SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[stuffedsuperdud]

Fair criticism, there have definitely been some shonky releases on the non-tailored side.

But as long as their core products remain strong I'm happy. I like tailoring but I can't wear it most days, I appreciate that S&M are making retro basics as well like the knit polos or waxed cotton jackets. These are hard to find at a good price range because most brands that make 'classic' styles are smaller and charge a higher premium. Since shops like Samuel Windsor have gone under and BB has gone to ****, I do want a shop I can rely on for everything from tailoring to smart basics. I hope that can be S&M.

I don't think it is necessarily fast fashion to release non-tailored clothing, though I do wish S&M would settle on a range of core products. Everything is so seasonal now and I hate how we have to wait for normal products that most shops would have year round. S&M releases a product line and it sells out in a month, then we have to wait another year.

Their release schedule is indeed erratic and not enough items are perennial, but I think that can also be considered a feature for these smaller more nimble companies. When COVID shut the world down, SM was able to do a quick pivot, whereas the big boys were left with 2 years of inventory rotting in their warehouse. My guess is they're taking some time to figure out what IS perennial, and then things will stabilize from there.

I don't think casuals in themselves are "fast fashion" of course, but some of this stuff was clearly cheaply made and priced to move, which to me is a waste of money and bad for the world. There's no doubt that in general SM is a great resource with a sweet quality: price ratio, but this recent stuff is a miss. I'm not made of money or anything, but my wardrobe is at the point where I can get by with adding 1-2 items every year for every 2-3 that wears out and still be good to go, and I think this is probably true for many of us, so I am not opposed to them charging a bit more if it puts the casuals in the same solid league as their tailoring.

 

[Dane_in_US]

Hi All,
I hope some of you experienced style and fit experts can help me with some advice. Long story short: I lost everything including my wardrobe in the wildfires in California. Then Covid hit and I didn't feel the need to go out and buy new suits - but now travel is coming back as part of my job and I purchased 5 suits at once from S&M due to this thread and the feedback you guys have shared. I bought an English Cut, Neo Cut, Neapolitan, and a "standard" cut.

Now to the problem statement - all of them display a pretty bad (ranging from bad to very bad) collar gap as you can see in the pictures. I assume it's either the balance of the suit or the shoulder slope that just doesn't work with my body composition. I have to say: the rest of the suit is really nice. These are all 38L and the rest of the fit is spot on and super clean for a RTW option.

I took a couple of the suits to my local alterations tailor and she said "no way, I can fix that" - too complicated.

Do any of you know or have experience with S&M's MTO option - is that something they can correct? (I have reached out to S&M as well via email but I figured I would ask you guys as well) Other ideas? Or is it a case of: "You either find a different brand or go bespoke, Sir"

Any points of view or thoughts/recommendations are welcome...

Thanks a ton in advance!

 

[jimrude]

Sizing question for anyone who might be able to help:

What is the difference in front rise between high-waisted trousers and “regular” trousers, if both were, say, a size 36 contemporary?

I’m trying to determine how “high” the rise is on the regular dress trousers.

Thanks in advance

 

[breakaway01]

Hi All,
I hope some of you experienced style and fit experts can help me with some advice. Long story short: I lost everything including my wardrobe in the wildfires in California. Then Covid hit and I didn't feel the need to go out and buy new suits - but now travel is coming back as part of my job and I purchased 5 suits at once from S&M due to this thread and the feedback you guys have shared. I bought an English Cut, Neo Cut, Neapolitan, and a "standard" cut.


Now to the problem statement - all of them display a pretty bad (ranging from bad to very bad) collar gap as you can see in the pictures. I assume it's either the balance of the suit or the shoulder slope that just doesn't work with my body composition. I have to say: the rest of the suit is really nice. These are all 38L and the rest of the fit is spot on and super clean for a RTW option.

I took a couple of the suits to my local alterations tailor and she said "no way, I can fix that" - too complicated.

