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Review of Archibald London Tan Anticato Cap-Toed Oxfords

Noblekostas

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I am going to speak with Archibald about this personally and put a big caveat on the front page till this is resolved.

If this isn't resolved, I'm going to video tape myself throwing these in the dumpster.
Send them to someone to dissect them properly. I volunteer I can go to the cobbler here and we can open it together
 

dieworkwear

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I am going to speak with Archibald about this personally and put a big caveat on the front page till this is resolved.

If this isn't resolved, I'm going to video tape myself throwing these in the dumpster.

I mean, you don't have to go through the theatrics. If you're not going to wear them, just donate them to Goodwill so someone else can wear them.

I don't mean to pile on, but in the future, we should have a soft norm here against people receiving things for free in exchange for a review, as I don't think this is very helpful or healthy for the board. People's views are often colored by these things. And in any case, if someone really wants to do a review, they can wear the shoes for a while and send them back at the maker's expense. Or we can send it to a cobbler for a teardown.
 

JFWR

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I mean, you don't have to go through the theatrics. If you're not going to wear them, just donate them to Goodwill so someone else can wear them.

I don't mean to pile on, but in the future, we should have a soft norm here against people receiving things for free in exchange for a review, as I don't think this is very helpful or healthy for the board. People's views are often colored by these things. And in any case, if someone really wants to do a review, they can wear the shoes for a while and send them back at the maker's expense. Or we can send it to a cobbler for a teardown.

I don't think you're piling on. I honestly appreciated your help here. You've made me a more knowledgeable person, albeit at the cost of me eating crow.

I said this review was first impression. I said more would be forthcoming once I wore them. I had needed a month because Illinois has been icy and subarctic for most of the last month.

They looked good, the details were nice, and they felt nice. Apparently, I was not as observant, and being worn showed their colours.
 

JFWR

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Send them to someone to dissect them properly. I volunteer I can go to the cobbler here and we can open it together

Okay. I will do so. I may ask my cobbler in NY to do so, though. Send me your details in private please and we will converse on this point.
 

Noblekostas

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Okay. I will do so. I may ask my cobbler in NY to do so, though. Send me your details in private please and we will converse on this point.
Will do tomorrow as it’s 3 am! Sorry you had this experience, but also a good reminder we all have much to learn and first impressions don’t mean a lot!
 

clee1982

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yea, really hard to evaluate leather on first impression I have to say, I can't really tell what's a good leather without a bit wear on them, really bad leather is obvious though.
 

clee1982

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I mean at least this one is suppose to be handwelt so it's more obvious when it's not, otherwise it can also be hard to tell I suppose.
 

JFWR

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I mean at least this one is suppose to be handwelt so it's more obvious when it's not, otherwise it can also be hard to tell I suppose.

So, I have stitching marks on the outsoles. What if anything does this say? Given it is closed channel, why would they put a decorative stitch to deceive me?
 

clee1982

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So, I have stitching marks on the outsoles. What if anything does this say? Given it is closed channel, why would they put a decorative stitch to deceive me?

more less...

edit: you can re-read this again too

this pictures illustrate pretty well (courtesy @Jmr928) , glue hold things in place and a decorative welt with rapid stitch

1615515781778.png
 

JohnMRobie

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So, I have stitching marks on the outsoles. What if anything does this say? Given it is closed channel, why would they put a decorative stitch to deceive me?
Out of curiosity are you familiar with what hand welting is, where it would be and what it looks like? I mainly ask because I re-read your original review and your comment about how you showed it in the picture on the first page and think that might be a good place to start.
 

JFWR

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more less...

edit: you can re-read this again too

this pictures illustrate pretty well (courtesy @Jmr928) , glue hold things in place and a decorative welt with rapid stitch

View attachment 1572545

No, I mean:

So the leather sole is close channelled. I've seen fake welts before but they're open channelled. Presumably, I'm not supposed to see the stitch for a long, long time. Are they doing just just so the decorative stitching will fool me when the closed channel is shown?

Or is it a necessary condition of there being a decorative welt? That there would have to be stitching through the outsole?

I've seen fake stitching on fake welts where the stitching doesn't match the upper stitching, so I presumed that there was no actual connection.
 
Last edited:

clee1982

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Think in a much simpler term,

1. welted (GYW or Blake) have premium over glued shoe, so decorative welt
2. in addition closed channel sole has premium over open channeled sole (think CJ HG vs. CJ Mainline)

so if I'm making a glued shoe and I want it to look "fancy" that's what I would do...
 

JFWR

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Think in a much simpler term,

1. welted (GYW or Blake) have premium over glued shoe, so decorative welt
2. in addition closed channel sole has premium over open channeled sole (think CJ HG vs. CJ Mainline)

so if I'm making a glued shoe and I want it to look "fancy" that's what I would do...

Thank you. That was helpful.
 

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