Sartoria Corcos Consolidated Thread

[jonathanS]

If you only tried Solito and Dalcuore, yea Kotaro will have more extension lol.
Zizolfi has just as much extension as Kotaro, and with a stronger shoulder.

Yeah, I can only comment on what I’ve experienced. Kotaro has more extension than b&tailor too.

Does kotaro have less extension than qemal?

 

[Crispyj]

Yeah, I can only comment on what I’ve experienced. Kotaro has more extension than b&tailor too.

Does kotaro have less extension than qemal?

Yes, qemal has quite the extended shoulders.

 

[tim_horton]

I echo the sentiment that Kotaro has an extended shoulder with slight padding compared to any of the Neapolitan tailors I’ve used (which were not extended and had no padding.) Additionally, his jackets are a bit longer and his jackets are more relaxed in the chest compared to them. I’m not sure if this constitutes as “drape”. All of these are benefits IMHO.

I remember the obsession with ZERO shoulder padding and ZERO shoulder extension Styleforum had back in the day, along with Fresco (“hangs like STEEL!”) and spalla camicia, none of which are my preference.

 

[Crispyj]

I highly doubt Kotaro uses any padding... Unless you have crazy dropped shoulder on one side.

 

[tim_horton]

I’m wearing one of his suits today. Maybe padding is the wrong word, but there is a thin layer of *something* in the shoulder. It’s one level above a Neapolitan shoulder. It’s minimal, I agree. Not as much as my Hitchcock suits of yore. Just like his extension (on me) is minimal but present.

 

[Torsion]

What do you mean extended shoulder or padding (see pic)? 😂
Sorry just in that kind of mood.
Kotaro definitely puts a thin layer of something it seems, like @tim_horton said I wouldn't call it padding and I don't believe the maestro called it that when he was describing the jacket to me the other week.

 

[tim_horton]

Yeah, take what I say with a grain of salt because I am probably using the wrong terminology. It may be better to say it is not a deconstructed shoulder - you can't see the curve of your deltoid or outline of your clavice, but it isn't full on padding either. Similarly, when I say extended shoulder, it's minimally so - just enough to clear the curve of the shoulder.

I will defer to other people who can describe it better using more accurate terminology. I consider it a soft shoulder but if someone is a Neapolitan fanatic they might disagree.

I find the shoulder similar to what I remember Liverano being, but that may be bias on my part knowing that they work in the same region in Italy.

I do prefer Kotaro to Liverano, personally.

 

[classicalthunde]

Which Neapolitan did you try? Seems like a more classic shoulder, con rollino and some extension would suit that build description

Sorry I should clarify, I mean the popularized Neapolitan-style (no padding, narrow shoulders, shirt shoulder, etc.). I've tried that on three jackets to varying degrees of success

 

[jonathanS]

I highly doubt Kotaro uses any padding... Unless you have crazy dropped shoulder on one side.

I’m wearing one of his suits today. Maybe padding is the wrong word, but there is a thin layer of *something* in the shoulder. It’s one level above a Neapolitan shoulder. It’s minimal, I agree. Not as much as my Hitchcock suits of yore. Just like his extension (on me) is minimal but present.

I think you’re both right actually. On my latest order, kotaro suggested a slight pad (not Hitchcock pad mind you) because the suit was a solid navy and 450grams. I think kotaro can add some shoulder when he thinks it’d look better.

When I was having a suit made by satoki, he asked if I wanted a shoulder pad. I left it up to him & he chose not to have it. Point is, some tailors have a little range on adding / subtracting pads depending on the fabric, person, silhouette, etc. I typically leave that up to them.

 

[dawei94]

What Kotaro told me a few years ago was that for suit jackets, he likes to do just a bit of padding to make the shoulder line really clean and straight, but that otherwise he prefers unpadded shoulders (though as other people mentioned, it's not entirely unstructured, there's still something in there)

 

[Crispyj]

Any volunteers to open up their jacket? In the name of science.

Kotaro thinks I don't need any padding so all my jackets from him have been really soft. Softer than Zizolfi.

 

[jonathanS]

Any volunteers to open up their jacket? In the name of science.

Kotaro thinks I don't need any padding so all my jackets from him have been really soft. Softer than Zizolfi.

I nominate @Crispyj!

 

[Crispyj]

I nominate @Crispyj!

I just said it's pointless for me as there are no "padding" in my jacket. You admitted he added something for you. Sacrifice your jacket.

 

[gimpwiz]

Canvassing in the shoulder is common. Canvas is not the same as padding.

 

[marcusngjm]

traveling to hk tomorrow and finally managed to get an appt with kotaro!