Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.
He steals stationery. I bet he steals stationery. He totally looks the type.
I use our shipping account. But I have permission for that.
Quick pic from yesterday. PAM390.
+1 especially for the font sizing!
Great recent posts from Dino, mimo and stitchy about the evolving relationships of ADs and manufacturers. There are a few 100+ year old relationships that Patek has with the Tiffanys and Wempes of this world that might stand such tests, but all I've heard about Rolex is what others have posted about it too about tightening the screws on their dealers, past relationships be damned.
On a lighter note, a friend of mine is headed up to Geneva for a week to be wined and dined by the Patek higher ups, all expenses paid. Perhaps Sandrine Stern will tempt him with ornate engraved cases and other such "innovative" new designs. This one is c/o one of Patek's leading ADs in the US so obviously if you're moving inventory for a manufacturer, it is in their interest to keep their relationship with you.
Am I the only one that thinks the AT (while a fantastic watch) is basically just a Rolex Explorer I homage? If you don't think so, here's the AT-Railmaster
You can call the DJ generic if you like, but it's the original design - all the others are copies.
Silly Moo. I was the one who sent you to the FAD for your Speedy!
Not even close, ChicagoRon!
The AT's dial/hands are a direct reference to the Omega Ranchero, a model which debuted in the late 1950s. In turn the design DNA of the Rachero has its origins in 3 iconic Omega models - the (original) Speedmaster, the (original) Seamaster 300, and the (original) Railmaster - all released in the mid 1950s.
(the original Ranchero)
Note that the Rolex Explorer has only been around since the early 1950s, and in the form we recognise today only since the mid 50s.
So a contemporary, yes. A homage, no.
I think the boutique idea can be very successful for large volume companies or companies under a very strong umbrella (Richemont). Cartier has had boutiques all over the world for decades. They have a business model and they know how to make it work. Supposedly they closed down more than 140 ADs within the last 3 years. Some boutiques will go into markets that have enough sales of their products through ADs. In midsize markets and more remote markets they will leave AD's in place if they do enough business. Small ADs...adios! I think lower volume Richemont companies like VC we will see boutiques here and there more to show a presence (NYC, Vegas, BH) rather than as a true business necessity. Really, small production companies, such as Lange, we may or may not see 1 boutique say in NYC (for show).
A brand like Rolex has money to blow, so even if it costs them some money to set up some boutiques, and I while to find the right model to make it work, they have the money to weather out the storm and eventually make their boutiques profitable.
The days of big discounts on watches from ADs are gone. I won't bore you guys with details, but lets just say, my father could get 30-40 off Pateks, I could get 35% off VCs and JLCs, 25% off Cartiers, 15% off steel Rolex(except Daytonas). AD's are afraid of being punished, with loss of franchise, being sent large batches of harder to sell merchandise, being forced to carry ridiculous amounts of inventory etc. The deals that were available 10 years ago or more are gone.
Beyond being disappointed about not getting the deals I used to be able to get, I am sad to see ADs I liked lose brands I am interested in purchasing. It makes it tougher for me to continue a relationship with them.
However, I do understand why some brands, want to open more boutiques. They have control over pricing, stock of more sought after models, and the profit from a sale goes completely to them. They are not merely getting a portion of the sale, so that a middleman/AD can make a profit even after a discount.
Either way, whether one lives in an area with ADs or Boutiques or both, I think discounts will be much smaller than what we were traditionally used to years ago, and in some cases they may be non existent.
I've seen several family owned jewelry stores in our area that were Rolex ADs for 50+ years recently lose their contracts with Rolex.
Rolex is quite possibly the most important brand a dealer can carry. I remember one AD telling me Rolex can make or break a month for a store, while brands like Lange, Patek, AP, VC, etc are nice window dressing for collectors...but most ADs can't survive on them alone.
So basically if an AD has Rolex or can get them (very tough to get a new account with them these days), ADs will do anything it takes to make Rolex happy.
I agree with you about them being contemporaries. While Ron isn't accurate about it being an homage, I do think he has a point. I have to say when I look at an AT, I can't help but think of the Explorer 1. However, when I look at an Explorer 1, I never think of the AT.
that ranchero is amazing.
The Tank looks like a good fit on you. Here's an XGT-size Reverso next to a 42 mm watch for size comparison. I'm starting to realize that I like the idea of the Reverso better than the actual wearing of it. I've been reaching for the GP every time since it arrived for situations that suit that type of watch. Here's how it looks on the wrist. Its colours are more visible in this photo, too.
Man, would I ever love the opportunity to get bored with a stunning Reverso like that!
Is that GP vintage? What model is it? I'm not seeing it on their site.
Belligero - your pics never fail to to satisfy.
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