TWEEDS AND JACKETS MEGATHREAD! SOME NWT! VINTAGE Custom-Made Harris & RARE Orkney Tweeds, Plaids & T

[tweedydon]

I've consolidated my remaining jackets into this single thread, for ease of browsing. All were due to be bumped, and all appear here with price drops.

As always, FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING WITHIN THE CONUS; International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost.

Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

Please PM with interest and offers!
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1) GORGEOUS CLASSIC Blackwatch Jacket

This is absolutely beautiful! A wonderful example of the classic Ivy Winter and Fall staple, the Blackwatch jacket, this beauty is half-canvassed and half-lined. The colouring of the tartan is wonderfully dark and rich, and its complemented beautifully by the dark honey buttons, which are almost certainly real horn. This is subtly darted, has a two-button front, and four button cuffs. It has a single centre vent, and was Union Made in the USA. It has very natural shoulders. This is an absolutely beautiful jacket, in excellent condition--although it does have literally three or four stitches loose at the lining at the vent. This is one of the nicest Blackwatch jackets I've seen, in a very desirable size--and the buttons are a very nice touch, too!

Asking just $49, or offer, boxed and shipped.

Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30 1/2






2) GORGEOUS Rustic Blanket Plaid Jacket--bellows pockets, elbow patches, the works!

This is absolutely wonderful! Union Made in the USA for R. J. Boggs of Boston, this wonderful jacket is cut from beautifully heavy, thick, warm cloth. The rustic plaid is a wonderful heathery medley of burntberry red, dark tannish cream, and slate grey--perfect for a cold walk on a crisp winter's day with a dog, and a fire waiting at home! This comes with elbow patches, and leather-covered, metal-shanked buttons. The pockets are flapped with button-through closures, and are also bellowed, perfect for carrying shotgun shells, pinecones, or dog treats. The jacket has a single centre vent, and is half-lined in what appears to be lightweight cotton drill, with edging. It has lovely natural shoulders. Since this is a vintage piece, and I only use the term "excellent" for pieces that could pass as being bough new recently, this is in Very Good/Excellent condition--conservatively! It would be a wonderful companion for many years to come!

Asking just $42, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30 1/2






3) Hitching Post of Princeton NJ, 3/2 tweed sack in Autumnal/Winter Plaid!

The Hitching Post of Palmer Sq., Princeton started life as a "speciality shop for husky boys" between the sizes of 8 and 20 under "The Prep Shop Management"--although which of the prep. schools near Princeton ran this I've no idea. Commercial pressures being what they are, by the early 1960s THP had expanded its range of clothing to be a men's clothier, although it still focussed on boy's sizing. Alas, there weren't that many "husky" boys in Princeton, nor was it able to compete with the more established clothiers such as Langrock, Hilton, and The English Shop, and so THP didn't last as long as it might have done.

That's a shame, though, if this jacket is anything to go by. Dating from when THS carried menswear as well as boy's sizes, this lovely jacket is a bold yet conservative plaid that's a medley of forest greens, burnished chestnut, and tan background. Half-canvassed and half-lined, this is a lovely 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and has a single centre vent. It has a tiny start of a fray by the corner of one interior pocket, and could use a few stitches at the lining at the vent, and so it's in iverlal Very Good condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, for this little corner of Americana!

Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeve: 24 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 29






4) GORGEOUS Plaid Jacket from Austin Reed

The colourway of this jacket is simply wonderful--a lovely lighter navy blue and dark red base plaid, with subtle green accents and cream overcheck striping. The hand is lovely and warm, and the cut is terrific. This is another perfect Fall and Winter jacket! This jacket is also half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It features three button cuffs, and a standard two-button front. The buttons are leather covered and metal shanked football buttons. It is subtly darted, and was Union made in the USA. This is truly a delicious jacket, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $39, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 3./4
Length: 32






5) LOVELY Brooks Brothers 3/2 Sack in Autumnal/WInter Plaid

SOLD

This a lovely jacket! Cut as a classic 3/2 sack, this beauty from Brooks Brothers has a wonderful patterning and colourway; a beautiful plaid in forest greens and tans, with an accent overcheck in bark and peach. This is truly beautiful jacket! It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features the classic two button cuffs. Although it has no flaws, it is an older piece, and so it's in Very Good condition. It was Union made in the USA--back when almost everything was!

