Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[ExtremeMildness]

the product code is from AW 08.
As for the material, it appears to be a combination. On the label, it says the outer material is cotton, but another section is a wool/nylon blend.

cheers

Thanks for the confirmation on the season! Any idea which section is which? Is it like the outer vs. the lining?

 

[Parker]

Does anyone know if Yohji hats are sized? I've not seen any size tags on them and from online measurements, they kind of vary. I'd love to find a felt fedora someday (in a large size ;-/)

 

[peachfuzzmcgee]

Bringing this back from the grave to ask regarding the proper fit. Recently I bought a two piece two button suit that is absolutely stellar. I was told the inseam of the pants were 28 which I learned they are not, I was excited for a cropped trousers look but they pool pretty heavy. Would it go against the spirit of this if I cropped or hemmed them and roll them up a bit? Not only that but take the waist down from 35 to 31 that I am? I could bunch up the pants but creates a bit of a weird effect on my frame i feel. Suspenders are an option but limits the versatility I feel.

Also The suit jacket fits great, but the sleeves go to around the first joint in my thumb. Should I shorten it a bit or is that perfect? I see a lot of seam allowances and such on both the trousers and blazer for tailoring so Im always wondering if people here find tailoring it a bit is kinda blasphemous.

 

[Benesyed]

I think even if you dont bunch it bringing trousers down 4 sizes usually messes up alignment of pockets, messes with the seat, and in general is a risky move. Its better with yohji to just let things buch up. often times that is intended. It might just not be the right item for you.

 

[peachfuzzmcgee]

I think even if you dont bunch it bringing trousers down 4 sizes usually messes up alignment of pockets, messes with the seat, and in general is a risky move. Its better with yohji to just let things buch up. often times that is intended. It might just not be the right item for you.

I think I may play around with how I can wear it. I didnt spend too much on it, and I like it a bunch in a weird way so I just need to find a way to make it mine. Its a size 3 and I'm 6'2 and 160 pounds, I just need to drop my notions of how things should fit in a classical suiting sense. I think I look good in it, just gotta be less scared of how I will be perceived in it. This is my only suit, and I decided to go atypical because Yohji's style is so damn cool

 

[eloq]

heya,
been trying to track down the hakama ss12 belt in black or navy..wondering if any of you have one that you're willing to let go?!

 

[NycLondon]

X-posting from a thread I started that hasn't had any responses. I'm interested in the clothes yohji wears in Notebook on Cities and Clothes.

I love the clothes Yohji wears in this film. They're very understated and extremely refined, much like Yohji himself. I particularly love the way the loose tops and the high-waisted pants meet and the drape it produces over the belt. Can anyone give me any tips on how to put together fits like this? If you could link to similar fits and appropriate pieces that would be wonderful.

I've included some screenshots in the spoiler. A lot of the film is shot on a video recorder rather than a film camera, so the images are quite low-res. It works wonderfully in the film, but unfortunately doesn't translate well to still image.

Wenders says that he shot the documentary using 3 methods: 1. the new Sony video 8 digital camera; 2. Hand cranked film which are limited to 90 seconds (i.e. the opposite of the new digital method); 3. 35 mm film with his crew. I saw the film when it was released at the cinema, the mix of methods was evident, as Wenders intended. Some of the moments Wenders captures in the documentary are quite magical. I mention 2: Yamamoto spending 5 minutes signing a slate outside a new shop; and watching him slowly tear bits off a black dress during a design process to get "just the right tears". Unfortunately deconstruction has been thoughtlessly popularised with all those silly ripped jeans.

The clothes must basic Yamamoto, surely difficult to specify? I am not convinced he wears runway in his real life.

 

[wansui]

Wenders says that he shot the documentary using 3 methods: 1. the new Sony video 8 digital camera; 2. Hand cranked film which are limited to 90 seconds (i.e. the opposite of the new digital method); 3. 35 mm film with his crew. I saw the film when it was released at the cinema, the mix of methods was evident, as Wenders intended. Some of the moments Wenders captures in the documentary are quite magical. I mention 2: Yamamoto spending 5 minutes signing a slate outside a new shop; and watching him slowly tear bits off a black dress during a design process to get "just the right tears". Unfortunately deconstruction has been thoughtlessly popularised with all those silly ripped jeans.

The clothes must basic Yamamoto, surely difficult to specify? I am not convinced he wears runway in his real life.

I'd say the middle ground @Inter is looking for would probably be the defunct Y's for Men line. Could never go full hakama-Yohji (yet) and Y's for Men has been my go-to. Less flair but still good fabrics and details. Also less stressful on the bank account.

Spoiler: Shots

Y's campaign shot

My own bad fit pic

You could also achieve that same loose vibe by sizing up 1 with the Uniqlo U line, albeit with less high-quality fabrics. Also, not very many black options.

 

[NycLondon]

I caught the Yohji bug when I stumbled into a NYC store called Dear Rivington while on vacation a couple of weeks ago. What really caught my eye was the owner's Yohji pants: the drape and the flow were just incredible when he walked around the store and showed me stuff. BTW, if you are a fan of Yohji, you should totally check out the store: it stocks current and vintage Yohji and CdG, along with one-of-a-kinds and pieces made only for the Japanese market.

I thank you for bringing this shop to our attention. I visited this past weekend. I was told by the guys in the shop that everything I tried on was "fantastic" and "it was made for me", "fits me perfectly", was "so beautiful". Talk about the HARD sell!! The issue of size was the most annoying - I told them I am a size 3 Yohji (I have several), but no matter what the size was, it was perfect on me. Their prices are eye watering.

 

[wansui]

Thoughts on AW18?

 

[Tabooku]

Garbage photos... but all I could find.

https://nowfashion.com/yohji-yamamoto-menswear-fall-winter-2018-paris-23634

 

[wansui]

Yeah, those aren't particularly good shots. I liked the styling of the long coats as a toga/monk's robe.



Don't know if this is purely based on the collection, but I wish they would bring back a more diverse casting for the runway shows. The Men 4.1 was what really got me into Yohji first. Different energy.

 

[takashi78]

Does anyone own the New Era Yohji backpack?
Care to comment on the quality etc.?
Is it worth the premium it is commanding just for putting the Yohji brand on it?

 

[seismicweavw]

Looking to share a beautiful hakama patchwork cropped pants made of rayon in size 3 (one size fits all) that is up for grabs that is a Japan exclusive if memory serves me right, as well as some suspenders for yohji fans so hit me up if interested for more information.

 

[yunBW]

Anyone have any idea which season is this Yohji piece? It looks pretty interesting, just want to see how it was done on runway or know the season of this piece. Thanks