The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[jordong]



Hellstern was founded in the 1880s in Paris as a maker of ladies’ shoes. Subsequently they embarked into men’s shoes as well. They had a branch in London’s Bond Street for fifty odd years, from the Edwardian days to the early 60s.

I do not know, if Hellstern had French and English production facilities, but those shoes featured look distinctly English due to the way the Norwegian construction is done (two rows of stitching), as well as the back lining made from upper leather.

I might have been the owner of those shoes. They were up on eBay maybe six months ago. I observed them, but then I decided not to bid. They were too small and I do not collect shoes, just to look at them. (Back then, they did not get any bids at all).

Here are the seller’s photographs, which I saved. (I like the medallion, I might copy it at some point.)

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I believe it is the identical pair of shoes.

I have a new pair of Hellstern's the look recent. Are they still making new men's shoes? Was not able to find anything on the net.

 

[jerrybrowne]

#4 shell/ HIppo from Cleverley.

 

[VRaivio]

^Unique mix of oily shine and matte gruffness, wear them in health! What will you pair these with?

 

[jerrybrowne]



^Unique mix of oily shine and matte gruffness, wear them in health! What will you pair these with?

Thank you! I'll wear with odd trousers and chinos. Pretty casual shoe.

 

[nutcracker]



#4 shell/ HIppo from Cleverley.

Wow! love the shape too.

....I would think the #4 shell is even more scarce than hippo hides....

 

[Winot]

I am thinking of having a Devon shoe made by Cleverley for my next commission:

Love the look but not sure about the practicality of the tobacco suede. Thoughts?

Also wondering about subbing the Russian reindeer for the croc. Which would be dearer, do you think?

 

[TehBunny]

Cool model Winot; by nature a spectator or two-tone shoes isn't going to be very practical....but he'll it's bespoke go with the colours that you love.
Saying that, I'm also not a fan of that tobacco suede I would either sub it for something closer to the other tone to achieve a more subdued look or go with an even lighter and more contrasting colour.
I believe Croc is a bit more expensive then Russia calf; not sure though (I'm sure someone will chime in).

But he'll it's bespoke; with these kinda things I would go with something that 'you' love rather then what common sense brings you to buy (black oxford); but if you love black oxfords like me that's another matter.....

 

[jerrybrowne]



I am thinking of having a Devon shoe made by Cleverley for my next commission:

Love the look but not sure about the practicality of the tobacco suede. Thoughts?

Also wondering about subbing the Russian reindeer for the croc. Which would be dearer, do you think?

Nice shoe. Honestly, I think a calfskin/ croc or a calfskin/ russian makeup would be much more versatile. Just one man's opinion.

Best

 

[mimo]

I like the suede, but not in an adelaide. I'd go with an oxford instead, and reindeer instead of the croc. I don't think croc looks great on spectators; a smaller texture than scales is better. For me, croc needs to be in larger scale (oops, no pun intended) to look its best e.g. a wholecut or two eyelet derby. But a spectator with contrasting textures like suede, pingrain, even lizard, is cool in my book.

Anyway, I guess the privilege of bespoke is letting everyone else go shoe themselves, and getting what you want. Hope it works out well, and enjoy.

 

[Winot]

Thanks guys - interesting ideas. I'll have a muse and see what Cleverley think. Am leaning towards calf/reindeer.

 

[Winot]



Why not reindeer/croc. Solves the problem.

Not sure if that would be enough contrast for my liking. Also not sure about a GBP 4000 pair of shoes (guessing).

 

[VRaivio]

Not a pair of mine but I decided to share the pictures as there aren't many of Aubercy's bespoke pairs on SF. These have very strong lines which differ from the owner's usual orders. Perhaps some of our French members can chime in whether the pair represents Aubercy's house style.

 

[Romain]

This pair might have been done by Didier Martinez who used to be a bootmaker there but left a few years ago. Now I don't believe they have any in-house maker (afaik).

I saw recent pictures of a Japanese bootmaker's trunk show in their shop but I don't know much more about it.

I would not say it is representative of Aubercy's house style. I am not that familiar with their shoes but, from what I saw, it really depends on the models. I would say half way between Lobb Paris (classic British style with a sleek Parisian touch) and Berluti (some patterns are... unusual).

 

[Winot]

New Cleverleys - calf and suede:

(Edited to fix upload problem)

 

[DWFII]

Here's a pair I just finished...I'm fairly happy with these--lady's black Milano Adelaides with burgundy kangaroo bead. 1-1/4" Cuban heel, 8 iron outsole, welted and stitched at 11spi.

The burgundy bead could have been a little less "in your face" prominent. On a classic English shoe the bead around the topline, for instance, would barely be visible. Very subtle. But again, on this shoe, it is an accent and these are lady's' shoes so it needed to be implemented as a design element. (click for larger pic)

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