The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[krudsma]

Friends come and go, but good boots last a long time.

You can re-sole a boot but you can't re-soul a friendship.

 

[d4nimal]

I really used to love Wallace and Barnes, but it seems like in the past few years they kind of gutted the soul out of a lot of their pieces. Their chambray shirts still seem pretty decent and I think they’ve still got decent stuff but the last time I got excited about a WB item was canoeist smock (not the wool patch one), which was years ago. They even re released it later but took out a lot of the details that made it good. This was true to some extent before, but more so now I often can’t tell the difference between mainline and WB. Maybe I’m just looking back w/ rose colored glasses though.

 

[dieworkwear]

I really used to love Wallace and Barnes, but it seems like in the past few years they kind of gutted the soul out of a lot of their pieces. Their chambray shirts still seem pretty decent and I think they’ve still got decent stuff but the last time I got excited about a WB item was canoeist smock (not the wool patch one), which was years ago. They even re released it later but took out a lot of the details that made it good. This was true to some extent before, but more so now I often can’t tell the difference between mainline and WB. Maybe I’m just looking back w/ rose colored glasses though.

Yea, I agree. I go back every season looking for something new and interesting. But it's increasingly a line of basics. That canoe smock was far and away the most interesting thing they've made.

I met someone who designs for the line and asked for an interview. The person was open to it in the beginning but then fell off the radar.

 

[StaticProgression]

Yea, I agree. I go back every season looking for something new and interesting. But it's increasingly a line of basics. That canoe smock was far and away the most interesting thing they've made.

I met someone who designs for the line and asked for an interview. The person was open to it in the beginning but then fell off the radar.

That would be a cool perspective. I hope they follow back up with you on that.

I’d third this opinion in the sense that most W&B I buy is secondhand or NOS off eBay - I’m usually looking for specific things, like those flannels, or a type of shirt I know they did at some point. I always come across some old piece I don’t remember that was super cool - I saw this hunting jacket the other day and was impressed. You check what’s being sold used from before and compare it to the 35 items on the website (which is sadly such a small amount in the collection) and it’s easy to tell it’s de-emphasized.

 

[krudsma]

Yea, I agree. I go back every season looking for something new and interesting. But it's increasingly a line of basics. That canoe smock was far and away the most interesting thing they've made.

I met someone who designs for the line and asked for an interview. The person was open to it in the beginning but then fell off the radar.

I'd be curious to hear this as well. I wonder if there's been internal pressure to push that line closer to the mainline stuff. I have a Type II trucker from them that I got NOS and it's excellent. Unfortunately I haven't seen a ton of exciting stuff lately either, although I think some of the pleated cords look nice this season.

 

[jaaz16]

I don't know anything about design or production, but judging from the increasingly limited offerings and frankly difficulty in even navigating to the W&B offerings from the main menu on the website, I'd guess that there is little of any internal desire to keep it going at all. From the outside, it screams "department that was once valued at the company, but has slowly fallen further and further down the priority chain."

 

[d4nimal]

I don't know anything about design or production, but judging from the increasingly limited offerings and frankly difficulty in even navigating to the W&B offerings from the main menu on the website, I'd guess that there is little of any internal desire to keep it going at all. From the outside, it screams "department that was once valued at the company, but has slowly fallen further and further down the priority chain."

Makes me worried about Ralph getting on in years and what would happen to RRL if he was gone. They've made it pretty clear the line is his baby.

 

[StaticProgression]

Makes me worried about Ralph getting on in years and what would happen to RRL if he was gone. They've made it pretty clear the line is his baby.

Take this for what it's worth, but I spoke to a guy who worked in the Vegas RL store, and he is a huge RRL fan, and was saying it's one of their best selling lines, if not the best. Now, how much he could know, who knows, but I found that interesting. I feel like for such a small part of the business, it still must do really well.

Also, @jaaz16 I highly agree it's nearly impossible to find the W&B stuff. If you search it, you get one view of goods, if you filter down from "brands we love", it's another set. Infuriating and a clear mark they don't care anymore IMO.

