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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Love Yohji's work?
    Curious about it?
    Think it might work for you but scared to take the plunge?
    Looking for good deals on Yohji clothing & merchandise?
    Want tips and advice on pairing Yohji with other designers?
    Want fit pics?
    Building a wardrobe?

    Inspired by _yoo's post over on RFT about the need for more designer specific threads, I have decided to take the plunge and create a designer thread dedicated to my own favourite designer. I know Yohji is not one of the more popular designers on here, but maybe this thread can help a little bit with that. Please feel free to add information, images, interview excerpts or ask questions. Everything Yohji should hopefully go here.

    Asobu where are you?? :hide:

    Anyway, some information:

    Yohji Yamamoto currently has 6 main lines. Yohji Yamamoto (women's line), Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme (men's line), Y's (women's diffusion label), Y-3 (adidas collabo), Yohji Yamamoto +NOIR and S'yte (online-only T-shirt and accessories line).

    Legacy Lines include Y's for Men, Yohji Yamamoto Costume D'Homme and COMING SOON.

    Main website
    Y-3
    s'yte

    Voguepedia entry for Yohji. (Thanks for suggestion pickpackpockpuck)


    Design aesthetic and philosophy.

    Yohji is known primarily for his baggy/loose/unstructured/anti-fit silhouettes cast in flowing black wool gabardine fabrics and elements of androgyny in his work. He is also known for asymmetry, distressed finishes and textures, raw seams, intentionally disheveled looking clothes and using traditional Japanese textile techniques (dyeing, wrapping and embroidery) and creating clothing that envelopes the wearer like loose fitting armor.

    As a fashion designer, Yohji Yamamoto generally exists outside trends and creates clothes that are inspired by his homeland, Japan, as well as multiple cultures around the world. If he could be said to have a unifying theme throughout all his work, it could be that he attempts to design clothes that have already aged even before being worn. Clothing that wraps around the body in the same way that one's favourite sweater or jacket does after years of use. A familiarity that brings with it a coziness and security that cannot be found in brand new clothing that has just been picked up off the rack. To protect the wearer and his/her identity from prying eyes. Or to project this identity from the comfort of a familiar and comfortable fort.

    Yohji's clothing may seem difficult to wear and acquire, but paradoxically, they are made for the everyman and everywoman. Clothing that can be thrown on without a care in the world and without concessions to what is in vogue today or was in style yesterday. The Yohji man should know that he is not perfect and most likely, never will be. And that's okay. It is with this arrogance and humility that one wears Yohji Yamamoto's clothes.

    ----------------------------------

    Some Yohji collaborations

    Dr. Martens x Yohji Yamamoto
    Mandarina Duck x Yohji Yamamoto
    Hermes x Yohji Yamamoto

    ----------------------------------

    Yohji on film and stage

    Notebook on Cities & Clothes (directed by Wim Wenders)
    costuming for "Brother" (directed by Takeshi "Beat" Kitano)
    costuming for "Dolls" (directed by Takeshi "Beat" Kitano)
    costuming for Tristan und Isolde (directed by Heiner Muller)
    costuming for Elton John's "The Red Piano"
    This is My Dream (directed by Theodore Stanley)

    ----------------------------------

    Online stockists

    Atelier New York
    Barneys
    Farfetch
    Forward Forward by Revolve
    Hervia Bazaar
    Ikkon
    Just One Eye & Just One Eye Accessories (Thanks for the links _yoo!)
    Lazzari Online Store (seems to be accesories only at the moment, and they stock Y'x Mandarina Duck collabo stuff, but you never know)
    LN-CC
    Penelope (also online as Public Store Five)
    Rakuten
    Wrong Weather (solid selection of Y's clothing and shoes on deep discount. Not sure if stock will be updated with new season and/or mainline pieces though)
    Yoox

    Auction Sites
    Yahoo Japan auctions
    eBay

    ----------------------------------

    Codes for various seasons.

    HB -- SS 95, SS 00, AW 06, SS12
    HC -- SS 99, AW10
    HE -- AW 95, SS 02, AW 08
    HF -- SS 96
    HG -- AW 96
    HI -- AW 97
    HJ -- SS 98, AW 04, SS 10
    HM -- AW 02, SS 08
    HN -- AW 99, AW 05
    HO - SS 93, SS 11
    HP - AW 93, AW 11
    HQ -- SS 03
    HR -- SS 06
    HS -- AW92
    HT -- SS 94, AW 00, SS 07
    HU -- SS97, AW 03
    HV -- AW 94, AW 01, SS 09
    HX -- SS 01, AW 07
    HY -- AW 98, SS 05
    HZ -- SS 04, AW 09

    ----------------------------------

    Sizing advice

    Please bear in mind that the sizing information below is strictly a guide and that as always, getting measurements or trying on the items themselves is the only way to know with any sort of accuracy whether a piece is going to work for you.

