Ivwri
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2011
- Messages
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Love Yohji's work?
Curious about it?
Think it might work for you but scared to take the plunge?
Looking for good deals on Yohji clothing & merchandise?
Want tips and advice on pairing Yohji with other designers?
Want fit pics?
Building a wardrobe?
Inspired by _yoo's post over on RFT about the need for more designer specific threads, I have decided to take the plunge and create a designer thread dedicated to my own favourite designer. I know Yohji is not one of the more popular designers on here, but maybe this thread can help a little bit with that. Please feel free to add information, images, interview excerpts or ask questions. Everything Yohji should hopefully go here.
Asobu where are you??
![Peepwall[1] :hide: :hide:](/styleforum_ads/smilies/peepwall[1].gif)
Anyway, some information:
Yohji Yamamoto currently has 6 main lines. Yohji Yamamoto (women's line), Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme (men's line), Y's (women's diffusion label), Y-3 (adidas collabo), Yohji Yamamoto +NOIR and S'yte (online-only T-shirt and accessories line).
Legacy Lines include Y's for Men, Yohji Yamamoto Costume D'Homme and COMING SOON.
Main website
Y-3
s'yte
Voguepedia entry for Yohji. (Thanks for suggestion pickpackpockpuck)
Design aesthetic and philosophy.
Yohji is known primarily for his baggy/loose/unstructured/anti-fit silhouettes cast in flowing black wool gabardine fabrics and elements of androgyny in his work. He is also known for asymmetry, distressed finishes and textures, raw seams, intentionally disheveled looking clothes and using traditional Japanese textile techniques (dyeing, wrapping and embroidery) and creating clothing that envelopes the wearer like loose fitting armor.
As a fashion designer, Yohji Yamamoto generally exists outside trends and creates clothes that are inspired by his homeland, Japan, as well as multiple cultures around the world. If he could be said to have a unifying theme throughout all his work, it could be that he attempts to design clothes that have already aged even before being worn. Clothing that wraps around the body in the same way that one's favourite sweater or jacket does after years of use. A familiarity that brings with it a coziness and security that cannot be found in brand new clothing that has just been picked up off the rack. To protect the wearer and his/her identity from prying eyes. Or to project this identity from the comfort of a familiar and comfortable fort.
Yohji's clothing may seem difficult to wear and acquire, but paradoxically, they are made for the everyman and everywoman. Clothing that can be thrown on without a care in the world and without concessions to what is in vogue today or was in style yesterday. The Yohji man should know that he is not perfect and most likely, never will be. And that's okay. It is with this arrogance and humility that one wears Yohji Yamamoto's clothes.
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Some Yohji collaborations
Dr. Martens x Yohji Yamamoto
Mandarina Duck x Yohji Yamamoto
Hermes x Yohji Yamamoto
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Yohji on film and stage
Notebook on Cities & Clothes (directed by Wim Wenders)
costuming for "Brother" (directed by Takeshi "Beat" Kitano)
costuming for "Dolls" (directed by Takeshi "Beat" Kitano)
costuming for Tristan und Isolde (directed by Heiner Muller)
costuming for Elton John's "The Red Piano"
This is My Dream (directed by Theodore Stanley)
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Online stockists
Atelier New York
Barneys
Farfetch
Forward Forward by Revolve
Hervia Bazaar
Ikkon
Just One Eye & Just One Eye Accessories (Thanks for the links _yoo!)
Lazzari Online Store (seems to be accesories only at the moment, and they stock Y'x Mandarina Duck collabo stuff, but you never know)
LN-CC
Penelope (also online as Public Store Five)
Rakuten
Wrong Weather (solid selection of Y's clothing and shoes on deep discount. Not sure if stock will be updated with new season and/or mainline pieces though)
Yoox
Auction Sites
Yahoo Japan auctions
eBay
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Codes for various seasons.
HB -- SS 95, SS 00, AW 06, SS12
HC -- SS 99, AW10
HE -- AW 95, SS 02, AW 08
HF -- SS 96
HG -- AW 96
HI -- AW 97
** -- SS 98, AW 04, SS 10
HM -- AW 02, SS 08
HN -- AW 99, AW 05
HO - SS 93, SS 11
HP - AW 93, AW 11
HQ -- SS 03
HR -- SS 06
HS -- AW92
HT -- SS 94, AW 00, SS 07
HU -- SS97, AW 03
HV -- AW 94, AW 01, SS 09
HX -- SS 01, AW 07
HY -- AW 98, SS 05
HZ -- SS 04, AW 09
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Sizing advice
Please bear in mind that the sizing information below is strictly a guide and that as always, getting measurements or trying on the items themselves is the only way to know with any sort of accuracy whether a piece is going to work for you.
Older Yohji pieces were sized with the typical S/M/L labels. The more recent collections use a numbering system with 1 being the equivalent of XS/44, 2 - S/46, 3 - M/48, 4 - L/50, 5 - XL/52...With the FW11 season, stores in the US and EU have gotten items in sizes 1, 3 and 5 with 1 being the rough equivalent of 1 and 2, 3 being the rough equivalent of 3 and 4 and 5 being approximately 5 and 6. It was only for some tailored items like shirts and jackets from what I understand, and not across board.
