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sdjackofclubs

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Rhodia

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Long-time lurker. Hello everyone.

I wanted to chime in on the trouser fit question from a week or so ago. Some of the athletic-bodied gentlemen were mentioning fit issues with the SM high-rise trousers (I lift weights, therefore I too have a butt and legs). Unfortunately, I've run into the same issue. Flat fronts are fine (I'm wearing my fresco from SS22 right now), but I recently dove into the pleated game. They simply do NOT work for me.

It seems that the higher rise in the pleated trousers are not compensated for in the rear. I did an experiment: The measurements of the BACK rise seems to be virtually the same for both the flat front and the high-rise. Hence, for me, the rise, um...goes up my backside.

Anyone else experienced this issue? I now have two pairs of 36 Contemporary in the charcoal sharkskin and brown herringbone that are unwearable for my body type. Going to have to sell. Very unfortunate. Beautiful cloths.
 

JayDee90

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Long-time lurker. Hello everyone.

I wanted to chime in on the trouser fit question from a week or so ago. Some of the athletic-bodied gentlemen were mentioning fit issues with the SM high-rise trousers (I lift weights, therefore I too have a butt and legs). Unfortunately, I've run into the same issue. Flat fronts are fine (I'm wearing my fresco from SS22 right now), but I recently dove into the pleated game. They simply do NOT work for me.

It seems that the higher rise in the pleated trousers are not compensated for in the rear. I did an experiment: The measurements of the BACK rise seems to be virtually the same for both the flat front and the high-rise. Hence, for me, the rise, um...goes up my backside.

Anyone else experienced this issue? I now have two pairs of 36 Contemporary in the charcoal sharkskin and brown herringbone that are unwearable for my body type. Going to have to sell. Very unfortunate. Beautiful cloths.
This has been brought up before and the patterns hasn't really changed. Even in MTM I recall them using a U-rise measurement rather than an independent front and back. OTR is still wearable for me if I size up and alter the waist but not ideal. I am hoping this perhaps gets fixed with this sometimes mentioned new "classic" fit?
 

Rhodia

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U-rise measurement! Thank you for this. I was not aware of that.

My OTR size of 36 also needs the waist taken in just slightly. I fear any Classic fit would be too big everywhere else, although perhaps it would be more balanced (I can get into a 35 Contemporary were other measurements adjusted).

Has anyone found a higher-rise trouser that accommodates the back rise-backside problem?
 

Rhodia

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This has been brought up before and the patterns hasn't really changed. Even in MTM I recall them using a U-rise measurement rather than an independent front and back. OTR is still wearable for me if I size up and alter the waist but not ideal. I am hoping this perhaps gets fixed with this sometimes mentioned new "classic" fit?

Sorry @JayDee90. I thought I quoted you. It's been a while.
 

JayDee90

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Sorry @JayDee90. I thought I quoted you. It's been a while.
All good! it looks like we are dealing with the same issue, in the same size! I too am really a 35 C but size up to 36 C and alter the waist..The tough part is finding another local (I am TO based) vendor that offers a similar price/quality ratio. Shipping and duties can add up quick...
 

milktoast

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Really dig the suggestion from @An Acute Style to post reviews on the website. However, can we use them for good? And what I really mean by that is: review all the OCBDs and include “still prefer their lightweight OCBDs” or “would be better if it came in a lightweight option.”

Just my 2 cents here.
 

ericgereghty

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Long-time lurker. Hello everyone.

I wanted to chime in on the trouser fit question from a week or so ago. Some of the athletic-bodied gentlemen were mentioning fit issues with the SM high-rise trousers (I lift weights, therefore I too have a butt and legs). Unfortunately, I've run into the same issue. Flat fronts are fine (I'm wearing my fresco from SS22 right now), but I recently dove into the pleated game. They simply do NOT work for me.

It seems that the higher rise in the pleated trousers are not compensated for in the rear. I did an experiment: The measurements of the BACK rise seems to be virtually the same for both the flat front and the high-rise. Hence, for me, the rise, um...goes up my backside.

Anyone else experienced this issue? I now have two pairs of 36 Contemporary in the charcoal sharkskin and brown herringbone that are unwearable for my body type. Going to have to sell. Very unfortunate. Beautiful cloths.
Interesting. Hadn't considered this at all, but makes perfect sense, as my issues are about the exact same. My "fix" is wearing the trews a bitttttt lower than ideal, which, obviously is not ideal, but good enough.
That said, regrettably, only good enough for suits. Odd trousers are no longer viable, if I'm being honest with myself.
 

Gil_Pender

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Day 8 for me...
It seems 2-3 weeks is "normal" processing time for SM.....and only SM. That said, my last order shipped in 4 business days (ordered on Dec 26). They recently sent an email saying they have resolved the shipping time and return time issues......
 

alkydrinker

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Did anyone try out the linen field jackets from last summer? One just came back in stock in my size and I'm strongly considering it. I need something to wear on the Camino de Santiago this summer and I wonder if it would be appropriate. I need something breathable for sure. If anyone can tell me their experience with the weave, the fit, or anything else about these jackets, I would be most appreciative.

edit: The size chart gives me serious pause. I wear a 38 Slim in their sportcoats, but the 38 field jacket seems like it would be extremely oversized on me. A 43.5" chest on a 38 is crazy, right?

I got one and really like the fit. Nothing weird or unexpected and the fit is very accurate to the posted measurements. I'm at the other end of the sizing spectrum than you...my perfect MTM size with S&M is 43L, so I rounded up to an XL/44 field jacket and love the fit. A little relaxed, but not oversized. The overall weave and weight of the linen is nice, and feels perfectly appropriate for the piece. Not too wrinkle-prone for 100% linen.

Attached is (1) someone else's pic I saved when I was still considering buying one, and (2) a pic of mine with the collar pressed to lay open like a lapel or camp collar.
 

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Rhodia

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Interesting. Hadn't considered this at all, but makes perfect sense, as my issues are about the exact same. My "fix" is wearing the trews a bitttttt lower than ideal, which, obviously is not ideal, but good enough.
That said, regrettably, only good enough for suits. Odd trousers are no longer viable, if I'm being honest with myself.

Just as a more precise explanation: The additional inch of front rise (from around 11" on the FF to 12" on the HR) means when I wear the trousers near my natural waist, the back rise is very constricting. I measured some other older mid-rise trousers from other brands that are only 10.5" in the front, and even they have a 14" back rise.

Btw, I've found this article eminently useful for considering alternatives. And, more importantly, for realizing not all brands suit all men. Fortunately, my SM Sportcoat from this season is spot on.

 

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