So to loop back to Todd Snyder, this is where I feel like their stuff comes in. Basically, people looking for W&B type stuff, maybe where that's their main stuff and they aren't into a ton of offbeat clothing and may never be on SF, and the transition of graduating to a curated, full line of pretty good quality basics while still introducing other brands and new styles - Todd basically just picked up that torch. Someone said that earlier I think, and it makes sense. There's a real market for that, and I'm glad someone filled it. It is more pricey though, so it's slightly different.

This is all just theorizing, I own one thrifted TS piece I never wear, so not like I'm a super fan or anything.

 

[Gus]

Makes me worried about Ralph getting on in years and what would happen to RRL if he was gone. They've made it pretty clear the line is his baby.

A friend has been 25+ year supplier to RL and work closely with Ralphs senior staff. His feeling is that when Ralph is gone, most, if not all of the senior team, many who have been with Ralph since the early days, will all take their stock, 401K money and retire to the Hamptons. So, there is a feeling that todays RRL won't be the same. But, is that bad? After all, how many companies that churn out a successful look wake up one day and find out that styles have passed them by? Does RRL, in particular, need a refresh?

 

[Reginald Bartholomew]

A friend has been 25+ year supplier to RL and work closely with Ralphs senior staff. His feeling is that when Ralph is gone, most, if not all of the senior team, many who have been with Ralph since the early days, will all take their stock, 401K money and retire to the Hamptons. So, there is a feeling that todays RRL won't be the same. But, is that bad? After all, how many companies that churn out a successful look wake up one day and find out that styles have passed them by? Does RRL, in particular, need a refresh?

I want the design team to do what they do now but with a **** load more psychedelic drugs, personally. Like, get that feeling like you are watching yourself watch yourself, or that time travel is real, and then design this year's signature western cardigan.

 

['patanoster]

TS have a really great looking black velvet shirt that would be perfect for party season, but i’ll be damned if I’m paying the extra 80 quid taxes to get it shipped to the UK, sadly.

 

[kjb]

since this thread seems to be kinda used for the "i've been thinking about [article of clothing]" type topics.

i've been thinking about rugbies a lot now that's it's cooled down. i think they strike a decent balance between something that's inherently casual but still interesting. i've got a few and want a few more as i reach for these a bunch now.

a lovely knit rugby from fujito

a "quirky prep" one from drake's

a monumental one from 18E

i love them with washed jeans and field coats and sneakers or moc front shoes (loafers, chukkahs, etc).

some other suggestions? anyone had experience with some of the rowing blazers ones?

 

[King Calder]

I like that Fujito one a lot. I wasn't super impressed with the 18 East rugby when I got mine tbh, especially a size up - i didn't look nearly as cool as the lookbook photos imo. I'm not sure how you'd want to wear it - I am more used to wearing long sleeve polos that are trimmer, and think I should have gone TTS on the 18 East one or gone elsewhere.

 

[sood]

since this thread seems to be kinda used for the "i've been thinking about [article of clothing]" type topics.

i've been thinking about rugbies a lot now that's it's cooled down. i think they strike a decent balance between something that's inherently casual but still interesting. i've got a few and want a few more as i reach for these a bunch now.

a lovely knit rugby from fujito
View attachment 1706617

a "quirky prep" one from drake's
View attachment 1706618

a monumental one from 18E
View attachment 1706619

i love them with washed jeans and field coats and sneakers or moc front shoes (loafers, chukkahs, etc).

some other suggestions? anyone had experience with some of the rowing blazers ones?

Current season tss are nice, available at Namu & SSENSE

 

[d4nimal]

A friend has been 25+ year supplier to RL and work closely with Ralphs senior staff. His feeling is that when Ralph is gone, most, if not all of the senior team, many who have been with Ralph since the early days, will all take their stock, 401K money and retire to the Hamptons. So, there is a feeling that todays RRL won't be the same. But, is that bad? After all, how many companies that churn out a successful look wake up one day and find out that styles have passed them by? Does RRL, in particular, need a refresh?

Good points, but the question is if they refreshed/revamped the line, what are the chances it would be as good or better? I think slim. History seems to say that they would probably just water it down for a while and then gut it entirely without someone strong at the helm. To keep a directional line good, I think you need another creative vision like Ralph or Frank Muytjens (there aren't that many who have big names I know of) to fight off the corporate profit streamliners who just want to make more horsey polos.