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The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    Well for free, who wouldn't? But would you purchase one new for Daytona money? I sure wouldn't.

    I would consider a military-issued Type XX from the '50s, however. But really, when you see a military Minerva — from when they were a top watchmaking house, well before suffering the indignity of being eaten by a pen company — listed for €1750, I don't see much point in that option either; at least not for wearing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    On the other hand, Breguet XX/XXIs get reamed on resale, so they seem to be a decent buy secondhand, provided one's prepared to fork over a pile of cash at service time.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2015
  2. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I would buy a recent used Type XX Aeronavale for $4k. I just like them. But the XXI and XXII, no..not worth it, you're quite right.

    You've just given me quite some food for thought, though. As usual.
     
  3. NonServiam

    NonServiam Senior member

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    I'll crawl out of winter hibernation to say: 4 [​IMG]

    I prefer rose gold, but yellow gold can be super nice! It helps if you (unlike me) have a darker-than-pasty-white complextion, and vintage yellow gold often have a warmer glow to it than new (at least it seems to be the case with Rolex). On a brown leather strap yellow gold can be amazing and for everyone!

    [​IMG]

    Or hell, just wear that bracelet proudly! :slayer:

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  4. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    I've seen this one in the flesh. Pass.

    Bad pic I took with bad lighting:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Yellow gold? Why the heck not?

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. aleksandr

    aleksandr Senior member

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    Very nice! Thanks for sharing.
     
  7. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    I first saw it yesterday, when reading up on Type 20/XX models. If the Breguet Type XX you and Mimo talk about is the new one with the polished bezel, then I have to say I prefer the more utilitarian look of the Dodane (and I don't get the Breguet's 30 minute counter - seems unnescessarily hard to read with only having markings every second minute and no numerals). Though if that second screw in the Dodane's lug doesn't do anything (which I guess it doesn't), then that would annoy me too.


    [​IMG]

    Of the ones I'm aware of, my favourite Flieger chronos are the IWC 3706 (and the double, 3711/3713). How do you rate those against the Sinn 103?


    [​IMG]
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Oh you're right, there's nothing utilitarian about the Aeronavale. I just like it. For sitting on a yacht in linen and loafers, eating cakes. For rugged manly stuff, sure, get a Sinn.
     
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  9. aleksandr

    aleksandr Senior member

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    To celebrate the opening of a new boutique, JLC brought some eye candy to town:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    That meteorite dial is :love:

    Unfortunately they couldn't be tried on but I took the opportunity to try some others..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Yep. That would be my #1 choice for a YG case and bracelet watch.
     
  11. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    I only like the old Breguet pilot's chronos. The new ones don't do much for me, either.

    The 3706, 3711 and 3713 are my favourite non-vintage IWC models. They're better-finished in all aspects than Sinn (not that Sinn is deficient), the bracelets are just outstanding, and the design is true to its British MoD roots. They're better watches, and it's reflected in the cost, and I'm still not super-keen on expensive 7750s. The movement was designed from the outset to be inexpensive, though fortunately not at the expense of reliability.
     
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  12. DLJr

    DLJr Senior member

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    Very cool pics @aleksandr
     
  13. DerekS

    DerekS Senior member

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    agree completely. The 3706 can be had for fairly reasonable. As much as i like Sinns offerings...to me they just seem to be a $500 watch. The IWCs finishing really are top notch. Looks and feels like a higher quality watch.
     
  14. NonServiam

    NonServiam Senior member

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    Late to the party, but I wholeheartedly concur, as you well know Belligero :nodding: The OQ is a stealth gem.

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. zippyh

    zippyh Senior member

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    Go brown. The blue dial Sub was the first Rolex I bought.
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Thanks Belli.

    And nice OQ NS, with two great dials.
     
  17. BostonHedonist

    BostonHedonist Senior member

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    What do you gentlemen make of the spring drive movement used in some of the Grand Seikos? From what I can see, the GS GMT watches seem to be an incredible value and that sweep is just lovely. But I had one of those Kinetic watches that Seiko built the technology off of once, and had to change the capacitor after about four years.
     
  18. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    I personally don't think it's a good idea. I'd rather go all-mechanical or normal quartz. Seiko offers some amazingly good conventional quartz movements.

    The complex hybrid approach seems to combine the worst of both worlds: the maintenance requirements and constant tension/wear of mechanical, and the unserviceable failure mode of micro-electronics. Also, unless it's on your wrist every day, quartz accuracy is essentially meaningless when the watch stops after a few days off the wrist and needs resetting. I suppose one could keep it on a winder, but I'd say that's a case of the cure being worse than the disease.