Asking just $35, or offer.

Tagged a 43L, this measures:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 32






6) Recent Brooks Brothers Guncheck in Lambswool.

SOLD

This is lovely! A recent offering from Brooks Brothers--yet one of those that was Union made in the USA--this lovely jacket features a gunchecking in blue, rust, and black on a dark tan background. Cut from lovely soft and lighter-weight lambswool, this jacket has a wonderful hand and drape. It's half-canvassed and fully lined, and features a contemporary two button front and three button cuffs. It has a single centre vent, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $40, or offer.

Tagged a 45R, this measures:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 24 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 31








7) Lovely Classic Houndstooth Tweed

This is lovely! Cut from a classic houndstooth tweed in a medly of moss green, chestnut brown, and peat black on a dark taupe background, this jacket has a contemporary two button front and subtle darts. It has three button cuffs, and all the buttons are classic football style with metal shanks. This appears to be half-canvassed, and is half-lined. It has a single centre vent. It's in excellent condition.

Asking just $30, or offer.

Tagged a 39R, this measures:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 29 3/4








8) Lovely Country Tweed--with throat latch, patch pockets, and elbow patches!

This is lovely! Cut from a lovely slate blue chevron weave tweed, this gem of a jacket features everything that you'd want in an everyday country tweed--suede elbow patches, a fully functional and adjustable throat latch, three patch pockets, and leather-covered, metal-shanked buttons. It also has a bi-swing back for ease of movement. It has a two button front and three button cuffs. It's half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a single centre vent. It was made in the USA.

It does have some minor rumpling from storage, a small stain on the top of the right-hand elbow patch, and some minor lining sag at the hem, but these are all minor and readily overlooked in a weekend tweed. Because they are there, though, this is in very Good condition, and hence is just $22, or offer.

Measurements:

Tagged 43R, but closer to 43S.

Chest: 23
Sleeve: 22 3/4 (+1)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 28 1/2








9) GORGEOUS Lambswool Hickey-Freeman in Dark Houndstooth, for Saks Fifth Avenue.

This is absolutely gorgeous! Cut from a beautiful, dark houndstooth cloth, the colourway of this beautiful jacket by Hickey-Freeman is a wonderful medley of forest green, peat black, and burnished conker brown, on a background of moss green. The cloth is lambswool, and has a wonderful hand and drape. This lovely jacket is fully canvassed, and fully lined, as befits its status as an example of Hickey-Freeman's "Boardroom" line. It has four button cuffs, and a single centre vent. It was Union made in the USA expressly for Saks of Fifth Avenue. This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $39, or offer.

Tagged a 46R, this measures:

Chest: 23 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 21
Length: 31








10) GORGEOUS Kilgour, French, and Stanbury Barleycorn tweed

SOLD

This is absolutely beautiful! Cut from a stunningly beautiful barleycorn tweed, the colourway and patterning of this jacket is wonderful--from a distance, it appears to be a standard grey-blue herringbone, albeit one with no clear boning definition; when you get closer, it reveals as a barleycorn with beautiful flecks of forest green, sky blue, berry red, cream, and pumpkin orange throughout. This is a really, really lovely tweed, which is beautifully complemented by the use of leather wrap buttons in burnished chestnut brown on metal shanks--more elegant and far more rare than their football cousins.

The colourway and patterning of this jacket are fully justified by its construction. Fully canvassed and fully lined, this has a contemporary two button front and four button cuffs. The interior pockets all feature tab and button latches for security--a very nice touch and indicative of the attention to detail in this jacket. This jacket was made by Kilgour, French, and Stanbury, the British Savile Row tailoring firm, for Barney's of New York. This jacket was Union made in the USA, and has a single centre vent.

