SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[hpreston]

So I got the Abraham Moon Heathered Brown Ulster in today. Actual shipping only took a couple days even though it took them over a week to process the order. Very thankful for that, and others here for setting my expectations! I'll take pictures at a later date when I have time to put a whole outfit together, and while I am very pleased with various aspects of the coat, I'm immediately disappointed by how snugly it fits. Based on the sizing charts I was worried it was going to be so big I would have to do significant tailoring to make it fit correctly, but instead, this size 46 overcoat fits exactly like a size 46 suit coat in the chest.. meaning it absolutely doesn't fit over tailoring. I can't even fit the sleeves over my dress shirt sleeves without them bunching half way up my elbows. Unfortunately this was the whole purpose and reason why I sought out SM's coats... Because some of them explicitly said they had room to fit over tailoring. This fits just as snugly as every fashion forward department store overcoat I have ever looked at, and I got the largest size SM offers off the rack.

Questions for you all:

I don't see any seam allowances to increase the size of the sleeves, so is this size indicative of their normal sleeves or was this cut to narrow somehow? I'm attaching pictures of the cuffs which are scrunched on the inside where it seems they have too much material on the inside and not enough outside. Actually rather annoying when wearing and I will probably have to get it altered to fix those if that's not something you guys think I should send it back for.

If I were to return this and order mtm, is there anything I can do about the diameter of the sleeves/cuffs/arm holes?

Assuming nothing can be done about the dimensions of the sleeves, is it worth having my tailor simply remove the lining from the sleeves? Do you think that would make a big enough difference? I tried putting it on over suit coat and the sleeves bunched all the way past the elbows. The cuffs are also so narrow I can't fit my second hand into fish my inner sleeves out so I have to do a whole dance just to get my sleeves aligned correctly.

The only buttonhole I will likely use on this double-breasted coat is so tight, I can barely fit the button through with both hands... Certainly won't be able to operate one-handed with a glove... Is this an SM thing or should I return it or get it altered or will it just wear out with regular use? I certainly don't want to tear it trying to get the button in.

The chest is measuring 46 when the size guide said it should be measuring 51.2... but maybe I'm measuring it wrong. Any advice here?


I love just about everything else about this coat, I'm just worried doesn't serve the function I bought it for, which is to wear it over a suit. Trying to explore every option to keep it I can.

To answer your first question about the sleeves. I’m sour to say that maybe this coat suit won’t work for you.

Widening them at a tailor is likely to be a pricy alteration, as they will have to remove the sleeves from the shoulders, widen, then re attach the shoulder. This is assuming there’s any fabric allowance inside the sleeve. Taking out the lining of the sleeves will make it very difficult to get on and off over a suit or sport coat.

To your second question about the buttonhole, unless there is stitching you can remove inside the buttonhole, it likely wont stretch out with use. Sorry.

No idea about your third question in chest measurement.

 

[twuthetiger]

Does S&M still swap trouser sizes when you buy a suit from them?

 

[Rhodia]

Want to share my experience on a recent MTM suit purchase. I went with Minnis Navy Hopsack. The jacket came in about 1.25" too wide in the chest and waist. The trousers came in about 0.8-1.0" too wide in hip, thigh and leg. For the record, I have been purchasing S&M for over a year now and know their Neo and Standard fits well. That's why I was finally comfortable going MTM using my other S&M suits as a guide of what should be adjusted.

I understand there are tolerances, but the whole point of ordering a MTM suit is so that it comes in with the correct measurements from the get go. If I wanted to fix and tailor a suit, I would have just purchased a RTW version of the same model (for $200 less by the way) and had a tailor make these same fixes. Maybe I am off base, but I am pretty annoyed and expected this to come out better.

An inch and a quarter difference in the chest is the difference of a full size, say 42 vs. 44. That's unacceptable in RTW and certainly no good for MTM. I would be protesting with them. Even assuming you don't care about money and the time it takes to tailor it, I simply would not want a sportcoat tailored down in the chest by that much.

So I got the Abraham Moon Heathered Brown Ulster in today. Actual shipping only took a couple days even though it took them over a week to process the order. Very thankful for that, and others here for setting my expectations! I'll take pictures at a later date when I have time to put a whole outfit together, and while I am very pleased with various aspects of the coat, I'm immediately disappointed by how snugly it fits. Based on the sizing charts I was worried it was going to be so big I would have to do significant tailoring to make it fit correctly, but instead, this size 46 overcoat fits exactly like a size 46 suit coat in the chest.. meaning it absolutely doesn't fit over tailoring. I can't even fit the sleeves over my dress shirt sleeves without them bunching half way up my elbows. Unfortunately this was the whole purpose and reason why I sought out SM's coats... Because some of them explicitly said they had room to fit over tailoring. This fits just as snugly as every fashion forward department store overcoat I have ever looked at, and I got the largest size SM offers off the rack.

Questions for you all:

I don't see any seam allowances to increase the size of the sleeves, so is this size indicative of their normal sleeves or was this cut to narrow somehow? I'm attaching pictures of the cuffs which are scrunched on the inside where it seems they have too much material on the inside and not enough outside. Actually rather annoying when wearing and I will probably have to get it altered to fix those if that's not something you guys think I should send it back for.