Do any of you know or have experience with S&M's MTO option - is that something they can correct? (I have reached out to S&M as well via email but I figured I would ask you guys as well) Other ideas? Or is it a case of: "You either find a different brand or go bespoke, Sir"

Any points of view or thoughts/recommendations are welcome...

Thanks a ton in advance!

sorry to hear about the fires—glad you yourself were safe.
Do you have very square shoulders? Have you had this issue with other RTW tailored jackets?

 

[sydneycider]

Sizing question for anyone who might be able to help:

What is the difference in front rise between high-waisted trousers and “regular” trousers, if both were, say, a size 36 contemporary?

I’m trying to determine how “high” the rise is on the regular dress trousers.

Thanks in advance

High rise is an inch taller than the regular.

S&Ms high rise is not super high, the top of the waistband hits about a thumb space below my belly button.

 

[gonnagetmine]

Hi All,
I hope some of you experienced style and fit experts can help me with some advice. Long story short: I lost everything including my wardrobe in the wildfires in California. Then Covid hit and I didn't feel the need to go out and buy new suits - but now travel is coming back as part of my job and I purchased 5 suits at once from S&M due to this thread and the feedback you guys have shared. I bought an English Cut, Neo Cut, Neapolitan, and a "standard" cut.
View attachment 1782706
View attachment 1782707
Now to the problem statement - all of them display a pretty bad (ranging from bad to very bad) collar gap as you can see in the pictures. I assume it's either the balance of the suit or the shoulder slope that just doesn't work with my body composition. I have to say: the rest of the suit is really nice. These are all 38L and the rest of the fit is spot on and super clean for a RTW option.

I took a couple of the suits to my local alterations tailor and she said "no way, I can fix that" - too complicated.

Do any of you know or have experience with S&M's MTO option - is that something they can correct? (I have reached out to S&M as well via email but I figured I would ask you guys as well) Other ideas? Or is it a case of: "You either find a different brand or go bespoke, Sir"

Any points of view or thoughts/recommendations are welcome...

Thanks a ton in advance!

Pics with and without the jacket, same distance from camera, to see your shoulders may help. I, too, think they are extra square but can't quite tell. Adjusting the shoulder slope on MTO may help. I know you said everywhere else fits, but jacket may be too big. You have a pretty thin neck it seems, which doesn't help. As for those jackets, gap would bother me enough that I would return.

Curious--did your previous jackets have gaps?

 

[masernaut]

Hi All,
I hope some of you experienced style and fit experts can help me with some advice. Long story short: I lost everything including my wardrobe in the wildfires in California. Then Covid hit and I didn't feel the need to go out and buy new suits - but now travel is coming back as part of my job and I purchased 5 suits at once from S&M due to this thread and the feedback you guys have shared. I bought an English Cut, Neo Cut, Neapolitan, and a "standard" cut.
View attachment 1782706
View attachment 1782707
Now to the problem statement - all of them display a pretty bad (ranging from bad to very bad) collar gap as you can see in the pictures. I assume it's either the balance of the suit or the shoulder slope that just doesn't work with my body composition. I have to say: the rest of the suit is really nice. These are all 38L and the rest of the fit is spot on and super clean for a RTW option.

I took a couple of the suits to my local alterations tailor and she said "no way, I can fix that" - too complicated.

Do any of you know or have experience with S&M's MTO option - is that something they can correct? (I have reached out to S&M as well via email but I figured I would ask you guys as well) Other ideas? Or is it a case of: "You either find a different brand or go bespoke, Sir"

Any points of view or thoughts/recommendations are welcome...

Thanks a ton in advance!

It doesn't look like the collar gap is an issue. It's a sizing issue. The suit is too big.

 

[XxLogo]

It doesn't look like the collar gap is an issue. It's a sizing issue. The suit is too big.

I agree, it looks like it is a size or two too big. @Dane_in_US have you measured yourself with a tailors tape? Highly recommend doing that

 

[taxgenius]

It doesn't look like the collar gap is an issue. It's a sizing issue. The suit is too big.

It’s also possible that the “cut” isn’t for him regardless of size. I tried one sport coat in my regular size 40R and came to that conclusion, unfortunately.