    Seiko devotees like to point out that the movement took 25 years to develop. I'd wager that what actually happened is that they came up with a concept , quickly realized it had absolutely no advantages (and significant disadvantages) compared to existing designs, shelved it for about twenty years, and then thought it might be viable as a pointless luxury — which expensive wristwatches essentially are.

    :teach:
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2015
  19. CMT1

    CMT1 Senior member

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    Yes. And, yes. The 16613 is definitely a guilty pleasure of mine.

    For years I was continually put off the watch not only for its trumpet of conspicuous consumption, but also due to the insufferable boorishness of the usual bearer. I've met many imbecilic Philistine jackasses who, having found themselves with the resources to afford a "nice watch," choose a 16613 and consider it the ne plus ultra pinnacle of Horology. These guys are usually as loud as the watch itself and could not care less about the passion for Time.

    I also still see large concentrations of the (1)16613 in both blue and black dial form littering the resort areas where I live, with the average age of the owner being around one or two thousand years old - Very off-putting for sure.

    I never thought I'd actually own one, but mine was offered to me at such a deal that I would have been a fool to pass on it. A close friend's father had purchased it, worn it once and decided that it wasn't for him, and left it in his safe for years. It is an M serial, supposedly the last of the 16613s before Rolex moved to the V serial 116613 (although there are now reports of V serial 16613s from what I understand), and the offered price was thousands less than its preowned market value.

    Coupled with the fact that I have always admired the watch from afar despite its deficiencies, real or perceived, it was a no brainer for me. I made it my wedding present to myself. Although nine times out of ten I reach for my stainless Duo in the morning, I have come to really enjoy the 16613 when I do wear it and, given the sentimental value and story of the watch, I'm very glad to have it.

    A casual day today, so 112F on JV for me.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  20. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I think Cartier did it better with their ID2 concept watch...no silly engraving. However, perhaps when Zenith did the engraving it was to help distinguish it from other lesser clear watches. The Cartier looks cool, but after a while I kind of look at it and say with the exception of the movement it starts to take on a resemblance to a clear Swatch.
    [​IMG]

    While I probably wouldn't purchase a two tone Rolex (as my preference is for a single color case & bracelet), I think the two tone GMT and two tone Sub are sort of classics in their collection. If someone gave me one as a gift I'd be very comfortable wearing it. If you like the two tone, why not add one to your collection to add some diversity of case metal. I am not really a fan of the current two tone Daytonas...I think the El Primero based models look better particularly the early white dial with black subdial trim rings. I find the current brassy colored gold trim rings very unappealing on the gray dial Daytona above. I'd probably go with a black dial GMT or Sub to tone things down a bit...or if you want a blue two tone Sub, look for an older model with dark starburst dial...love the dark blue starburst color!

    Wishing you luck with wherever the journey leads you. [​IMG]



    Yes, both are nice and demonstrate that the lugs are sort of bold and have an interesting curvature to them. I also like the large visible screw from the side, very cool! Thanks for sharing some more pix with us.

    I always thought the initial flat pastel blue of the early 116613 was very unattractive. I think the starburst blue is far more attractive. I actually, like the early starburst blue from back in the days when they still used tritium as lum as those dials were often super dark and regal looking.

    Yellow gold oxidizes over time and can take on a sort of rosy or bronze-ish look. I noticed that on my 16528 from 1994. I've even had a few people ask if its rose, because it has darkened over time. Even the ridges in the winding crown have a sort of reddish-brown hue. And I agree...if you have it on a bracelet, wear it proudly and enjoy!

    P.S. the photo to the right, the lighting is off so the yellow looks very bright, but the color is more accurate on the photo to the left. I only posted the photo on the right to show how the ridges on the crown have turned a reddish-brown hue as have the top area of the bracelet and lugs.

    [​IMG][​IMG]




    Love the old Flieger 3706 and the Doppel 3713. Possibly the only 7750 Valjoux based watches I've ever seriously considered. The bracelets on the originals from say the 1990s through about 2002 are just amazing (comfortable, subtle, and understated). If I ever do go with a 7750 based watch, it will probably be a vintage 3706 or 3713!
    [​IMG] Those are my favorite non-vintage IWCs and the only ones I've ever given any serious thought kopping.

    Not much. They are well made, but unless its a screaming deal, and I mean cheap, I just can't get excited about spending thousands on Seiko. Maybe its the brand whore in me, but I just see an expensive Seiko as diverting funds that could be used on other watches I'd prefer to own.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2015
    2 people like this.
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