Asobu on Yohji sizing -
The term one-sized gets thrown around a lot but in fact very few pieces in a certain collection are produced in just one size, if any at all. The garments that are generally one sized are knits and t-shirts, those are often just produced in sz 3 (roughly equivalent to M/48). Some pants are one sized but those are quite rare, at least for the last 10 years. The ss08 ronin pants with the button construction is the one pair I can think of from the last few years, though there might be a few others I've missed. In fact, he's done several pants with clever button construction on the waistband that still came in different sizes (for instance aw04).
However, post-03/04 the pants are cut quite generously in the waist. It's not totally uncommon for pants in sz 3 to measure 18"+ in the waist - though there are exceptions of course - they are indeed meant to be bunched up with a belt or worn with suspenders, and they do fall correctly on the body. The specific pair (I think) you refer to definitely came in sz 2 and 4 as well, though it should be mentioned that those are some of the widest pants he's cut during the last few years and might not be the best place to start if you've never worn Yohji before. The typical YYPH cut is the wide pants with drawstring in the waist, those often come in the regular size set 2/3/4 and are huge in the waist. The ones on LN-CC this season measured 43" in the waist for a sz 2 (S).
About sizing in general:
The regular size run is 2, 3 and 4. This aw11 season they changed it up a bit and started selling 1 (XS) in the west, before those was usually only sold in japan in very small numbers. There are also sz 5 and 6 for the western market (not sold in Japan), those are also quite rare. A sz 6 is never ever a one size item though I've seen some sellers claim them to be.
A good way to approach Yohji sizing is to think about height rather than width, if you're tall you should probably size up one so the inseam is long enough, no matter how the waist is cut. This goes for jackets as well, you get the intended balance in length and sleeve length. It's a common "mistake" to size down because the measurements look big, remember that it's often better to size up than down when it comes to Yohji.
Also note that this refers to the mainline, the Y's pants are often cut considerably slimmer in the waist (with exceptions as always).
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My Dear Bomb Preview PDF
Yohji Yamamoto - Processes and techniques via V&A
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RECENT EDIT (23/06/2012) - List of Runway photos and videos posted in the thread listed here for easier browsing.
Runway shots
Various photos from older YYPH seasons 1984 - 1999 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1560_30#post_5546010
Random runway photos between '89 - '94 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/450_30#post_5223611
YY S/S 1990 "Pina" collection a few pics - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5204824
YYPH A/W 1995, S/S1996, A/W1996 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/480_30#post_5234443
YY A/W 1996 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/120_30#post_5101486
YYPH S/S 1998 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1290_30#post_5497152
YYPH S/S 2001 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/930_30#post_5366697
YYPH S/S 2002 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5172040
YY S/S 2002 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/450_30#post_5223791
YYPH A/W 2003 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5195337
YYPH S/S 2004 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/120_30#post_5100157
YY A/W 2004 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/540_30#post_5243401
YY A/W 2004 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1200_30#post_5471152
Y-3 S/S 2005 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1260_30#post_5497035
YYPH A/W 2006 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1050_30#post_5434084
YYPH A/W 2007 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/780_30#post_5330745
YYPH S/S 2008 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/750_30#post_5330032
YYPH THE MEN 4.1.2010 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/300_30#post_5152105
YYPH S/S 2012 & F/W 2011 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5070857
Y's S/S 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/930_30#post_5354666
YYPH A/W 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/240_30#post_5127741
YY A/W 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/540_30#post_5254061
YYPH S/S 2013 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1650_30#post_5555804
Videos
A Notebook on Cities & Clothes (full film on YouTube!) - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5071554
Yohji lookbooks between 83 & 96 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1560_30#post_5547833
COMING SOON Promotional Videos - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/60_30#post_5083953
Diane Pernet Interview - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5071076
SHOWStudio: In conversation with Yohji Yamamoto - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5076099
Yohji Yamamoto interview at V&A - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/2100_30#post_5605907
London College of Fashion Interview - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/270_30#post_5150069
Y-3 S/S 2012 Campaign Video - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5195302
Yohji Yamamoto 30th Anniversary Party clip - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/30_30#post_5077052
YY 1981 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5189895
YY A/W 1984 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/570_30#post_5273501
YY S/S 1989, YY A/W 1989, YY S/S 1990, YY A/W 1990 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1350_30#post_5512119
YY A/W 1994 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/480_30#post_5229892
YY A/W 1995 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1080_30#post_5441275
YY S/S 1996 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1350_30#post_5512122
YY A/W 1996 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1560_30#post_5547857
YYPH A/W 1999 (Gypsy collection) - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/150_30#post_5104528
YYPH S/S 2000, F/W 2008, S/S 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5070950
YYPH S/S 2001 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/960_30#post_5366878
YYPH S/S 2003 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1470_30#post_5530607
Y's in Beijing A/W 2008, Y's for men Pitti Uomo A/W 2005, Short snippet of Max Vadukul shooting the Y's 2000 catalogue in Tokyo, Y's for men A/W 2004, Y's for men S/S 2004, Y's women A/W 2004, Y's for men S/S 2005, Y's for women S/S 2005 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1740_30#post_5565941
YYPH S/S 2006 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5203948
YYPH A/W 2007 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/780_30#post_5330745
YYPH A/W 2009 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1080_30#post_5439205
YYPH THE MEN 4.1.2010 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/300_30#post_5150521
YY A/W 2011 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/540_30#post_5242347
Y-3 S/S 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/30_30#post_5078217
YY S/S 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/300_30#post_5150521
YYPH A/W 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/240_30#post_5137269 and http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1080_30#post_5440276
YY A/W 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/540_30#post_5254464
YYPH S/S 2013 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1920_30#post_5585814
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