The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

[#dadcore]

Black tassels and faded denim

 

[EUtroll]

It looks good! But with penny loafers it would've looked even better

 

[Alexidb]

Ok sure. But my point is he had a head like Beaker from the Muppets but still looked stylish in his big suits

if you watch the Stop Making Sense concert video (one of my favorites) when he removes his jacket, his shirt is fitted but his pants are billowy. It’s a good look on his thin frame (even with his small head)

the more extreme versions obviously don’t transfer well to non rockstars

He actually has multiple suits thru the set (it’s actually 3 or 4 nights), the one we think of from SMS, on the concert poster album cover etc. had a frame built into it.
I personally like the way this suit fits:

 

[JJ Katz]

Black tassels and faded denim
View attachment 1339775

brand / model of jeans?

 

[#dadcore]

No idea. Photo from this guys IG

Instagram

instagram.com

 

[Alexidb]

Did you end up figuring out a 'way' for yourself?

When I moved to NYC in 2007 I dived into skinny jeans, sleeveless T-shirts, plaid wrangler shirts, and American Apparel hoodies. I was was biking 13-20 miles each way to teach mechanics to High School kids and really it was ok if I was gross and sweaty and It kinda just fit with that late 2000s zeitgeist.

moving back to Boston I started wearing more techwear and entered what I like to call my LumberGoth phase. Techwear bottoms and base layers with dark flannels etc.

I was lost in the wilderness for a hot minute. I’ve kinda just settled into a uniform of Universal Works/Old Town “suit” ensembles with a bandana as a pop of colour.

 

[CBrown85]

Bespoke vs. high end RTW-- I think I'm glad bespoke exists, but I'd never do it for myself. I'd imagine that pattern cutters working with bespoke makers, or houses that have extensive histories of bespoke, would have greater ability to create a well-fitting RTW suit from that experience.

It reminds me of that study done years ago by the Air Force when they were trying to design the "average" cockpit for jets- they measured pilots dimensions and came to realize that there's no "average" that suits everyone. That's the magic of cutting decent RTW.

 

[dieworkwear]

Bespoke vs. high end RTW-- I think I'm glad bespoke exists, but I'd never do it for myself. I'd imagine that pattern cutters working with bespoke makers, or houses that have extensive histories of bespoke, would have greater ability to create a well-fitting RTW suit from that experience.

It reminds me of that study done years ago by the Air Force when they were trying to design the "average" cockpit for jets- they measured pilots dimensions and came to realize that there's no "average" that suits everyone. That's the magic of cutting decent RTW.

Vox says he's going to a response to that post. I'll publish it on my site.

 

[Bromley]

Vox is like some sort of Tumblr Miss Havisham, and Styleforum was his wedding.

I was recently looking for new eyeglass frames. I'd been combing through a lot of photos of jazz musicians in the '50s and '60s and realized I wanted all of their glasses. Most of the contemporary frame companies I know make stuff with more modern styling, and I was having trouble finding frames that really hit the '50s mark. I was starting to get deep into the googling, learned about the Tart Arnel frames, and then my very next search happened to lead me to this 8-year old Die, Workwear article.

I picked up a decent Tart Arnel copy from an Irish guy who has them made somewhere and sells them on Etsy. The coloration of the acetate doesn't look quite as smooth as the more expensive versions out there, but otherwise the quality is fine. I love wearing them, and so 8 years later, thanks for the recommendation.

 

[CBrown85]

Vox says he's going to a response to that post. I'll publish it on my site.

Well... he's got a room-sized closet full of it. If he can't spot it, there's no hope for any of us.

 

[dieworkwear]

Well... he's got a room-sized closet full of it. If he can't spot it, there's no hope for any of us.

No, his position is that there's definitely a difference.

 

[CBrown85]

No, his position is that there's definitely a difference.

No no- I assumed he did. If he didn't, his closet would be full of RTW.

 

[dieworkwear]

No no- I assumed he did. If he didn't, his closet would be full of RTW.

Ah, got it.

I think the main benefit of a bespoke tailor is that you don't have to do any of the work of figuring out whether something fits, assuming you've found a good bespoke tailor (which is a huge if). Even if you're not a difficult fit off-the-rack, it can take a lot of time and energy to sort through all the stuff on the market.

Feels a bit theoretical to compare the two because you have to assume someone is able to find RTW that fits them well, as well as be able to find a good bespoke tailor. Also, some high-end RTW is just as expensive, if not more so, than bespoke. I saw someone elsewhere ask, "why should someone pay the upcharge for bespoke, then?" But a lot of the high-end RTW that's comparable to bespoke is actually more expensive.

 

[Knurt]

Not having used a bespoke tailor, I may not be in a position to pass judgement. But one of the attractions I have have come to find in taking RTW clothing seriously is taking responsibility myself for fit and comfort. A tailor who can consult and adjust is an absolute necessity. Shop personnel can be of help, but they have several agendas and a variety of experience and knowledge.

 

[CBrown85]

Ah, got it.

I think the main benefit of a bespoke tailor is that you don't have to do any of the work of figuring out whether something fits, assuming you've found a good bespoke tailor (which is a huge if). Even if you're not a difficult fit off-the-rack, it can take a lot of time and energy to sort through all the stuff on the market.

Feels a bit theoretical to compare the two because you have to assume someone is able to find RTW that fits them well, as well as be able to find a good bespoke tailor. Also, some high-end RTW is just as expensive, if not more so, than bespoke. I saw someone elsewhere ask, "why should someone pay the upcharge for bespoke, then?" But a lot of the high-end RTW that's comparable to bespoke is actually more expensive.

That's the big if- years ago, when Vox and Foo were still having at it here, there was a big discussion on how many commissions it takes to truly get benefit from your bespoke tailor. Even then, you might have to bounce around before you have a house style that works for you.

Just surfing on Mr.Porter or going to a fancy mall will show you how absurdly expensive retail tailoring is from the big names. That's the trade-off, though. You pay a lot for a good RTW experience, or you pay with your time and energy going to a bespoke maker. And then, how many people have access to decent makers? The big cities, maybe.

Having never commissioned anything myself, I can only imagine how all of this works- but I'm more than happy to live off of the benefits from the "R and D" of people doing the work on here.