**The Official Shoe Care Thread: Tutorials, Photos, etc.**

[OzzyJones]



haha about to go to bed, been wanting a pair forever and couldn't resist after picked up the russian reindeer saddle too. Almost bought the belt as well but caught myself

Reindeer saddle you say!?! Now I'm interested! Not into the monks myself just the aubergine suede! Good willpower BTW!

 

[OzzyJones]

....

 

[stevent]



Reindeer saddle you say!?! Now I'm interested! Not into the monks myself just the aubergine suede! Good willpower BTW!

Here's the saddle in a quick iphone shot:

But back on topic, good suede waterproofer?

 

[jasonmx3]

I have the exact same pair of To Boot NY oxfords as in the link. The box says that the color is Berry Tan; however, the shoe color changes from light (on top) to dark brown (on the sides and front). Some have described it as "duo-tone".

What color shoe polish/wax should I use? The shoe has some scuffs that I would like to cover up. Thanks!

http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/to-boot-new-york-oxford/3132833

Edit -- Attaching picture of the actual shoe:

 

[joiji]

What is the best suede waterproofer? Ideally something that doesn't change suede color? Just got the Cleverley by C&J aubergine double monks and want to keep color spot on

I believe Saphir make something in an aresol for this purpose, invulner?

 

[NOBD]

Yes, Invulner and Rénovateur.

 

[MoneyWellSpent]

Here's the saddle in a quick iphone shot:


But back on topic, good suede waterproofer?

Good looking shoes. Have you given any children nightmares yet by squatting down and telling them that your shoes are made from the skin of a dead reindeer?

 

[Lear]



"Wow, nice shoes..."

Death by real horn would be the SF way to go. Make sure not to spill any blood on your shoes though, it makes nasty stains : )

I don't use any tape. Even as an alcoholic my hands are steady enough not to muck it up. So if I can do it, you can.
Anyway, even if you get some dye on the upper it will be mendable.
My sandpapering project (somewhere on the forum) was the only thing that really tested my nerves up till now, as far as shoes are concerned.

Sandpapering project? Please tell more.

Okay, I'm going to use cotton (ear) buds, as the bulbous Saphir dye applicator looks a little imprecise. Yep, decided to go the liquid route. Won't bother with masking tape, as I can't imagine myself slipping.

People ask - well they don't really - why we do this ourselves. I took this pair of shoes to a highly recommended cobbler. He lathered on the edge protector. Was poorly applied, with one spot that won't come out (light tan shoe). I can do a better job myself.

Lear

 

[Lear]



Just posted these images in the B/S section for my non-toxic shoe polish and I thought I would share them here.

Black, quarter brogue, Adelaide, Edward Green shoes on the 888 last, polished with GlenKaren polish:

Mirror shine on toe and heel counter with GlenKaren High Shine Paste Polish:

Nice.

Glenjay, thanks for the advanced preview earlier this year.

Lear

 

[Lear]

First time experiences with Saphir Renomat

This is not a tutorial. There are many experts here, who know exactly what they're doing. Seek out their posts for further information. These are simply my experiences.

Edit: All these shoes had about five years worth of various product layers. Even then, seams and joins weren't gunked up. I'm always careful about that. I build up all my colour finishes with many ultra thin layers. Obviously, I like that little bit extra on the toecaps . This wasn't about a heavy build-up dulling the finish, cracking or clogging the seams. However, winter salt and slush had marred the finish on a few pairs of shoes: a slight flaking on some, with white deposits on others. Don't think you can create high quality work over a sub-standard base.You can't put polish over salt stains. They'll simply grin through, all wasting your time and polish. You can however use vinegar or Saphir Hiver-Winter. Other (normal) folk can happily continue over any surface they like, but they ain't SF readers.

What I've discovered is:

1.) The white salt deposits won't cover or go away without proper treatment. Even after using Renomat, there appears to be something still there (although his could be my imagination). Luckily, I also bought some Saphire Hiver-Winter. I'll give this a go next. Belt & braces.

2.) The bottle of Saphir Renomat is a tiny thin glass bottle. It wants to tip over all by itself. Make sure you take precautions.

3.) I'm embarrassed to say that I used a complete bottle of Renomat on just thee pairs of shoes. I didn't feel as if I was wasting the stuff either. Others seem to use considerably less.

4.) Upon application, you first feel as if the cloth is turning black, but the layers of thickness are still there (on the multi-layered mirrored toes). Be patient. I used an old handkerchief to rub with moderate force.

5.) Later on I actually used a well worn green kitchen scourer. I'm not recommending that you do this. I won't know if it's made the leather more sensitive to raising when wet. I'll get back to you on that. It did speed up the process though.

6.) Black polish removes with some thickness onto the hanky. Very light colours less so, to the point that I was wondering if it was working. It does.

7.) The smell is pretty strong, but not overpowering. An open window and it soon dissipates.

8.) I had the heels replaced before stripping, as I didn't want the cobbler to muck up a perfect base. However, I forgot that he'd automatically do the edges, which I've now mucked up with the Renomat. No problem for me, as I have the Saphir dye for just that purpose. If you don't have edge dressing, you might want to consider this.

9.) I'm left with some beautifully clean shoes. Better than I'd expected. I probably spent about 90 minutes on each pair. This is as far as I'm prepared to go with shoes. No dying of leather for me.

10.) I was worried the factory finish would be damaged. Not so for me. I don't know if poor quality leather is more susceptible to colour loss.

11.) Last step will be to purchase a sheet of mid 100's + mid 200's sandpaper. I'll sand the sole edges smooth before applying the dye in very thin layers.

13.) Wear latex gloves. I found the whole process to be relatively safe. Not half as messy as I was expecting.

No pics I'm afraid.

To be continued...

Lear

 

[stevent]



Yes, Invulner and Rénovateur.

Thanks, saw that mentioned in search in this thread but seems to be limited info

 

[JackFlash]

Thanks, saw that mentioned in search in this thread but seems to be limited info

. . . and limited availability in the US.

 

[Winston S.]



I have the exact same pair of To Boot NY oxfords as in the link. The box says that the color is Berry Tan; however, the shoe color changes from light (on top) to dark brown (on the sides and front). Some have described it as "duo-tone". What color shoe polish/wax should I use? The shoe has some scuffs that I would like to cover up. Thanks! http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/to-boot-new-york-oxford/3132833 Edit -- Attaching picture of the actual shoe:

Spoiler

For what it's worth, I would go with a neutral or light tan cream polish and match the color of the scuffs to the cream polish, i.e,. if you have scuffs on both the light and dark parts you will need two.

 

[grendel]

. . . and limited availability in the US.

Yes, I'd like to get some of the Saphir re-coloring / protecting suede spray, but nobody seems to ship to the US. Does anyone have any sources for it?

 

[stevent]



Yes, I'd like to get some of the Saphir re-coloring / protecting suede spray, but nobody seems to ship to the US. Does anyone have any sources for it?

Damn just searched everywhere, seems like nobody will ship the spray. Hanger project is out of stock as well. Anybody want to do a group order maybe from Saphir directly if that is possible?