This is in absolutely excellent condition, and hence is a steal at just $49, or offer--a steal for a jacket of this quality in this highly desirable size!

Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/8
Length: 30 1/2







11) Deansgate tweed jacket

A very nice tweed in herringbone and barleycorn from Deansgate, this is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has four button cuffs and a two button closure, with subtle darts. It has a single centre vent. It was Union Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $22, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 30 3/4






12) Made in the USA Cricketeer Tweed

Like the Anderson and Little, above, this is another lovely staple tweed from one of the mainstay American makers. Cut from a light grey herringbone tweed with vertical blue striping throughout, this is half-canvassed and half-lined. It features neat flat buttons--two on the front and three at the cuffs--and a single centre vent.

It does have two minor issues: The buttons have some patina, and there are three small mis-weave holes on the left-hand sleeve where the warp and weft failed to meet, the worst of which is shown. As such, this jacket is in Very Good condition, and so is just $19, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 23 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 31






13) BEAUTIFUL Southwick Houndstooth 3/2 sack tweed with overcheck

This is beautiful! made by Southwick, one of the classic tradly American clothiers, this lovely tweed is a classic 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll. It is cut from a lovely dark houndstooth tweed that's a medley of very dark moss green on a dark taupe base, with an overcheck of autumnal bracken. This beautiful jacket is half-canvassed and fully lined; it has a single centre vent and three button cuffs. It was, of course, Made in the USA. Apart from some minor smudges in the lining, this is in excellent condition, and is a bargain at just $39, or offer.

Tagged a 43Tall, this measures:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 (+ 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/8
Length: 32 1/2






14) STUNNING plaid tweed from Browning of Fifth Avenue

This is absolutely gorgeous! The plaid of this jacket is wonderful, a combination of slate grey, mustard yellow, pale lichen green on an applecore tan base, it's an once bold and very very classic--a true Trad tweed! Made for Browning of Fifth Avenue--one of the trio of menswear stores that also included Rogers Peet and Wallach's, and that served as the anchors of the more southerly stretch of Fifth Avenue, serving the office workers of Midtown who commuted in from Connecticut and the nicer parts of New Jersey--this jacket is fully lined. It has two button cuffs, subtle darts, and hacking pockets; it also features a twin vent. It was, of course, made in the USA.

This jacket does have some minor age stains in the lining at the armholes, and it *might* have a minor mark on the lapel--this is very hard to see, and might simply be part of the pattern anyway. Given these issues--or, possibly, issue--this is a bargain at just $24, or offer, boxed and shipped in the CONUS.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
length: 31 3/4



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15) GORGEOUS Harris Tweed by PBM for diTorio's of Pennington, NJ!

I HAVE NO IDEA WHY THIS HASN"T BEEN CLAIMED--it's GORGEOUS!

This is gorgeous--and hits a trifecta of desirability! First, this is a beautiful herringbone Harris Tweed of just the right weight--not too heavy, and not too flimsy. The colorway is wonderful--a mid-range grey herringbone shot through with vertical striping in berry red, sky blue, and burnt orange. Second, this jacket was made by PBM--one of the most underrated American clothiers. It was made in the USA, in Philadelphia, and is half-canvassed and half-lined, with a two button front and subtle darting. It features three button cuffs--and all of the buttons are leather-covered, metal shanked football buttons. It has a single centre vent. Third, this was made for DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ; a wonderful old-fashioned menswear shop that is now long gone, but which served the old-money town of Pennington with distinction for decades.

Pennington was the fictional home of the hero of Frederick Forsyth's novel *Avenger*, with its tree-lined streets and clapboard houses being described in one of the early chapters. It's a pre-Revoluntary War town, and the churchyard walls are marked with a plaque noting that British troops used to exercise their horses over them. It's the sort of place Muffy would feel at home at.... quieter and less cosmopolitan than its neighbour Princeton, and ideal to wear a jacket like this in!

This jacket is in excellent condition--and given its pedigree and quality, it's a steal at just $30, or offer!

Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 30






16) LInen/SIlk/Wool Blend jacket

This would make a lovely jacket for Spring or early summer! Cut from a blend of linen, silk, and wool, this lovely jacket is subtly darted, has a standard two button front, a single centre vent, and three button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It's in excellent condition, and a bargain at just

$18, or offer.

Tagged a 42R, this measures:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 24 (+2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 31






17) CLASSIC Princeton Clothing Company 3/2 sack in brown herringbone

This is a beautiful jacket, in excellent condition! Like grey herringbone, brown herringbone is a wardrobe staple for Fall, and this is a wonderful example. A classic 3/2 sack, this features lapped seams along the shoulders and down the centre back, as well as a hook vent. This jacket is half-canvassed and half-lined, and was Union made in the USA for the Princeton Clothing Co.. This jacket is wonderful, and so is a steal at

just $29, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 32






18) LOVELY Donna Karan linen jacket. MADE IN ITALY!

While the brand isn't Ivy at all, this jacket is, linen being one of the classic summer Trad fabrics. And this is lovely! Cut with a beautiful drape, this jacket features jetted pockets, a full lining, and four button cuffs. With subtle darts, this is unvented, in Flusser-approved style, and is in absolutely excellent condition. It was made in Italy. The colour is lovely; see the sleeve close up for the most accurate rendition of the lovely light brown of the fabric.

Asking just $20, or offer.

Tagged a 39R, this measures:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/8
Length: 30 3/4






19) IVY CLASSIC! Brooks Brothers wash and wear 3/2 poplin sack.

This is THE trad. summer classic--the Brooks Brothers Wash and wear 3/2 summer sack! Made in the USA, this is a 3/2 sack, featuring a half-lining, a single centre vent, patch pockets, two-button cuffs, and a very natural shoulder. It's in Very Good/Excellent condition.

Asking just $14, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeev: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 5/8
Length: 32






20) NWT Brooks Brothers "Makers Brooksease" Two-Button jacket in charcoal nailhead.

A truly lovely jacket, this is cut from three season wool in a charcoal nailhead pattern, rendering it highly versatile. A standard two button front with a single centre vent, this is half-canvassed and fully lined. This was Made in the USA. This is truly New With Tags; the sleeves are still basted, and the cuff buttons have yet to be attached--they are included in a small bag, just as they came from Brooks. One sleeve is finished, the other still needs the lining attached at the end. This is, of course, in excellent, unworn condition.

Asking just $29--a fraction of retail!--or offer, boxed and shipped in CONUS.

Tagged a 48L, this measures:

Chest: 24 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1)
Shoulder: 20 3/4
Length: 33 1/4








21) BEAUTIFUL English-Cut Blazer--cut from Loro Piana fabric, Made in USA!

This is wonderful! First, it's beautifully cut and styled--it features slightly slanted pockets, including a fully functional ticket pocket, twin vents, darting, and a three button front with just the hint of a lapel roll. It also features pick stitching throughout--on the lapels, on the closure edge, and in the lining. The buttons are all crested, and metal, and heavy. The fabric is from Loro Piana, of Italy, and the jacket was Union made in the USA. The lining is a lovely awning lining, and it is lined in scarlet on the sleeves. It's also half-canvassed.

This is a beautiful jacket!

It does have a few minor thread pulls, especially on the front right quarter, but these are very hard to see, and blend with the texture of the fabric. There is also a very small fray on the seam of the lining. Given these minor flaws, this is in Very Good condition, and hence this beauty is just $22, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 30 1/2






21) STUNNING AND RARE! Beautifully tailored mid-century Harris Tweed from Austin Reed, Regent Street, London.