If I were to return this and order mtm, is there anything I can do about the diameter of the sleeves/cuffs/arm holes?

Assuming nothing can be done about the dimensions of the sleeves, is it worth having my tailor simply remove the lining from the sleeves? Do you think that would make a big enough difference? I tried putting it on over suit coat and the sleeves bunched all the way past the elbows. The cuffs are also so narrow I can't fit my second hand into fish my inner sleeves out so I have to do a whole dance just to get my sleeves aligned correctly.

The only buttonhole I will likely use on this double-breasted coat is so tight, I can barely fit the button through with both hands... Certainly won't be able to operate one-handed with a glove... Is this an SM thing or should I return it or get it altered or will it just wear out with regular use? I certainly don't want to tear it trying to get the button in.

The chest is measuring 46 when the size guide said it should be measuring 51.2... but maybe I'm measuring it wrong. Any advice here?


I love just about everything else about this coat, I'm just worried doesn't serve the function I bought it for, which is to wear it over a suit. Trying to explore every option to keep it I can.

Chest measurements on the Ulster (and any garment) should be pit-to-pit. So are you saying it measures 23" PTP? If so, that's certainly well under the 51.2 (so basically 25.5") that SM quotes in their charts.

If you bought it to wear over tailoring, why keep it? Letting out is always more of an issue than taking in, and that's major surgery on outwear. I would move on.

 

[Zaxxon8]

An inch and a quarter difference in the chest is the difference of a full size, say 42 vs. 44. That's unacceptable in RTW and certainly no good for MTM. I would be protesting with them. Even assuming you don't care about money and the time it takes to tailor it, I simply would not want a sportcoat tailored down in the chest by that much.


Chest measurements on the Ulster (and any garment) should be pit-to-pit. So are you saying it measures 23" PTP? If so, that's certainly well under the 51.2 (so basically 25.5") that SM quotes in their charts.

If you bought it to wear over tailoring, why keep it? Letting out is always more of an issue than taking in, and that's major surgery on outwear. I would move on.

Actually, yes, I just measured it. The coat is pleated in the back, the fabric has a natural stretch, and the seam isn't exactly in the center of the armpit, but even at my best stretch it's only barely hitting 24in on the exterior measurement. I think it probably is between 23 and 24.

 

[tmckay2]

Does S&M still swap trouser sizes when you buy a suit from them?

Yes but only if they have them in stock obviously

 

[ericgereghty]

Actually, yes, I just measured it. The coat is pleated in the back, the fabric has a natural stretch, and the seam isn't exactly in the center of the armpit, but even at my best stretch it's only barely hitting 24in on the exterior measurement. I think it probably is between 23 and 24.

They may have just shat the bed, from the sound of it. I had an SC that also had a misplaced center seam amongst other issues. I'd hit up CS. This may well just be a defective item, rather than the norm for their Ulsters.

 

[SuaveStyle]

I also just received the navy M&E Ulster and was surprised to find the shoulders and chest to be only a half size bigger than my polo coat from two years prior. The waist is not nearly as suppressed and trim compared to the polo coat though. For reference, I am a 42 contemporary but have been needing to size up to 44 with the heavier tweeds the past two years due to tightness in the chest and shoulders. I took a size 42 in the Ulster (last one left, sold out in 44). So if you’re finding yourself in between sizes I would consider getting it in the larger size.

Also, anyone have IRL pics of the Minnis brown chalk stripe DB suit? Would like to see the true color of the fabric in the wild

 

[c689]

Yes but only if they have them in stock obviously

How can I make such request? Before or After I place the order?

 

[DonRaphael]

How can I make such request? Before or After I place the order?

Write on the notes which size you want to swap the trousers for. Or order the full suit plus the desired trousers and ask for a refund for one pair of trousers.

 

[SmoothLefty]

Marling Evans MTO fit pics as shared a couple of pages back 'on the hanger'.

Sample cloth picked up from the mill last year, 50% shetland 50% lambswool, lowered button stance, natural but roped shoulder, neo cut.

View attachment 2104109 View attachment 2104103 View attachment 2104107 View attachment 2104105 View attachment 2104111 View attachment 2104113 View attachment 2104115

Are those flannel trousers also S&M?

 

[capablebedroom]

Actually, yes, I just measured it. The coat is pleated in the back, the fabric has a natural stretch, and the seam isn't exactly in the center of the armpit, but even at my best stretch it's only barely hitting 24in on the exterior measurement. I think it probably is between 23 and 24.

This definitely sounds like a product defect; the size 42 Ulster (M&E navy twill) I purchased has the same chest measurement—slightly under 24 inches.

 

[Zaxxon8]

This definitely sounds like a product defect; the size 42 Ulster (M&E navy twill) I purchased has the same chest measurement—slightly under 24 inches.

Thank you!

 

[dapperclassic]

Are those flannel trousers also S&M?

No, they are MTM from elsewhere.

 

[lindenbaum]

For those who may be interested in the denim suit from Spier & Mackay. I am still deciding whether I keep or return it. It seems too casual for my work environment but CAD 360 (including tax) is unbeatable! The pants show the real color better.

 

[St1X]

Did anyone managed to get the weight of the fabric for this Ulster coat from S&M? https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/navy-heavy-twill---ulster-coat-8167-ulst
I will not buy a winter overcoat without knowing the fabric weight