1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roy, Jun 23, 2011.

  1. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    I was a little absent because I was traveling but now I want to show the other photos I had taken from Bestetti. I could not believe my eyes but I had to think again because these images are of a boots in a single piece of leather. And I had never seen. I had seen the shoe in a single piece of leather boots but I never saw anyone.

    Ye have seen somewhere else? Who has already produced?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And look at that form ... it looks like a Formula 1 car out of the wind tunnel.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,195
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2011
  3. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    Yeah...those are awesome!!
     
  4. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    uh oh...i just saw on his blog...

    that is a completely seamless boot.

    WOW...didn't know he could do that.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2014
  5. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    It is fantastic true ... I've never seen a single piece of leather boots a ... because I think it is much more difficult to do. Does anyone know if it has already done some other craftsman?
     
  6. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    I'm pretty sure Gaziano & Girling has done this before on a boot
     
  7. Roy

    Roy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,051
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2004
    Location:
    Amsterdam
    Here Riccardo damaged the side of the shoe when finishing the sole:
    [​IMG]

    I think the toe puff here isn’t long enough which causes creasing at a weird spot:
    [​IMG]

    Here Riccardo didn’t the finish the sole of the shoe in a good way:
    [​IMG]

    This is my loafer, which has seen very little wear. When I first got it, it ripped right away. So Riccardo put in some extra leather and restitched it. Also the leather shows a lot of wear imho for a shoe that isn’t worn very much. Keep in mind I have lasted shoe trees and take care of my shoes well!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is my De La Vega model. Here too he damaged the side of the shoe when finishing.
    [​IMG]

    All-in all I still think it is a gorgeous pair of shoes:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Per comparison:
    A pair of blake RTW Santoni’s I’ve bought while still in college in 2000.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    If you look at the Santoni, it has a slight toe spring. Where as Riccardos shoes always are flat on the ground. I Think when walking with a toe spring, it creates less creasing. My Edward Green and other shoes with toe spring crease less I have found.
     
  8. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

    Messages:
    1,630
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2012
    Location:
    right here, for now
    So, Riccardo could build the shoe with toe spring but just chooses not to ?
     
  9. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,238
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2008
    Location:
    The Highlands of Central Oregon
    

    Every last has a set toe spring. You'd need a last with a higher toe spring to build a shoe with a higher toe spring.

    The low toe spring look goes way back. You can see it in 18th and 19th century shoes and boots. Theoretically, the low toe spring makes sense on this boot with its higher heel. The theory is that the lower the heel height the more toe spring you need to reduce creasing.


    W.D. Attewell, maker--1844, all hand sewn morocco

    [​IMG]

    --
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2014
    2 people like this.
  10. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,064
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    Where can I get a pair of those boots?
     
  11. Roy

    Roy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,051
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2004
    Location:
    Amsterdam
    

    Riccardo started off as a bootmaker.

    And I think DFW is one too :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2014
  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

    Messages:
    11,982
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2008
    
    looks nice
     
  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    His cowboy boots heritage really shows at his lasts and the construction of pegging instead of blind welting waist.
     
  14. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    

    I have a couple of Bestetti MTO after their two years on their backs but are perfect aesthetic level. The skin and finishes are unchanged from when I went to pick them up. And this means great quality in material and workmanship. What is certain is that they are very jealous of everything I wear. Then couldn't treat it that way my shoes or whatever I can wear. None of my shoes is so ruined. ... not even those sneakers:):)
     
  15. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    

    Of course, Richard can building all you want. My advice is to choose a high Tip 5 mm off the ground so you don't have any kind of fold where your foot bends. And so your will be perfect to all eyes that ta will be watching.
     
  16. meister

    meister Senior member

    Messages:
    7,321
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    

    RM Williams had done it since 1930s in Australia.
     
  17. meister

    meister Senior member

    Messages:
    7,321
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2007
    

    This shows the point isshi makes about how good Santonis are. The finish on that instep in the Bestettis is pretty crap.
     
  18. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,195
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2011
    

    Yes, some mistakes there definitely. And agree that the leather on the loafers doesn't seem to be of perfect quality.



    Thanks!



    RM Williams have done wholecut boots, and many others as well. But a seamless wholecut boot is a completely different story.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2014
  19. Roy

    Roy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,051
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2004
    Location:
    Amsterdam
    

    I still like my shoes Riccardo made for me. As I said before, they are very comfortable. And I polish them regularly so people who see them just see a beautiful pair of shoes. But up close and personal the finishing certainly isn't perfect.

    But you must have Santoni sneakers too! Because mine show virtually no wear :)


    Yes that was somewhat disappointing. If it was any other shoemaker than Riccardo we wouldn't have accepted this. Some of his other clients and I just said, it's his rustic finishing. Because even with the finishing flaws the shoes still were stunning!

    What I am most disappointed about is the long term wear of some of my shoes. Like the loafers. Others hold beautifully , with very good leather. But the loafers and the Iguana have some weird effect after a few years of wear. That is what kind of got under my skin. It's very easy to make something look good when it is brand new. But quality shines through after some use. And the leather quality simply is not always there.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2014
  20. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

    Messages:
    2,226
    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2011
    Location:
    Finland
    Roy, so you haven't asked for compensation for these weird creases on the loafers and unfinished finishing on other shoes?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by