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The Official Dieworkwear Appreciation Thread

UrbanComposition

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I wear RTW Ralph Lauren and love how it fits me. Tailors Keep can lift my right shoulder and adjust the pants rise and I’m happy.

Even so, it doesn’t fit me as well as bespoke, it’s not nearly as fun, and Salvo is comparatively cheap and a great guy, so bespoke it is. OTOH I’ve had a couple jacket’s chest piece attached using the Strobel and I can’t tell the difference at all. Even Salvo has trouble seeing the difference when using heavier fabrics, and he’s probably had a hand in making 100’s of jackets.
 

LA Guy

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Vox says he's going to a response to that post. I'll publish it on my site.
One of our own, @jefferyd , will be co-hosting a series of Styleforum podcasts on technical subjects. For those of you who don't know, Jeffery is both a bespoke tailor and has over 25 years of experience in RTW and MTM, with some of the most storied tailoring businesses in North America.
He is one of the few people here who everyone can agree is eminently qualified to speak to these subjects. I know that he is active on the forum these days, starting an interesting initiative (https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...s-seeking-beta-testers.658069/#post-10050856/)

I suppose that this is as good a place as any to ask if you guys have specific topics that you'd like to hear about (in a 35-45 minute format!) The podcast producers and hosts will ultimately have to decide what will be best four our audience overall, but definitely love to hear suggestions.

Sorry, Derek. Back to the usually scheduled programming.
 

LA Guy

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Stupid mortgage, always getting in my way.
I have three kids, two of whom are competitive athletes, so we spend an inordinate amount on plane tickets and hotel rooms, want to finish paying off the mortgage early (no sense giving the bank more money than absolutely necessary), and doing some home renovation, so I hear your pain. I account for the the kids' activities in terms of leather jackets and man jewelry and Visvim and Hender Scheme sneakers, and the home renovations in vintage watches.

That said, I think that Salvo (who has a thread here still) is doing some Trunk Shows in North America at prices that are pretty accessible compared to the other options. Might be worth checking out. @UrbanComposition should be able to point you in the right post in Salvo's thread.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Who's this Salvo guy?

New tailor @UrbanComposition has helped introduce to the StyleForum community. He helps run a company called I Sarti Italiani. I'm getting a cotton suit made at the moment and, so far, like his work (I don't have the suit, so only judging off of fittings).

Prices are remarkably good, although they're jumping up next year (still lower than any other bespoke tailor visiting the US though). I paid $2,000-ish for a cotton suit. Was recently quoted the same, roughly, for a wool suit. I think they're jumping up to maybe $3,000 next year, but that's still less than the price of a bespoke sport coat nowadays in the US.
 

hoodog

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New tailor @UrbanComposition has helped introduce to the StyleForum community. He helps run a company called I Sarti Italiani. I'm getting a cotton suit made at the moment and, so far, like his work (I don't have the suit, so only judging off of fittings).

Prices are remarkably good, although they're jumping up next year (still lower than any other bespoke tailor visiting the US though). I paid $2,000-ish for a cotton suit. Was recently quoted the same, roughly, for a wool suit. I think they're jumping up to maybe $3,000 next year, but that's still less than the price of a bespoke sport coat nowadays in the US.

Sounds great! Does he have some kind of web page? Other point of contact?
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Sounds great! Does he have some kind of web page? Other point of contact?


 

CBrown85

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New tailor @UrbanComposition has helped introduce to the StyleForum community. He helps run a company called I Sarti Italiani. I'm getting a cotton suit made at the moment and, so far, like his work (I don't have the suit, so only judging off of fittings).

Prices are remarkably good, although they're jumping up next year (still lower than any other bespoke tailor visiting the US though). I paid $2,000-ish for a cotton suit. Was recently quoted the same, roughly, for a wool suit. I think they're jumping up to maybe $3,000 next year, but that's still less than the price of a bespoke sport coat nowadays in the US.

That's more than my entire clothing budget for the year- but I look forward to see what everyone gets out of it!
 

erikvegas

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Ah, got it.

I think the main benefit of a bespoke tailor is that you don't have to do any of the work of figuring out whether something fits, assuming you've found a good bespoke tailor (which is a huge if). Even if you're not a difficult fit off-the-rack, it can take a lot of time and energy to sort through all the stuff on the market.

Feels a bit theoretical to compare the two because you have to assume someone is able to find RTW that fits them well, as well as be able to find a good bespoke tailor. Also, some high-end RTW is just as expensive, if not more so, than bespoke. I saw someone elsewhere ask, "why should someone pay the upcharge for bespoke, then?" But a lot of the high-end RTW that's comparable to bespoke is actually more expensive.
I have no problem with the fit of my RTW suits but my bespoke suits are more comfortable even though they look similar to the viewer . I go bespoke for the fabric , lapel size and button stance and this is, in my opinion, worth the price difference. What I cannot understand is the benefit of a full canvas suit vs half canvas.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Balaclavas are for skiers, commandos, and skiing commandos. If you are not skiing, or a commando, they are not for you.

Now that everyone might die from the coronavirus, balaclavas don't seem that crazy, do they?
 

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

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