion! experimented with boots to get a feel for what works and i quite like both.

issey
shirt is cdgh (cotton black t with white stitching detail around the middle)
YFM pant
guidi/tabi

I was going to ask if anyone has experience with the poly-rayon gabardine blends (more commonly used in Syte) and how it compares to the wool blends and 100% wool gabardine. There's a pair of trousers they recently released that I really like but I'm skeptical on the quality and feel of the fabric.

 

[jejune]

I was going to ask if anyone has experience with the poly-rayon gabardine blends (more commonly used in Syte) and how it compares to the wool blends and 100% wool gabardine. There's a pair of trousers they recently released that I really like but I'm skeptical on the quality and feel of the fabric.

i could never in good faith recommend any kind of polyester... i think, we all deserve better. cotton, wool, linen, silk and rayon are all i would ever consider in a garment. nylon as an exception for some kind of rain coat i suppose. i can't however speak to the quality of S'yte and those polyester blends i've never tried on or even really looked at any, so someone else may have more insight than i.

 

[blue-blueberry]

I went to If Boutique on Grand St and tried on some stuff! It's all from the AW21 collection, and pretty spendy. One of the employees was super nice helping me try on stuff and answering a bunch of questions, especially considering I wasn't going to buy anything. He said it was super slow so and didn't mind, so that was awesome.

I tried on a jacket that was pretty cool (link), it had really wild front pocket construction. Don't mind the shorts, it's been like 100 degrees in NYC this week.


Then I tried a long button down shirt and balloon pants, and I can't say enough about the pants. They are SO COOL. They just felt so good to move in. Super flowy and liquid, and not bulky or baggy feeling at all even though they were huge. The drawstrings at the waist and ankles were extremely good.

The employee helping me said that Y's and Pour Homme are both great, but steer clear of ARR if the fabric and cut is what I'm after, since it's different manufacturing, cheaper fabric, and just overall a line doing a different thing. He also said generally jackets pre 2005 ish are a boxier cut, whereas now they're more unstructured and drape-y.

I would really like to find some pants like these balloon pants on a consignment site for cheaper. Code was HX-P05-100-2, so I guess I'll keep an eye out on ebay and grilled, match the fabric code 100, and hope they also feel super awesome.

 

[jejune]

I went to If Boutique on Grand St and tried on some stuff! It's all from the AW21 collection, and pretty spendy. One of the employees was super nice helping me try on stuff and answering a bunch of questions, especially considering I wasn't going to buy anything. He said it was super slow so and didn't mind, so that was awesome.

I tried on a jacket that was pretty cool (link), it had really wild front pocket construction. Don't mind the shorts, it's been like 100 degrees in NYC this week.
View attachment 1659595

Then I tried a long button down shirt and balloon pants, and I can't say enough about the pants. They are SO COOL. They just felt so good to move in. Super flowy and liquid, and not bulky or baggy feeling at all even though they were huge. The drawstrings at the waist and ankles were extremely good.
View attachment 1659596 View attachment 1659598

The employee helping me said that Y's and Pour Homme are both great, but steer clear of ARR if the fabric and cut is what I'm after, since it's different manufacturing, cheaper fabric, and just overall a line doing a different thing. He also said generally jackets pre 2005 ish are a boxier cut, whereas now they're more unstructured and drape-y.

I would really like to find some pants like these balloon pants on a consignment site for cheaper. Code was HX-P05-100-2, so I guess I'll keep an eye out on ebay and grilled, match the fabric code 100, and hope they also feel super awesome.

that's awesome you were able to go try on some pour homme, i'd love to have a go at some current season items someday.

the jacket admittedly needs context to look right, and i actually doubt i could ever pull something like it off even if i was in the full runway set. the set with the balloon trousers though looks really nice! thanks for sharing some of the pics.

i recommend as a good starting point a pair of gaba trousers. go by measurements but keep in mind things like rise and inseam are most important, waist can be large and still cinched with a belt and hem width is just preference and i encourage trying out different widths anyway. once you have a nice pair of pants, you can easily just wear some converse or simple boots and wear with a white t even and be set! from there you can go anywhere, but a nice drapey shirt would be a fun followup to pair.

i know many people ask about alternatives, but to me if you're asking that you're coming at it all wrong. i understand things like accessibility and budget, but to put it simply there just is no alternative. if you want to wear yohji, or comme, or what have you, you need to go try it on if you can, save some money and get the good ****. if you have questions about sizing, where to find good deals, or whatever, there's so many resources out there and people that are willing to help.

definitely stick to y's and pour homme, they're the most consistent and best offerings from yohji. hope you're able to find a nice piece soon and share when you do!

 

[jejune]

CDGH Rayon Shirt
YYPH Silk / Cupra? Pants
CDGH Suede shoes

 

[Veillar]

02ss replica suit.

 

[the shah]

nice fits @jejune @Veillar

 

[squintzz]

Not a particular interesting fit but I've been lurking for a while now so I thought I'd add to the thread.
Top: Ys for men sweater
Bottom: YYPH SS18 Balloon pants
Shoes: Rick creeper boots