This is absolutely gorgeous--this is close to the Platonic Form of Harris Tweed! First, the cloth: This is a beautiful, heavier Harris from the middle of the C20th, not the flimsy stuff that can sometimes be found today. This is cloth designed and woven and intended to last decades--and this one is doing its job well, and is ready for more! This has exactly the heft you'd expect from a heavier British tweed jacket, intended for use in the country by the sporting classes. The colourway is also lovely, being a complex basketweave in sky blue, burnished chestnut, and cream. And note the label--this is an uncommon label even for the 1950s, when the classic "Orb" labels were in play (for the real Harris Tweed, and not its competitor, the "Harris tweed" that was sold as such but woven on the mainland, and not on the islands--a fact that prompted a lawsuit and the legal ruling that all Harris tweed must be loomed on the islands, and not just have wool from their sheep.) But, those who affixed the label knew this was Harris, as the orb stamp would have been on the bolt of cloth this was cut from.

It was made in the 1950s by Austin Reed in Regent Street, when Austin Reed offered excellent tailoring services. As such, it's a beautiful classic mid-century British cut--the sort that Ralph Lauren dreams of. As well as having the heft that you'd expect, then, this jacket has a three button front, single button countryside cuffs, and twin vents. It also has padded military shoulders to give its wearer the "V" look so desired by the sporting set, and as all of the men wearing this tweed at this time would have been in uniform a decade before. The jacket is also fully canvassed and fully lined, and the lining has been carefully cut and sewn so that it conforms to the silhouette of the jacket. This jacket has one main wallet pocket inside, and a divided pencil and pen pocket on the other side.

Part from some minor rust makings on the lining, as shown, this jacket is in absolutely excellent condition, and is ready to give you service for the next 50 years.

This is a bargain at just $65, or offer--you won't find a comparable jacket anywhere at this price!

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/8
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 1/4
Length: 30








22) STUNNING AND RARE! Mid-century ORKNEY Tweed jacket from Austin Reed, Regent Street, London.

Orkney tweed is of just the same quality as Harris--perhaps slightly better, as its hand can be slightly softer with no loss to the durability or ruggedness of the cloth--but is far, far rarer. This jacket, then, is quite a find simply for being made from Orkney.. especially since the wteed is question is a classic wide herringbone in brown and cream!

But there's far more to this jacket than the fact that it's cut from Orkney tweed. This jacket was made in 1955, in Regent Street, London, by Austin Reed, back when they were a serious tailoring operation. You might think that it was made for a senior British civil servant, or a member of the sporting British gentry, up in town to stay at his club for a week while visiting his solicitors. Fair guesses, but wrong. This jacket--and its Harris brother, above--was made for...

...a junior in an American high school.

Now, admittedly the High School in question was the Berkshire School of Massachusetts, one of the best private boarding schools in the country, and the high school student in question was John Francis Consolini, who later attended Georgetown, became a Green Beret, and then pioneered various innovations at JC Penney and elsewhere as a senior executive--but still, imagine a jacket of this quality being made for a high school student today!

And this is indeed a very, very serious and beautiful jacket. This is fully canvassed and fully lined, with a classic British twin vent. It has a classic British three button front, and single button cuffs. It has one deep wallet pocket in the interior, and a spilt pen and pencil pocket on the other side. It does have three minor flaws: (1) It is missing the top button at the front--an easy fix; (2) there is a small snag hole on the front, as shown--this could be fixed easily with either re-weaving or darning; (3) there is the start of a wear fray on one elbow--this calls for elbow patches. (And think--it took over 50 years to wear through this tweed!)

Given these flaws, this jacket is in Good/Very Good condition, and so is an absolute bargain at just $28, or offer. And remember--this is a mid-century jacket from London in ORKNEY tweed!

Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 29






23) BEAUTIFUL Striped Harris Tweed

This jacket is wonderful! The tweed that this is cut from is beautiful--a wonderful striped Harris of the sort that is almost never made anymore, and which is redolent of the Ivy campuses of the late 1950s and early 1960s. This is a classic two button sack--rare and desirable in its own right--and features classic two button cuffs. It's half-canvassed and half-lined, and features a single centre vent. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and features a lovely vintage Harris Tweed "Orb" label. This is a beautiful tweed in a rare patterning and colourway, and a rare cut, and so

is a steal at just $45, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 25 (+ 1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/4



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