The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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  2. akatsuki

    akatsuki Senior member

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    The Cartier Tank is a pretty respected design in watch circles with endless tradition (it is actually inspired by Renault tanks from WWI), although the movement quality has varied over the years. Cartier decided to get real about it and start making an in-house movement which you can see in the Calibre de Cartier.



    I may still pick up the RL watch, but I am waiting for a dealer to come down to a more sane price. I talked to one of the sales reps who said that the RL watches weren't selling all that well (no big surprise), so I feel like it is just a matter of time. Some of the other RL sporting watches are also actually quite handsome as well and have JLC movements in them.


    I have a cordovan NATO strap on the way, so I will probably put it on and see how it goes.
     


  3. Singular

    Singular Senior member

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    What I've heard - avoid Burlington Arcade and talk to good dealers instead (Austin Kaye, David Duggan and Daniel Bourn).

    /M
     


  4. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

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    Amen. In terms of style, its timeless. What tends to bug me about Cartier is the ubiquity of their quartz items dragging down their more refined pieces. They've made this calculation in deference to female clientele who prefer quartz to mechanical. From a business perspective, its probably the right decision however as a man it does affect my decision in purchasing one.

    Edit: Actually, don't think its accurate to state women prefer quartz to mechanical, but rather women don't see much of a reason to pay a premium for a mechanical timepiece (though there are exceptions). At the end of the day, its one form of jewelery or another, so they could pour that difference into some pearls, sapphire earrings, diamond tennis bracelet, etc. We men, all we have is watches so we tend to be a bit more demanding.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2012


  5. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

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    And I must admit I kinda like that PP on a NATO strap [​IMG]
     


  6. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

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    seriously- the markup at this place is just laughable. a nice vintage oyster/air king here costs around 3 grand, when it could be had for around half that at austin kaye or £750 or so on tz.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2012


  7. Rkjfk

    Rkjfk Active Member

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    Decided to change to a strap more suitable than nato for new years. 60s Glashütte 67.1, enjoy! [​IMG]
     


  8. Cuttingboard

    Cuttingboard Senior member

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    Anyone know what watch this is?

    [​IMG]


    The more and more I see the Reverso, the more I like it!!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  9. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Hi Cylon,

    Cartier is probably one of the most under rated and under appreciated watch companies in the world. They truly were at the forefront in moving from pocket watches to wrist watches. Some of it may have to do with their fame for making jewelry for royalty and celebrities. However, they have made lasting quality pieces often using the finest movements available, from EWC, Jaeger, JLC, Piaget, F. Piguet, THA, to name a few. Mention the Cartier Tortue Mono-Poussoir (Single Pusher Chronograph) and you will find it is a watch that is highly respected even among watch snobs that are usually only interested in Patek, AP, VC, and Lange. A few relatives of mine that own some really nice Pateks, Langes, and JLCs, were trying to located a Tortue single pusher chrono or Tank XL before production ended. Cartier has often used a multi tier approach to watches, something that Rolex did and maybe protected their brand name a little by selling their lesser line of ETA powered watches under the name Tudor. Cartier allowed people that did not want to spend huge money on a watch to still own a Cartier buy selling a Les Must line and also by using ETA movements in their more ordinary models. However, I think you will find that most of the more classic and higher end pieces, have used very high grade movements. In addition, almost any pre-1970 Cartier is in very high demand by collectors, and Cartier itself has a standing offer to buy them back from anyone that owns one. In addition, many of the recent CPCP pieces are quite coveted and owners often get unsolicited offers to buy.

    I don't think they should have offered quartz movements in their Tank, or a lesser watch like a Tank Solo. However, I think our generation is quick to forget that in the 1970s and 1980s most great brands offered their watches with a quartz movement and it was uncertain in the 1980s if automatics and manual winds would still be around in a few years. Patek, AP, VC, IWC, Rolex, Piaget, etc were all making quartz models to meet the demand for the latest technology. There were Patek Calatravas, Nautilus, AP ROs, IWC Igeniur SLs, and Datejusts availble and regularly sold with quartz movements. It was only really in the late 1980s early 1990s that manual wind and automatics came back into favor. Can you imagine, that in the early 1980s vintage manual winds were so unpopular that people could easily buy a Patek, AP, or VC Perpetual Calendar Chronograph for about $2,000-3,000 USD (or back then the equivalent of a steel and gold Submariner)? Now those pieces are well into six figures.

    As for women's watches, none of the major companies other than Rolex, offer a large number of automatic or manual wind watches for women. The ladies market at least for the last 20+ years is still strongly in favor of quartz watches. Maybe its that most women just aren't that interested in watches so its mostly jewelry for them. Check with most manufacturers and the bulk of offerings for ladies from AP, JLC, Patek, VC etc are quartz. Sure there are a few hand wound pieces but not many. Its a problem my wife often has issues with. She will only buy a manual or automatic watch so it limits her choices.

    Cartier may not appeal to everyone but hopefully seeing a few interesting pieces will open peoples minds to the fantastic pieces they've made that may have been overslooked in the past. I have a relatively rare steel and platinum Cartier Pasha Chronograph that I will try to post some photos of soon. Maybe I should save the VC posting for over the weekend or beginning of next week.


    Best regards,
    Dino

    Quote:
    Hi Akatsuki,

    While Cartier has offered some quartz versions of the Tank, the classic manual wind Tank and its variations (Tank Cintree, Tank Obus, Tank Chinoise) have always used very high grade movements from very respected makers. They are making a lot of their own movements for higher end pieces. But we should also be mindful that even brands like Patek, AP, and VC have not exclusively made all of their own movements. They have used movements from Lemania, JLC, and F. Piguet. Patek only recently stopped using outsourced movements in their chronographs (their 5070 and 5970 both used a Lemania base also used in some VC chronographs).

    Best regards,
    Dino

    Anyone want to guess what brand supplied the same base movement to Patek, AP, and VC, and never used that same movement in their own product?
     


  10. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    The top watch looks to be an older JLC Master Reserve de Marche. Its a nice classic, but I'm always fascinated by Reversos.
     


  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    JLC Reserve de Marche
     


  12. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    If choosing a Datejust thats from the 70's or 80s you should have a lot to choose from. However, a Jubilee bracelet that is that old will probably resemble a bunch of paper clips strung together unless it was rarely worn. Even some Oysterbracelets from that vintage can be a rather tired. Only other thing to consider is Datejusts that are that old will also have an acrylic crystal rather than a scratch resistant synthetic saphire crystal (you have to be into the 1990s to get a saphire crystal). Not a big deal, just something to consider.
     


  13. Donald Donaldson

    Donald Donaldson Senior member

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    In my opinion most of those shops are overpriced and have huge mark ups, mostly catering to tourist trade.

    They are especially bad for trade ins/valuations.

    Check chrono24.com, there are many reputable UK dealers on there, blowers is one of the best.
     


  14. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    For a quirky twist to a somewhat funky watch I actually like the green/gold combo.... there I go throwing my elegant, simple, classic aesthetic out the window, but I dig it!
     


  15. Kid Nickels

    Kid Nickels Senior member

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    repost..
     


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