    Asobu on Yohji sizing -

    ----------------------------------

    My Dear Bomb Preview PDF
    Yohji Yamamoto - Processes and techniques via V&A

    ----------------------------------

    RECENT EDIT (23/06/2012) - List of Runway photos and videos posted in the thread listed here for easier browsing.




     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2012


  2. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    SW&D 2012 is going to be gooood grrreat AWESOME !
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011


  3. siglo vi

    siglo vi Senior member

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    got my first yohji piece today a db navy pinstripe blazer from fw11.. but i got an xs and i'm pretty sure i'm not wearing it 'loose" as intended
     


  4. Fycus

    Fycus Senior member

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    Maybe a post on the sizing would help? If I'm a 40r what should I go with in yohji suits?
     


  5. _yoo

    _yoo Senior member

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    Great thread idea! My own wardrobe has stabilized around a point where it is probably no longer easy (or financially viable!) to incorporate anything distinctively Yohji other than footwear, but I've always appreciate him from afar and wanted to learn more about him and his clothes. Will definitely be monitoring this thread and contributing what I can. There are tons of runway photos on GQ, but here are the two most recent collections in high resolution:
    Spring 2012
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Fall 2011
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011


  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    With regards to sizing -

    Older Yohji pieces were sized with the typical S/M/L labels. The more recent collections use a numbering system with 1 being the equivalent of XS/44, 2 - S/46, 3 - M/48, 4 - L/50, 5 - XL/52.

    I personally wear a size 50 which I find is equivalent to a size 4 in almost everything he makes and I get the desired oversized fit with most things. With the items that are not meant to fit oversized, this sizing has still worked for me.

    Now, there are some items that are made in one-size and these items are usually just given a label with size 3. These will work for most sizes of individual and usually incorporate some form of waist adjustment (for pants) or are just made to look different on different individuals. So, if you see some items in a size 3 only, they are generally meant to be one size fits all. A lot of his knits tend to show up in size 3 only.

    The cargo pants I got that look like Samurai pants are an example of one size fits all, with a clever button-based system for adjusting the waist and two sets of buttons on the legs for adjusting the width of the taper.

    With the FW11 season, stores in the US and EU have gotten items in sizes 1, 3 and 5 with 1 being the equivalent of 1 and 2, 3 being the equivalent of 3 and 4 and 5 being the equivalent of 5 and 6. It was only for some tailored items like shirts and jackets and not across board. Yohji sizing is pretty consistent though so if you are a 50/L just look for a size 4 and you should be fine.

    The ideal of course is to try on the clothes themselves, but I know that can be quite difficult due to the limited availability of the brand.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    :)



    Hope the post above helps a bit. :embar:


    Thanks a lot for those _yoo. Was gonna post them up as well so you definitely helped me out. Really excited by SS12 and already trying to see what I can do to get my hands on the pieces as early as possible :slayer:
     


  8. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yohji is great. SS12 is so good. I would totally wear this.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2014


  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Some of my fave Yohji men's collections/shows. His clothes are best seen in motion so that the flow and drape of the fabric can be appreciated.

    Spring/Summer 2000

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

    Autumn/Winter 2008

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

    Spring/Summer 2012

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

    I also really like Autumn/Winter 2009 but can't find a video for it anywhere. :(
     


  10. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    In my experience, the runway stuff can be worn without much fanfare if put together with the right pieces. I like Atelier and LN-CC's buys usually because they tend to get a lot of the more wearable pieces from the collections I have seen so far.

    That suit is indeed awesome. There are so many nice pieces from the SS12 collection. Really like a lot of the jackets.
     


  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Some YY fits (will crosspost some asobu ones later :nodding:) -

    Mail-Moth of Stylezeitgeist -
    (jacket and pants)
    [​IMG]

    Karlo Steel (of Atelier New York) in Yohji -
    [​IMG]

    Karlo Steel wearing the same jacket as above -
    [​IMG]

    both Karlo Steel images nabbed off Stylezeitgeist.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011


  12. hoozah

    hoozah Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    such a cool look
     


  13. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Love that mail-moth look above.

    Another thing I love about Yohji is his footwear. Much of it seems inspired by youth culture classics like Docs, Palladiums or Chucks. I love a chunky boot with a relaxed suit.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011


  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Haven't worn boots in years, but I am currently working on getting them back into my wardrobe for the very same reason. :happy:

    Here's a nice interview with Diane Pernet that I quite like because of the way Yohji describes his brand -
    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

    (off to bed now :eek:)
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011


  15. snake

    snake Senior member

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    What I've always enjoyed too about his shows is how the model's hair is styled.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


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