Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[artyom.le.gall]

Curious what do you mean by "there's no trade off?" And what more do you feel can be said about the color, texture, and pattern matching in that video?

I am glad you asked. There's no tradeoffs in the sense the budget is so abundant that practically there's no budget consideration and he's free to choose whatever w/o real consideration how he may rotate the jackets, how they would match with knitwear, etc. Its an exercise w/o any practical implementation to the mere customer (that is unless the customer is the Sultan of Brunei). A real exercise would be pick out of 10 books cloth for 2 jackets, 3 trousers, 2 knitwear, 2 shirts, and most important maximize the number of permutations i.e. possible sets. That would be far more interesting & demonstrate real tradeoffs as for choosing patterns, color, fabric & weight.

I think the colour & texture matching part was good; yet but in context of the above would require far more consideration e.g. how should it impact top vs. bottom matching and selection, etc..

 

[jonathanS]

Mistral is about 16oz, breathes well, drapes well, lovely color.

It has a very wide weave, more blazer-ish than many books' hopsacks. That said, it works well as a suit.

Do we think the mistral is better as a jacket or suit? I originally was thinking db suit. But y’all bring up an interesting idea about getting a jacket length for a sports coat or blazer that can be worn in the summers (quarter or unlined) and then dressed up for fall winter with an overcoat when outside. Thoughts?

 

[Concordia]

I made up the original navy as a blazer. Could have done it as a suit, but for whatever reason I wasn't making navy suits at the time. I can't see why it couldn't be a good DB suit.

 

[dieworkwear]

I am glad you asked. There's no tradeoffs in the sense the budget is so abundant that practically there's no budget consideration and he's free to choose whatever w/o real consideration how he may rotate the jackets, how they would match with knitwear, etc. Its an exercise w/o any practical implementation to the mere customer (that is unless the customer is the Sultan of Brunei). A real exercise would be pick out of 10 books cloth for 2 jackets, 3 trousers, 2 knitwear, 2 shirts, and most important maximize the number of permutations i.e. possible sets. That would be far more interesting & demonstrate real tradeoffs as for choosing patterns, color, fabric & weight.

I think the colour & texture matching part was good; yet but in context of the above would require far more consideration e.g. how should it impact top vs. bottom matching and selection, etc..

I think I see what you mean.

One of the things that threw me off about the video is that the choices didn't seem like a beginner's wardrobe at all, but a rather advanced wardrobe. If this was for someone who's just starting to build a tailored wardrobe, I think I would recommend other things. But as an exercise for what someone might want to get this fall, assuming they already have a lot of clothing, this seemed much more interesting (or, perhaps, just what Mark would choose for himself, as he caveats).

I was thankful to not be taken through the usual "you need a navy sport coat," "now you need some grey pants," "next, you want some light blue shirts" tutorial. But I can also see how this might be less useful if you're actually looking for that kind of capsule wardrobe content.

 

[JHWilliams]

Do we think the mistral is better as a jacket or suit? I originally was thinking db suit. But y’all bring up an interesting idea about getting a jacket length for a sports coat or blazer that can be worn in the summers (quarter or unlined) and then dressed up for fall winter with an overcoat when outside. Thoughts?

Many LL members have posted pictures of mistral suits. They look beautiful.
I have always had blazers in Hopsack cloth (so when I think of Hopsack, my brain immediately goes to blazer).

 

[artyom.le.gall]

I think I see what you mean.

One of the things that threw me off about the video is that the choices didn't seem like a beginner's wardrobe at all, but a rather advanced wardrobe. If this was for someone who's just starting to build a tailored wardrobe, I think I would recommend other things. But as an exercise for what someone might want to get this fall, assuming they already have a lot of clothing, this seemed much more interesting (or, perhaps, just what Mark would choose for himself, as he caveats).

I was thankful to not be taken through the usual "you need a navy sport coat," "now you need some grey pants," "next, you want some light blue shirts" tutorial. But I can also see how this might be less useful if you're actually looking for that kind of capsule wardrobe content.

I can't agree more! that said, I personally feel/hope/think that on the spectrum between one's starter selection to the seasonal salesperson garment extravaganza, there's exist multitude of points likely more valid to us mere mortals. Or maybe there isn't ?!?

 

[dieworkwear]

I can't agree more! that said, I personally feel/hope/think that on the spectrum between one's starter selection to the seasonal salesperson garment extravaganza, there's exist multitude of points likely more valid to us mere mortals. Or maybe there isn't ?!?

True! Prob a difficult needle to thread, but agree that would be useful.

 

[jonathanS]

I made up the original navy as a blazer. Could have done it as a suit, but for whatever reason I wasn't making navy suits at the time. I can't see why it couldn't be a good DB suit.

Many LL members have posted pictures of mistral suits. They look beautiful.
I have always had blazers in Hopsack cloth (so when I think of Hopsack, my brain immediately goes to blazer).

Or perhaps do a suit length in the navy & a jacket length in the raf blue? (Or vise versa). Not sure. I have the ultimate navy blazer jacketing fabric waiting to go. But a navy jacket hopsack would be more versatile in the summer. Is the fabric closer to a hopsack than a Fox air type fabric? (I was thinking it’d be closer to a fresco.)

 

[Concordia]

It is a hopsack, and not at all coarse like Fresco.

 

[Wren]

I can't agree more! that said, I personally feel/hope/think that on the spectrum between one's starter selection to the seasonal salesperson garment extravaganza, there's exist multitude of points likely more valid to us mere mortals. Or maybe there isn't ?!?

Nice discussion going on here! When you are building a bespoke capsule wardrobe for a particular person, it needs to consider the focal person. I think that's why Mark did it from his perspective, as an example rather than a guide. For something that is geared towards general customers, I think the videos on their seasonal collections are much better, because those contain pieces that are designed for the average customer in mind.

Like dieworkwear, I was very glad they didn't go with the usual navy blazer, grey trousers, this-will-serve-you-well-in-a-million-situations video.

 

[WhereNext]

Does anyone have any experience with the H&S Airesco book? I'm thinking more about the 3-ply (I think it's about 12 ounce) side of the bunch for some trousers and/or a casual suit, but I'm open to any feedback on the book in general (there are a few weights and some 4-ply stuff, as well) anyone's got!
I can get swatches down the road, but just curious about how it works in practice or just other insights from others.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might have.

 

[rjkabk]

Does anyone have any experience with the H&S Airesco book? I'm thinking more about the 3-ply (I think it's about 12 ounce) side of the bunch for some trousers and/or a casual suit, but I'm open to any feedback on the book in general (there are a few weights and some 4-ply stuff, as well) anyone's got!
I can get swatches down the road, but just curious about how it works in practice or just other insights from others.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might have.

Can’t help you out but that is also a book I am interested in. Considering the 12 oz navy for business suit. So I would also like any opinions from those with experience...

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

Does anyone here know how to access open London Lounge subscriptions or how to check on them?

 

[The Chai]

Does anyone here know how to access open London Lounge subscriptions or how to check on them?

You gotta register an account with the London lounge website forum then place an expression of interest in the cloth subscription

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

You gotta register an account with the London lounge website forum then place an expression of interest in the cloth subscription

I did that, but I have been waiting to get approved for about 2 weeks now.
Anybody know how to get that done?