Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[add911_11]



Did I see fusing under the lapel canvas?

Interlining fusing is rather popularly used in all high end bespoke tailor operation. Sometimes the fabric will need this for better tailoring.

 

[jerrybrowne]



Interlining fusing is rather popularly used in all high end bespoke tailor operation. Sometimes the fabric will need this for better tailoring.

I can't tell if you are being serious.

 

[Fishball]



Interlining fusing is rather popularly used in all high end bespoke tailor operation. Sometimes the fabric will need this for better tailoring.

I don't know what you mean by "Interlining fusing," I don't know how popular they are in high end bespoke.
What I saw was a fusing cover the whole lapel, ahhhhh

 

[jerrybrowne]



I don't know what you mean by "Interlining fusing," I don't know how popular they are in high end bespoke.
What I saw was a fusing cover the whole lapel, ahhhhh

I would be pissed if there was fusing anywhere in my tailored garments. This would go double for that Breanish cloth. Using fusing on it would take away it's charm.

 

[add911_11]



I can't tell if you are being serious.

I am not joking. Usually heavier fabrics e.g. tweed, flannels, corduroy will not need it and have the body to be tailored. However, I believe lighter fabrics e.g. fresco or other under 9oz stuff will be beneficial to have the interfusing inserted.

Don't confused with general chest fusing and interlining fusing, the former is bad but the latter merely utilize the cloth. Using interlining does not mean the hand padded or zig-zag machined canvass will be taken away.

In terms of its popularity, if you look careful enough, I am sure one will be able to find examples on the famous websites.

The reason for using interlining fusing will keep the chest of the jacket in shape, it also makes handwork possible to do. I have a coat make without the interlining fusing and the chest 'sacks' after a short period of time.

 

[jerrybrowne]



I am not joking. Usually heavier fabrics e.g. tweed, flannels, corduroy will not need it and have the body to be tailored. However, I believe lighter fabrics e.g. fresco or other under 9oz stuff will be beneficial to have the interfusing inserted.

Don't confused with general chest fusing and interlining fusing, the former is bad but the latter merely utilize the cloth. Using interlining does not mean the hand padded or zig-zag machined canvass will be taken away.

In terms of its popularity, if you look careful enough, I am sure one will be able to find examples on the famous websites.

The reason for using interlining fusing will keep the chest of the jacket in shape, it also makes handwork possible to do. I have a coat make without the interlining fusing and the chest 'sacks' after a short period of time.

Hmm. I will have to ask again to be certain. I once asked my cutter (from one of the big SR firms) if there was fusing in the collar of one of my suits b/c it was very flat. He told me that it was just over pressed, but looked at me as if I had kicked him, his dog, and his whole family in the teeth, then told me that they do not use fusing anywhere.

Now I'm sure he doesn't actually do the tailoring, because he told me so. But I doubt he would get this detail incorrect.

 

[Maccimus]

I recall there is a post in Jefferyd's blog shows some fusing in a hi-end bespoke jacket...My understanding is that it is very possible some tailors use fusing in un-noticed parts, eg pockets, to save time. It completely depends on the integrity of the tailor, as very few of clients actually check the inside work.

 

[add911_11]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Hmm. I will have to ask again to be certain. I once asked my cutter (from one of the big SR firms) if there was fusing in the collar of one of my suits b/c it was very flat. He told me that it was just over pressed, but looked at me as if I had kicked him, his dog, and his whole family in the teeth, then told me that they do not use fusing anywhere.

Now I'm sure he doesn't actually do the tailoring, because he told me so. But I doubt he would get this detail incorrect.

Haha seriously it is normal and does not mean a coat is inferior because interlining fusing is used. Sometimes the fabrics just call for one, especially if you are looking for a clean not over 'floaty' chest.

The 'sackiness' of the chest really shows when hang on the hanger. The sackiness will be gone if it is cut very close and lean to your body.

 

[jerrybrowne]



I recall there is a post in Jefferyd's blog shows some fusing in a hi-end bespoke jacket...My understanding is that it is very possible some tailors use fusing in un-noticed parts, eg pockets, to save time. It completely depends on the integrity of the tailor, as very few of clients actually check the inside work.

I'm going to rip open one of my garments tonight to make sure.

 

[add911_11]



I recall there is a post in Jefferyd's blog shows some fusing in a hi-end bespoke jacket...My understanding is that it is very possible some tailors use fusing in un-noticed parts, eg pockets, to save time. It completely depends on the integrity of the tailor, as very few of clients actually check the inside work.

Those fusing can be done via a)pure fusing or b)interlining fusing with canvass or c)pure canvass

Option b and c are ok.

That's how I understand it.

 

[tcbrgs]

These last few posts here are painful... I have no idea what add911_11 is talking about, fusing is an interlining... and pretty much all fused suits still have some sort of floating canvas in the chest area...

Fusing will be used on high end garments on the finer cloths, in key areas, like ends of collars and lapels, just like on a shirt, to achieve a crisper finish. It just simply produces a cleaner garment, the fronts and most other places will remain unfused, but with ultra fine/light cloths, you will achieve a better results with small lightweight fusing being used in key areas. If it wasn't used on say a 7oz super 180s you are more than likely going to see pucker/bubbling in certain places.

The problem is when some tailors skin/fuse the fronts of the lightweight cloth, and then fully canvas it. The fusing of the fronts is unneeded, it just helps unskilled tailors deal with the fine, lightweight cloths, as it makes the cloth heavier, gives it more body/stiffness. I'd avoid these tailors.

 

[Despos]

The unfunded liability above just got funded. Will be laying my hands on it this weekend. In the meantime some pictures from my tailor.

Did I see fusing under the lapel canvas?

It is possible this black fabric is fusing but it could be pocketing material. We sometimes put a piece of pocketing cut on the bias between the cloth and the hymo to add body to the lapel.

Is this tailor left handed?

 

[add911_11]



These last few posts here are painful... I have no idea what add911_11 is talking about, fusing is an interlining... and pretty much all fused suits still have some sort of floating canvas in the chest area...

Fusing will be used on high end garments on the finer cloths, in key areas, like ends of collars and lapels, just like on a shirt, to achieve a crisper finish. It just simply produces a cleaner garment, the fronts and most other places will remain unfused, but with ultra fine/light cloths, you will achieve a better results with small lightweight fusing being used in key areas. If it wasn't used on say a 7oz super 180s you are more than likely going to see pucker/bubbling in certain places.

The problem is when some tailors skin/fuse the fronts of the lightweight cloth, and then fully canvas it. The fusing of the fronts is unneeded, it just helps unskilled tailors deal with the fine, lightweight cloths, as it makes the cloth heavier, gives it more body/stiffness. I'd avoid these tailors.

You do realize there is discrepancy in your post?

I can add some picture to explain my point but I am afraid to do so, as this may break the iGent myth.

 

[tcbrgs]

You do realize there is discrepancy in your post?

I can add some picture to explain my point but I am afraid to do so, as this may break the iGent myth.

What discrepancy?

 

[C&A]



It is possible this black fabric is fusing but it could be pocketing material. We sometimes put a piece of pocketing cut on the bias between the cloth and the hymo to add body to the lapel.

Is this tailor left handed?

I have just sent him en email asking what the black material actually is.

Come and think of it, I never paid any attention to whether he was right or left handed. Is there something in the way he has cut the cloth that makes you think he is left handed ?