 

[Jlee80]

Hi All,
I hope some of you experienced style and fit experts can help me with some advice. Long story short: I lost everything including my wardrobe in the wildfires in California. Then Covid hit and I didn't feel the need to go out and buy new suits - but now travel is coming back as part of my job and I purchased 5 suits at once from S&M due to this thread and the feedback you guys have shared. I bought an English Cut, Neo Cut, Neapolitan, and a "standard" cut.
View attachment 1782706
View attachment 1782707
Now to the problem statement - all of them display a pretty bad (ranging from bad to very bad) collar gap as you can see in the pictures. I assume it's either the balance of the suit or the shoulder slope that just doesn't work with my body composition. I have to say: the rest of the suit is really nice. These are all 38L and the rest of the fit is spot on and super clean for a RTW option.

I took a couple of the suits to my local alterations tailor and she said "no way, I can fix that" - too complicated.

Do any of you know or have experience with S&M's MTO option - is that something they can correct? (I have reached out to S&M as well via email but I figured I would ask you guys as well) Other ideas? Or is it a case of: "You either find a different brand or go bespoke, Sir"

Any points of view or thoughts/recommendations are welcome...

Thanks a ton in advance!

My opinion, I think the suit is just too big. I’ve had really good luck with the MTO program. If you can wait the 8-10 weeks, I’d go that route.

 

[dapperclassic]

Anyone tried the high rise shorts yet? If so thoughts on the fabric and fit? I heard that a size up may be needed on them.

 

[Dane_in_US]

First of all - thank you all for the input. I've been in touch with S&M MTO today as well.

sorry to hear about the fires—glad you yourself were safe.
Do you have very square shoulders? Have you had this issue with other RTW tailored jackets?

I do have very square shoulders - and yes, I've had similar issues with a few other RTW options I've tried. Historically I lived in Hong Kong for 7 years earlier and went bespoke as a natural thing to do while I was there - and very cost efficient. So, I don't have a ton of experience in RTW - I didn't go bespoke back then bc of fit issues - I just did it bc it was easy and affordable.

Pics with and without the jacket, same distance from camera, to see your shoulders may help. I, too, think they are extra square but can't quite tell. Adjusting the shoulder slope on MTO may help. I know you said everywhere else fits, but jacket may be too big. You have a pretty thin neck it seems, which doesn't help. As for those jackets, gap would bother me enough that I would return.
Curious--did your previous jackets have gaps?

It’s also possible that the “cut” isn’t for him regardless of size. I tried one sport coat in my regular size 40R and came to that conclusion, unfortunately.

After having spoken to S&M MTO, the concluded that the sizing seems right given my other measurements - but that the fit (or my body) has two issues: They assume the neck to be wider in a 38L than what my neck actually is - and they assume more drop in the shoulder.

I am actually very pleased with their recommendation of not trying to fix all of that with MTO - that seems super honest and straight to me. I'd rather hear that, than end up with a "FrankenSuit" (like the one SuSu is trying to create for me right now through their custom program - but that's a whole other story .

Back to the drawing board - I think I might give Huntsman NY and Cad and the Dandy NY a try... I had just hoped that I could find something good at $500 instead of shelling out a multiple of that.

 

[chatelet]

Anyone tried the high rise shorts yet? If so thoughts on the fabric and fit? I heard that a size up may be needed on them.

Yes, my 32 contemporary feels like a 31. Thighs are cut a little slim but wearable. I would size up given they have side tabs and so can be tightened easily.

I have the cream. Fabric is nice, not too transparent. Waistband is beautifully constructed.

 

[ericgereghty]

Some love for the tailored gear…

 

[dapperclassic]

Yes, my 32 contemporary feels like a 31. Thighs are cut a little slim but wearable. I would size up given they have side tabs and so can be tightened easily.

I have the cream. Fabric is nice, not too transparent. Waistband is beautifully constructed.

Great, thank you. Would you be able to measure the leg opening and thigh please on your 32? Just trying to work out how much they deviate from the measurements on the website.