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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    I like it.
     
  2. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Seems like a suiting cloth to me.
     
  4. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    You think it would be inappropriate? It's just I was ordering a bunch for suits and thought I'd tack it on, and it's a lot cheaper than other alternatives. I'm not sure what books to look at for SCs actually since I've mostly been getting suits made.
     
  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    That made-up coat looks quite a bit darker than the cream/brown swatch.

    Both look like suiting to me as well. The scale of the mini-houndstooth feels a bit small for a sport coat project. Ok for a blazersuit though
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014
  6. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Yeah I do want it closer to the color of the picture, but I thought it's okay anyway. Any books you'd recommend me to look at? I've mostly browsed Harrisons and Dugdale. Perhaps I'll just pick something at the tailor instead of CMT.

    Actually the harrisons website don't show prices do they? Anyway I can get an approximate price? I know I can get their stuff in HK.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014
  7. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Marling and Evans have a few nice houndstooth jacketings.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    They do look quite nice, but do they have prices online? I'm leaving soon and don't have the chance to really shop around. The ability to look up the prices online is strangely enough a pretty big reason why I've been mostly looking at dugdale.
     
  9. burghler

    burghler Senior member

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    Try contacting Merino Bros for prices on Harrisons
     
  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    I have a black and white houndstooth odd jacket made from a Bower Roebuck worsted cashmere fabric. Loved the swatch and thought it looked absolutely stunning, but it just isn't quite right for an odd jacket. Scale is maybe a tiny bit larger than yours. I do wear it from time to time but it is not nearly as useful as I hoped for. Sometimes the transition from swatch to jacket doesn't go smoothly. Picture of the fabric is below.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks.

    I guess I'm weird to think this but I actually kind of prefer smaller scale for houndstooth in general larger ones when you can make up the shape well looks really weird to me, but probably I should just not get in in houndstooth.

    Do you know how much the harrison's moonbeam book usually go for per meter? Some of the prices I've come across makes me think they're generally quite a bit more expensive than dugdale.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014
  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Is this a hopsack?

    How do you all feel about a sportcoat done in grey hopsack?

    This one is by Caruso. Great quality and cut. Soft shoulders w/ path pockets and a 3-roll-2 stance

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    I think it's acceptable, but low on anyone's priority list.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. gopherblue

    gopherblue Senior member

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    It definitely wears warmer than its weight. I wear it end of autumn thru early spring. I think it drapes well, but it is a soft fabric. It is no tweed. That said, my jacket is beautiful and holds its tailoring and has been wearing very well.
     
  15. Penfold

    Penfold Senior member

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    After wandering into the office of Hong Kong's wholesaler for Thomas Mason at lunchtime I now find myself the proud owner of five 2.3 yard x 59" lengths of shirting fabric - three cotton on the bottom row and two linen on the top. The cream is actually cream, not a bilious yellow - I checked.

    [​IMG]




    They're nothing too fancy in terms of thread counts but at a cost of about $20 US per yard for cotton and $28 US for the linen it seemed like good value to take forward for CMT somewhere in HK.

    I was wondering whether to throw each length into the washing machine but I see from page 406 of this thread that that might involve some risk to the useability of the cloth and/or more ironing than I am prepared to contemplate, (unless I take them to be cleaned as bedlinen perhaps). Rather than let my shirtmaker just guess at shrinkage allowance though I'd like to ask:

    Does anyone have experience of the shrinkage factor of Thomas Mason shirting in the cheaper cottons or in linen that they can kindly share?

    Also, gosh but isn't 2.3 yards at 59" a lot of cloth for a shirt? The bed in this photo is 180cm by 200cm...

    [​IMG]
     
  16. blueandwhite

    blueandwhite Member

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    I could do with 1.6 yards. Then again I'm ~1.7m tall.

    Mind disclosing the contact for this wholesaler? Over PM if you prefer so.
     
  17. Penfold

    Penfold Senior member

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    My shirtmaker said 72 inches (i.e. two yards) when I asked him last time but not sure what width that related to. Guess if there is some excess I know where to buy more to finish the job... or get some kind of Frankenshirt made up!

    PM sent.
     
  18. blueandwhite

    blueandwhite Member

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    It's 1.5m for a 60 inch fabric and 2.3m for a 36 inch fabric for me. Perhaps that might be your case as well.

    In any case, excess is better than shortage of cloth I guess!
     
  19. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    I have something like this made into a DB suit, I'm still not sure how to wear it best. It's a heavy fabric so I don't need to think about it until the weather cools.
     
  20. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    2 yards is plenty for normal size.
    my cutter can get a shirt out of 1.5 for smaller customers and stripes still match.

    if the shirtmaker is using automated cutting systems, they might need more fabric then usual.

    but if something is damaged in making then you might have to go to the trouble of buying an extra yard later on.

    on pre washing fabric.
    you would have to tell the shirtmaker that you have pre-washed the fabric.
    otherwise, they will still add in shrinkage allowance
    collars will still shrink unless the shirtmaker has non shrinking fusible(yes it exists, i have not used it)
    the linen is the only fabric of the group that i would wash and dry. linen usually has greater shrinkage. then cotton.
     
    2 people like this.

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