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Riccardo Bestetti Bespoke projects.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roy, Jun 23, 2011.

  1. cgo

    cgo Well-Known Member

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    I meant "established" RTW
     
  2. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    And thats the original question: Vass or Bestetti Blake.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. SoGent

    SoGent Well-Known Member

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    right here, for now
    Quote:
    brand whoring or quality whoring, it can be labeled whatever trips your trigger.
    in my opinion, it's comparing apples to oranges anyway.

    vass make excellent 'work horse' shoes as in understated workplace staples. Bestetti, on the other hand, are
    characters with 'pop' or soul if you will and can be acceptable in virtually any work environment.

    when I made the earlier statement that value was way beyond cost, it's the value a shoe, suit, shirt or tie
    brings to the OP's situation whether it be work or casual or something that can work for either.

    Vass can work for the boardroom but won't send the same message used for a casual, fun night out
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  4. vriche

    vriche Well-Known Member

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    I really appreciate everyone's take on this. I had no idea when I asked the question that it would generate such good dialogue. The good thing for me is I'm really in no rush to make a decision, I just wanted to hear from others with more hands on experience than me. Cheers! [​IMG]
     
  5. Roy

    Roy Well-Known Member

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    Amsterdam
    

    When I have my camera back, I will make some comparison shots between my bespoke Bestetti's and RTW Edward Green. There is more creasing with the Bestetti shoes, even though I've worn the Edward Green more often.

    The fit however is incredible, so is the comfort. I love Riccardo's creativity. So it is a trade-off. It could very well be that his uppers are thin compared to the English makers. So you trade comfort for aging well. I'm lucky enough to have both in my closet.

    I am 100% happy with any of my Bestetti shoes. Riccardo is a pleasure to deal with. He gets what I want every single time. But for me, he is a bespoke maker. To me, his biggest strength is in his last making and interpreting personal requests. RTW there are other offerings out there.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  6. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    I don't feel creasing is a good sole indicator for leather quality. Most often than not, creases are different due to differences in personal fit rather than leather quality.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Roy

    Roy Well-Known Member

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    It's not the only issue, by far. But you'll see when I post comparison pictures.

    Although with bespoke shoes, as mine are, the difference in fit should not be there. After all, they are made for me. Not on some generic last.
     
  8. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    Were you fitted in person? Not sure if bestetti even does online bespoke ala kielman, but just curious. What about test shoes?

    Wasn't implying the leather isn't inferior, just that using that as the only parameter isn't the best idea in general
     
  9. Roy

    Roy Well-Known Member

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    Yes I have been to Vigevano and he has been at my house even. He has had several trunk shows in Amsterdam. So it hasn't been an online deal.

    Don't get the impression I am not happy with my shoes anymore. I still like them as much as the day I've got them. But I don't like it when people can not see any flaws anymore just because Bestetti (or any other maker) made them.

    To me, that is why you get a handmade shoe, you will get something with great character and as somebody earlier said, soul. Because Riccardo literally puts his soul in his shoes. That's why I said I don't see the value of his RTW line. To me, he is a bespoke maker. That is where his personal value comes in the best.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    I understand your points. Looking forward to the pictures.

    Personally, I'm not a fan of the RTW shoes in questions as I don't see the value in paying that much for Blake stitch. Makers like gravati and sutor already fill that niche quite well for a lot less.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  11. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Roy: Thanks, looking forward to seeing pics.

    Regarding creasing, Justin FitzPatrick wrote about it some time ago, that English makers use a thicker leather than makers from e.g. Italy and France, and that they crease less than the thinner leathers. I hadn't thought about it before, but I think he is right, although it is a generalisation. Bottom line is that creases in some cases doesn't need to mean bad fit or inferior leather.


    I don't think he does full bespoke on distance, though ordering Novecento by mail is pretty similar to Kielman internet bespoke, but including test shoe. You just can't make too big changes to his original lasts.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  12. Roy

    Roy Well-Known Member

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    I think Riccardo also uses more of any skin than he should. He uses good skins, but even good skins have imperfect parts. I have the feeling he not always selects the best pieces of leather available out of any particular skin.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    For his RTW and MTO that might be true, but my Novecento and every other pair of Novecento and full bespoke I've seen has been absolute top grade leather all around.

    Here's two recent pics of my pair, very heavily worn since I got them six months ago:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  14. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    ^
    you have seen
    much much
    less than roy


    he and his brother
    have almost 10
    bespoke between
    them
     
  15. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely, and I just wrote about the one's I've seen and experienced. I've been asking him for his opinion (and yours), just because I know that he has a lot of experience.

    Do you have anything against me T4? You always respond in a bit of an annoyed way to me.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  16. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    ^
    you maybe
    mistaking my
    writing style

    but as an
    nb
    when you replied
    to counter roy's
    theory
    (based on his
    ample experience
    with his bespoke footwear)
    by suggesting
    that it maybe possible
    in mto and rtw
    but not in what
    you have seen

    is a bit
    off to me
     
  17. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    T4: Okay, I understand. Yes, was a bit surprised by his theory, only because my experience (even if it's much less) is that his bespoke and Novecento has great leather all around. But I wasn't saying that Roy was wrong at all, just that my experience differed.
     
  18. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    ^
    look at his
    latest shoe
    on his blog
     
  19. chogall

    chogall Well-Known Member

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    Or they just skipped skiving or splitting leathers to reduce the thickness for comfort.
     
  20. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think makers or factories split or skive the whole parts of finished tanned leathers. They skive the edges, but don't change the overall thickness, I think.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2014

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