The official CELINE thread

[SirGrotius]

The elevation of this thread is remarkable. Great stuff.

 

[DJR]

or people a bit turned off by the vintage pieces, they are actually 40+ years old. The fact that they still look like that (and very unflattering photographed) is a testament to their quality and build. I doubt the Celine counterpart would look that good after the same period or it is built like this inside:

Now I'm not insinuating they're a substitute for the newer pieces, I get exactly why you're a bit turned off. I was trying to prove my point with same examples.

For Mr thorns, Hedi seems a bit of fan J. Park (their jackets were famously worn by Michael Jackson for his music videos beat it and thriller. He also wore them casually). He picked a thing or two from their pieces like for example this shoulder chainmail detail and zipped armholes:

Also, The SL17 (L17) long zipper in the front was added by Hedi. The main design was from a vintage sample.

YSL still using the same pattern for their mens denim that Hedi made. Same for SL01 (L01).

 

[Deonfate]

MJ is such a perfect Hedi poster boy lol

Joking aside judging by the time frame of the photographs, he's probably wearing Dior Homme. He was also very found of Dercarnin's Balmain, he was even tapped to design the costumes for his now canceled tour. Christophe would've been perfect for Saint Laurent after Hedi since both delve into the same circles.

 

[Jabbathecunt]

Thorns is actually Slimane's fake account.

I'm calling Bollshit on this

 

[Jabbathecunt]

What cosmetic issues did you find that warranted multiple exchanges?

Full grain leather is the top of the animal skin without manipulation, It could have wrinkles, or it could have none but it will outlast. I don't mind the imperfections. It adds character!

 

[dreamingnoctis]

For people a bit turned off by the vintage pieces, they are actually 40+ years old. The fact that they still look like that (and very unflattering photographed) is a testament to their quality and build. I doubt the Celine counterpart would look that good after the same period or it is built like this inside:
View attachment 1483638

Now I'm not insinuating they're a substitute for the newer pieces, I get exactly why you're a bit turned off. I was trying to prove my point with same examples.

For Mr thorns, Hedi seems a bit of fan J. Park (their jackets were famously worn by Michael Jackson for his music videos beat it and thriller. He also wore them casually). He picked a thing or two from their pieces like for example this shoulder chainmail detail and zipped armholes:
View attachment 1483639
vs
View attachment 1483640
Also this one was definitely a reference for this jacket from SS20
View attachment 1483643View attachment 1483650

Proportion and fit are a bit updated in same cases, but with the introduction to ease and roominess with Celine cut they're basically the same. Also Hedi is a notorious vintage wearer.

It is funny that Helmut Lang was brought to the conversation because I wanted to talk about him too. He basically introduced the re-working of vintage pieces in the most authentic fashion to ready-to-wear. For example in the nineties, Franco Moschino would do a biker jacket with crystal encrusted studs in supple soft shiny leather. HL would re-work a perfecto from the fifties down to the stitch in the most sober modern way. He fetishizes utilitarianism to the point he sent a bullet proof vest down the runway. I had a previous entry in this very forum how Hedi draws from Helmut not just the slimming of the silhouette or the advertising even the stores and the art curation are very reminiscent of Lang's. People often hail Raf simons as Lang's inheritor but Slimane is a much more loyal and dedicated student.

Lol, I actually have one of those "Beat It" jackets. It's not J. Park, but an imitation of the jacket released presumably around the same time. I'd say it's about the same age/era (early to mid 80's) and is in pretty good condition. I got it from ebay a while back for a pretty low price. It's a neat little curiosity for my collection.

 

[thorns]

I know I rag on the 85 mm heels a lot, but damn do they look sexy for people who feel comfortable in rocking them. The pants and the boots are a match made in heaven.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

I feel like Camargue Biker boot has potential to be a hyped boot. The dangling chain looks a lot more fresh than the harness on the harness Wyatts. The harness being detachable you also get 2 styles in 1. The slightly pointed can also feel more fresh than the chiselled toe of the Wyatts, and it will look better with flares than Wyatts in my mind.
View attachment 1483381
Examples of Camargue Biker worn
View attachment 1483387
View attachment 1483389
View attachment 1483391
View attachment 1483395
View attachment 1483390
View attachment 1483393
View attachment 1483394
View attachment 1483397
vs harness Wyatts
View attachment 1483388
I feel like the harness Wyatts look more conservative and boring. Been there done that kind of thing. That said I am still ride or die with my pairs. Because I'm so used to looking at the Wyatts, the Camargues comparatively do feel fresher and more modern to my eyes.

Here is a picture of the harness being attached onto Berlins.
View attachment 1483386

Although the model is wearing Berlins here, I feel like you can easily sub in the Camargues Biker boot, or strap on the harness, to add more edge. The pointier toe just looks great with flares in my eyes. The higher heel gets balanced by the cutting of the pants.
View attachment 1483396

The increased heel height that Hedi is pursuing at Celine can be intimating for some, but not enough for others. I'm more comfortable at maxing out at 40 mm, personally, with skinny/slim pants. I think for many people who are more fashion forward than I am, the 40 mm height is old news now. The pair on the left is 40 mm and the Carmague Bikers at 50 mm. Puts in wider cuts also helps balance out higher heels and not make it stick out as a sore thumb as much. My personal bias is that skinny jeans will look better on a 40 mm heel and under, and flares would look better on higher heels. However, I can imagine rocking skinny jeans with higher heels, like fw15, just to emphasize the fact that they're wearing heels.
View attachment 1483392

I just saw a woman wearing those same Camargue boots yesterday. She must have gotten them in a smaller men's size, but I knew I recognized them from somewhere. Looked absolutely fantastic.

 

[DJR]

Celine Milan Men’s

 

[Lit Harington]

i'm definitely in the "hedi often takes old designs and improves them" rather than the "hedi is a fraud" camp, but i do like seeing some of the pieces that seem to have inspired him. here's a SL one I remember made the rounds a few years back if anyone hadnt seen it before.

 

[merkwurdigliebe]

I used to look for the original vintage pieces too.

Hein Gericke leather vs. AW15 Runway. Looks like Hedi/the design team added python paneling on the front and made the hardware silver instead of tonal black.

The print from the SS16 Hawaiian shirt also looks similar to this one from a brand called Penney's.

 

[SirGrotius]

Kind of wishing I scored that SS16 Hawaiian shirt. Great examples above. I'm enjoying these comparisons, which to me is a very important part of HS's gesamtkunstwerk to steal Deonfate's word, building on the past, both of the house, but also of the aesthetic to which Hedi is aiming for each season, and I'd imagine, ultimately toward a broader story for the house/brand.

 

[merkwurdigliebe]

Another interesting one is the SS16 moon landing Harrington jacket which looks like it came from this decorative tapestry.

 

[kieran84]

I think I actually prefer the vintage one in this case, from Hedi's Diary:

 

[DJR]

Another interesting one is the SS16 moon landing Harrington jacket which looks like it came from this decorative tapestry.View attachment 1484259View attachment 1484260View attachment 1484261View attachment 1484262

This is just a blatant copy they did. Ridiculous.