The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[clee1982]



Thanks. Yes, it's the original Russian calf. It took me a while to get the design right and lots of back-and-forth with the maker. I'm happy with the way it turned out.

dumb question, what does "original" russian calf mean? As in the sunken ship story?

 

[bboysdontcryy]

^ Yes. There are 'imitations'. Girling's hatchgrain is one example.

 

[isshinryu101]

Today I have 2 wonderful pairs of Vintage Bespoke Budapesters. I have recently had a small debate where I have heard once again, "I just don't like Vintage Shoe Styles". I can understand this statement because there are so many preconceived notions about exactly what a "vintage style" is. In actuality, there is no such thing as a "Vintage Style"... they are ALL VINTAGE STYLES!

Every style and shape of modern shoes has been done before. Some a few decades ago, some have aspects of styles from 100 years ago, but the point remains the same. I just saw these lying in my shoe workshop & took a coupla pics for comparison.

First, a pair of 1940's bespoke Hungarian made wingtip Budapesters. Please note the angle cut close channel sole + that wonderful Goyser hand-welt. Of course these 2 details are huge with everyone's favorite Hungarian RTW shoemaker... Vass.

Here's the Vass version, but with broguing in this case.

 

[isshinryu101]

Pair number 2 is also from the 1940's, but this time by French maker Helstern & Sons. Bespoke, of course to keep with the spirit of this thread.

This time however, the construction is a Veldtschoen. Similarly durable and waterproof to the Goyser, but more popular in the UK and France.

My point is that it is difficult to say, "I don't like Vintage Shoe styles", then rock a pair of Budapesters from Vass, Dinkelacker or the many others that make a modern version of this Tough-lookin' style.

 

[chogall]

Two pair of vintage ass kicking shoes!

p.s., isshy, what do you use to condition the insoles of these vintage wonders?

 

[mimo]

Isshi, you bring me joy!

 

[isshinryu101]



Two pair of vintage ass kicking shoes!

p.s., isshy, what do you use to condition the insoles of these vintage wonders?

Thanks, very glad you like. I treat the interiors just the same as the uppers. Lotsa conditioner and even a layer of cream polish if necessary. After the polish, I make sure to remove any excess with a soft cloth. Of course one doesn't want socks that are stained with cream polish. What this does is fill in the pores in the leather. Pores filled with a nice healthy cream polish are much less likely to dry out. The leather used in interiors is much more fragile than that used in uppers, so the battle against dryness after the 6th decade is very important. After this, condition 1x per year.

Isshi, you bring me joy!

Thanks for the support!

 

[bengal-stripe]



French maker Helstern & Sons. Bespoke, of course to keep with the spirit of this thread.

Hellstern was founded in the 1880s in Paris as a maker of ladies’ shoes. Subsequently they embarked into men’s shoes as well. They had a branch in London’s Bond Street for fifty odd years, from the Edwardian days to the early 60s.

I do not know, if Hellstern had French and English production facilities, but those shoes featured look distinctly English due to the way the Norwegian construction is done (two rows of stitching), as well as the back lining made from upper leather.

I might have been the owner of those shoes. They were up on eBay maybe six months ago. I observed them, but then I decided not to bid. They were too small and I do not collect shoes, just to look at them. (Back then, they did not get any bids at all).

Here are the seller’s photographs, which I saved. (I like the medallion, I might copy it at some point.)

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I believe it is the identical pair of shoes.

 

[VinnyMac]

if it's done similarly by a different company is it still an abomination ?

Yes...still looks a little "witchy."

 

[isshinryu101]



I do not know, if Hellstern had French and English production facilities, but those shoes featured look distinctly English due to the way the Norwegian construction is done (two rows of stitching), as well as the back lining made from upper leather.

I would have had thought the same thing at first, but have these as well (Chasse).

French maker JM Weston does the Norwegian-style construction the same way. This is the detail that actually drew me to them in the first place.

 

[mimo]

I love the way that stitching looks - almost imperceptibly irregular to feel hand-made, yet so almost-perfect it shouts quality. Lovely.

 

[sstomcat]

deleted

 

[VRaivio]

I've never seen a similar cap construction so I figured this one would find its place on this thread. Made by Riccardo Borella.

 

[sstomcat]

Petkov, red brown calf.

 

[chogall]

Right shoe eyelet closing looks a bit off IMO.