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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Guy Burgess

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Awesome, looking forward to reading stuff in this thread. Unfortunately I don't have much to add.
 

robinsongreen68

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yeah fantastic thread, thanks ivwri. i've always liked yohji but didn't know where to begin.
 
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Master Milano

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Are any of his proteges any good and do they make men's clothing?
 
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NaTionS

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Great read, I just read/watched every interview in this thread. The Yohji aesthetic is really fascinating and is something I'd love to experiment with if only the prices weren't so high.
 

sipang

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GoldenTribe

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Kiryuyrik (pronounced: Kiryu-Kiryu)


I was going to post "that doesn't make a bloody bit of sense phonetically" until I (fortunately) realized the second kiryu is backwards.
 
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ffatt

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Here's a nice interview with Diane Pernet that I quite like because of the way Yohji describes his brand -


I feel this way myself...have ignored YY for years in favour of others. Now, I feel a natural affinity for some reason.
 

Ivwri

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Well, looks like I get to do some posting after all!

"Like Finding A Lost Wedding Ring" Yohji Yamamoto in conversation with Ligaya Salazar. Click to make bigger.











One of Yohji's most famous collections - Women's Spring 1999 (The Wedding Collection)

Part 1
[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

Part 2
[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

Part 3
[VIDEO][/VIDEO]
 

Ivwri

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Yohji Yamamoto 30th Anniversary video. The music is the same as that used for the FW11 Pour Homme collection. It's by Fink and is called "If Only".

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[VIDEO][/VIDEO]​




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Some books on/by/about Yohji. I have personally read and own "My Dear Bomb", Rewind/Forward and "Talking To Myself" from this list (expecting the memoirs and the ligaya salazar one later on this month though :slayer:) and would recommend them without any hesitation at all. Excellent insights into the mind of the man himself and some really nice photos and sketches in "Talking to Myself". Rewind/Forward has some truly breathtaking images from clothes and collections throughout a good span of Yohji's career and is definitely worth owning. Including a video of it to give a small preview :).




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On working with Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto -
Horihata is unwavering in his admiration of Kawakubo, yet admits that his experience there was “exhausting” and “very, very stressful.” “We had to make clothes again and again—make and destroy, make and destroy,” he recalls. “We needed to make, for example, one skirt 10 times.” He even likens her studio—with its long hours, utter silence (“No chatting, just sound of paper or sewing machine”) and spare black decor (“Even the toilet is black”)—to a monastery.

Sekiguchi says that Yamamoto, in contrast, would occasionally break the quiet at his atelier by strumming a tune on the guitar. But the one sound you’d never hear there? The sharp click-clack of a pair of towering It shoes. “He doesn’t like the sound of high heels on the office wood floor,” explains Sekiguchi. In fact, Yamamoto famously loathes heels; he has made no secret of the many “scary” stiletto-shod prostitutes who occupied his childhood environs. Contrary to Stateside fashion norms, Yamamoto employees who wore heels to work had to change into flats once they hit the studio grounds.
via
 

Ivwri

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Thought I would put up some Y-3 stuff.

First up, Y-3 collection for SS2012. The womenswear overall was more interesting than the menwear, but there are some very nice pieces in there like the white and black shirt with the diagonal chest pocket or the translucent hooded jacket. Definitely going to be getting a few of these items next year.

Some of my favourite looks -



Video -


[VIDEO][/VIDEO]
 

GoldenTribe

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Does Yohji personally design the whole Y-3 line (including footwear)? I was annoyed to see his full name emblazoned on a pair of Y-3 sneakers (I took it to be some manner of aspirational branding), but maybe I shouldn't have been.

aNK0m.jpg


7TLSM.jpg

EDIT: added spoiler to save space
 
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Ivwri

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Does Yohji personally design the whole Y-3 line (including footwear)? I was annoyed to see his full name emblazoned on a pair of Y-3 sneakers (I took it to be some manner of aspirational branding), but maybe I shouldn't have been.


I don't actually know to be honest. The current creative director for Y-3 is a guy called Dirk Schonberger so I imagine that he has a pretty solid amount of input into the design process with Yohji having final say on what does and doesn't make the cut, but I don't know the actual relationship. With the financial crisis his company faced and the new investors, one can never know how much may be the new investors pushing Yohji to shill a little bit more to pay the bills.

Having said that, it seems likely that Yohji would be pretty hands-on with Y-3 as 1, he just seems like that sort of guy - not ready to just slap his name on something he had no input in creating and 2, the Y-3 documentary "This is my Dream" that just came out follows their preparations for the 2010 collection and I imagine quite a bit of it would have shown Yohji at work.


EDIT - Corrected the collection date to "2010"
 
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