The Japanese Bespoke Tailoring Thread

[Destination_Arubin]

Great to see that you're still enjoying the suits that you bought ten years ago!

 

[Destination_Arubin]

@__k, I was browsing through my collection of photos, and I found this jacket from W.W. Chan. It's a very similar Holland & Sherry fabric from the Moorland Tweed bunch to the one that you chose. I think you'll enjoy your jacket from Archies very much!

 

[__k]

It's a very similar Holland & Sherry fabric from the Moorland Tweed bunch to the one that you chose.

I think this is the _exact_ fabric I chose! Thanks @Destination_Arubin for photo. Definitely makes it easier to imagine what to expect in a year from now.

 

[bauhaus82]

Another Ginza Ichibankan suit, I forgot which Japanese mill made this summer fabric. It's cream with greyish blue stripes. Made in 2016.

 

[bauhaus82]

Quick update - Cockney has been closed now for about close to 10 years - the owner sadly had health issues I believe. I would recommend Takahashi Ginza - the tailor trained in the UK (the owner), though now he has various tailors working for him - the work is superb. Kuzuri Keori is indeed one of the finest millers of cloth, and their mills still use old machines from the post war period. I would also not overlook MTM - and here F One measures you up and this goes into a computer and the suit is made in Tottori prefecture at one of the best factories in Japan - if you chose Cupla lining and real horn buttons as well as real button holes you get a very fine suit indeed for under Yen100k with Kuzuri wool

Here is an old thread I made...

Japanese suits thread

I`ve posted a few threads on Azabu tailor and Cockney Tailor, but thought I`d start a new thread on Japanese suits. There is very little on the net on Japanese suits, so this should be of benefit to everyone interested in this subject. The Japanese suit market is huge, with hundreds of...

www.styleforum.net

I might actually visit Tokyo this October! I'm def keeping these guys in mind. ✨

 

[vegancrabcakes]

Does anybody have any experience with Tailor Caid's overcoating? I've seen some of the staff at the Armoury wearing overcoats from the brand and they look incredible.

 

[DorianGreen]

Not really my style, I strongly prefer separates over suits, but this outfit by Caid looks awesome.

Great proportions overall and lovely draping trousers.

 

[DorianGreen]

Atelier Caid.

 

[bauhaus82]

Another Cockney Tailor suit, using Thomas Fisher UK fabric in charcoal with royal blue stripes. Made around 2016.

 

[bauhaus82]

Not really my style, I strongly prefer separates over suits, but this outfit by Caid looks awesome.

View attachment 2132919

Great proportions overall and lovely draping trousers.

...now I gotta visit this Atelier too.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

Tailor Caid is cool, and has quite a broad range of tailoring styles from different historical references. In the future I might get a navy sport coat from them. The one I have right now is Florentine in style, so it might be cool to get something in a different cut, with more structure through the shoulders, maybe a bit more boxy and a slightly higher buttoning point. I like Tailor Caid's double-breasted 4x2 blazer (example below), called the 'Newport blazer'.

Would also consider a navy sport coat from English-style tailors such as blue shears or sheets studio, but probably not. The waist suppression in addition to the sculpted shoulders and chest is just a bit too dramatic and formal for me. I tend to dress down tailoring. Don't even think such a jacket could be paired with a polo shirt or turtleneck easily. Something a bit more boxy feels a bit more casual to me.

 

[BlondJamesBlond]

If the majority of your stay is in Tokyo, I'd focus on the larger tailors in the Greater-Tokyo (Kanto) region, and ask whether it's possible to get an initial and basted fitting during your stay. If you arrive at, and fly out from Tokyo, then it's challenging but not impossible for a larger tailor to accommodate your request. For example, according to Tailor Caid's website, a baste fitting can be done in two weeks after order. The final garment will need to be sent overseas to you, and delivery will take place several months after the baste fitting.

Is it kosher to have a final garment shipped out, rather than be with the tailor for the third/final fitting? I'm planning a trip to Japan this summer and would probably only be able to be there for four weeks, but would love to get something from Tailor Caid.

 

[comrade]

Not really my style, I strongly prefer separates over suits, but this outfit by Caid looks awesome.

View attachment 2132919

Great proportions overall and lovely draping trousers.

There was a recently-closed retaurant in San Francisco called Shanghai 1930
which was very Deco in it's decor. In that outfit he should have qualified for a free
dinner. Great Retro style.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

Is it kosher to have a final garment shipped out, rather than be with the tailor for the third/final fitting? I'm planning a trip to Japan this summer and would probably only be able to be there for four weeks, but would love to get something from Tailor Caid.

You'd need to check directly with Tailor Caid to be certain, but my tailor Coccinella does do that for overseas clients. The website says the third fitting is at delivery. I definitely think it's a possibility.

 

[Destination_Arubin]

Thanks to everyone who recommended Kuzuri Keori’s Dominx bunch. I managed to get my hands on it, and to see it for myself.

There are many Japanese mills that I would like to learn more about, including Miyuki, Yamaei Keori and Kunishima (which I mentioned in a previous post). All are based around the Bishu region in Aichi prefecture. A lot of RTW makers including United Arrows use those fabrics. I find especially that Japanese makers make very nice mohair blend fabrics.

From a practicality point of view, I do wonder why. Mohair is nice but difficult to wear in Japan in the hot and humid Summer, where despite the open weave a mohair fabric is reduced to a sweaty mess. But the fabrics do look nice.

The Dominx bunch is primarily suiting fabrics in conservative colours. The wools have a wonderful spring back quality even when scrunched. There aren’t many jacketing options. Below are fabrics that caught my eye:

• Solid leather cloth (295g, wool 85%/15% silk); has a beautiful luster and is closely woven; has different warp and weft coloured threads, but the tight weave makes the warp threads difficult to see
• Vintage flannel (420g, 100% wool); is thickly woven with a meaty hand and a low nap; would make a great suit
• Summer gently cloth (273g, wool 73%/kid mohair 27%); an open weave high twist ‘fresco’ with different warp and weft colours; colours are impossible to catch in pictures
• Vintage 3ply (415g wool 60%/kid mohair 40%); has more characteristics of mohair than wool such as the dry, coarse hand, but drapes well and has an open weave
• Ferreira mohair gently cloth (381g 100% mohair); just wow, such a unique fabric but no idea how it makes up; has different coloured warp and weft threads, and is woven so tightly that only one single colour can be seen from either side; extremely unique hand balancing the dry and slightly coarse touch of mohair with a tight, glassy weave; doesn’t quite have the drape of a wool blend as mohair on its own and is a bit dry and brittle