Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.
Sounds about right to me, too.
I'd definitely wear any one of those five, but buying them is a different story. With the exception of the RO and possibly the FF, they seem a bit unfocused design-wise to me, almost as if they were the luxury SUVs of the watch world. Apologies for the trite car comparison. Although there's no way I'd take the chrono Portuguese over an auto, Dino's comment about it being neither dressy nor sporty is exactly how I feel about it too, and it applies to some of the others as well.
In any case, out of those five, I'd easily pick the AP.
Dino, how robust do you find the RO 15202? Do you wear it for gentle sports, or to the pool perhaps? Its 50m WR has always bugged me. In that regard, the VC Overseas is a much more suitable sporting watch.
Totally agree on IWC - what's up with them and their enormous sizes? Seems a little cheap to have an entire line-up of gigantic, thick designs. Their vintage cal 89 watches were certainly their zenith in terms of design.
Played with this and I think it looks and feels pretty cheap. Using the same movement as the RO is a little strange to me in an elegant dress watch. There are much more attractive ultrathins out there from VC (and JLC at the lower-end) than this Piguet.
What a beautiful vintage piece
I have a timeless 1920's 18ct Cushion Oyster Rolex, that my late Father left me - It has a soft pink gold finish which slightly resembles my 1960s 9ct gold Rolex Precision.
Does anybody else here insure their watches, if so with which company please?
I travel often to Asia and on every corner in major cities you'll find a poseur with 6" wrists wearing a Big Pilot. It's ridiculous.
I don't like any of the newer "sport' or "pilot" IWCs.
Their designs remind me of watches from Ball or Bell&Ross, i.e. your garden variety lower-mid tier watch company patronised by guidos, except with a veneer of credibility lent by the models that came before them so that somehow every dubiously/newly rich person with an internet connection has one and - hey presto - instant WIS cred!
I guess they are like BMWs - OK-nice cars, terrible clientele.
I have a 3741 and when I get my next IWC it will be a 3705.
+1 gajillion. I landed in Singapore 9 hours ago and have already seen 3 ill-fitting Big Pilots... the look is retarded. I love the aesthetics of the Big Pilot (particularly in white gold with rhuthenium dial), but with 6.75" wrists I can't pull it off myself (not that this stops me from strapping one on every few months!)
Dino, I agree with everything you've written, and from your question a few days ago I'm absolutely still in awe of the proportions, understated presence and finishing of the 15202. Regarding the 15400, however, my own preference would be to downsize to the 15300, dozens of which are floating on the market at any given time at attractive pricing. Not only do I feel that 39" is a more timeless size for the Royal Oak, but the 15300 also has a more harmonious dial layout given that it's the same movement - but in the 39" case for which it was intended - as opposed to the 41" of the 15400. In principle and in practice, I just haven't seen very good examples of leveraging the same movement into a larger case, at least where apertures and subdials are involved. Just my $.02...
Like I said, I wouldn't buy any of them but based purely on aesthetics I'd probably go for the Portuguese (tho I didn't mention in my previous post that I think its overpriced).
The fundamental issue is this: I don't see the justification to spend so much an ETA powered movement when I could go buy a Sinn for the same aesthetic. Frankly I wouldn't buy ANY IWC pilot watch--I'd rather get a Stowa Flieger (no logo no date) and call it a day.
As for the dornbluth, the 99.4 is a good stand in for the Portuguese
EDIT: I also prefer the GO senator observer to the portuguese
here is another rather simple AP i like, btw.
that's gaudily interesting. good work
Wow, you're certainly the minority. That watch is a classic. And stunning. And extremely well made.
Again I know I'm in the minority here about AP - truly great watches and craftsmanship. I just can't really get into them, though if I ever see one in the wild then I automatically think "damn, that guy is ballin'" (in a good way..) I actually like some of louder in your face ROOs like the Volcano, Bumblebee and End of Days. I think it just works with the case design and find them very interesting. I also like the Jules Verne Chrono (drool) but my wife would leave me if i tried to buy that now.
I'm a huge IWC fan, and I have the 5001 and 5004. I admit the IWC deployant is not the best fitting design for my wrist, but I love the dials of both.
Differences make the world more interesting, no?
That is a truly great watch with a, to my taste, awful dial. I would love to see Rolex tone down the design so the dial is less crowded and eliminate some of that accreted Rolex branding and nomenclature. The one thing I love are the skeletonized hands. But otherwise, most of the design features make the watch less readable and more confusing.
Guys, thanks for taking the time to write such interesting and detailed comments. You'll be seeing a wristshot of one of these watches in the next few days. Just a couple of my own thoughts: Big Pilot - Very much a love it or hate it watch. I don't know if I would call it "beautiful" but there is something special about the feeling of strapping it on. Makes me want to do the Flo-rida dance from Tropic Thunder. The Blancpain and Panerai give similar impressions, but in a slightly more restrained way (and I know the Panerai has its own distinct merits). Also I know I'm in a tiny minority, but I strongly prefer the 5009/5004 to the 5002 BP. The numerals and hands have a quirkiness factor. shared with the Panerai aesthetic, that I think is crucial for this type of watch. If you're going to have a silly jumbo clock on your wrist, I think it's essential to have a sense of humor about it. Really don't understand people who insist on staying faithful to the Nazi fighter pilot aesthetic in this context. Tropic Thunder dance: Portuguese - When handled in real life, this one definitely seems to be a notch below in terms of finishing compared to the others on this list. The one standout feature, however, is that it's got one of the most beautiful dials that I've seen on any watch, ever. Each detail, from the traintrack hash marks to the applied numerals, to the hands and to the subdial placement, is absolutely perfect. And the glossy black dial is positively radiant. Of all the watches on the list, this one gives me the most pleasure to stare at straight-on. Royal Oak - This one was originally not on my radar. I went to the AD to browse PAMs and IWCs, and only tried this and the Blancpain as an afterthought. Of all watches that I've ever seen, this is the one for which pictures do the least justice. The finishing detail on the case, bracelet, and tapisserie dial is seriously breathtaking. Putting it on, I forgot about my previous misgivings of the watch being a gimmicky alternative to the time-tested conventional watch format (round dial, thin bezel), and rather appreciated it entirely on its own terms. This is just a dazzling piece of wrist jewelry. On another note, I've given a lot of thought to the 15300 vs 15400 debate and though I'm inclined to defer to the WIS connoisseurs on most topics, as with the Big Pilot this time I am in the minority. I understand the point about the small movement, but the 15400 corrects 3 flaws that really sour me on the 15300 - (i) the AP logo at 12 o'clock hash mark, which to my mind is the wrong place for such graphics, (ii) the lack of a hash mark at 3 o'clock and resulting asymmetry, and (iii) the white date marker, which to me is something that really undermines the sophistication of the dial. Also, the dial/bezel width ratio on the 41mm version gives the watch a less sporty, more formal feel (don't know if that's good or bad).
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