Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[bernoulli]

He certainly can. I've made various changes to the WW Chan patterns over the years and now we even have a soft shoulder with more rounded quarters on some garments, such as the Solaro I've done with them this year.
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That is in turn quite different compared to their usual cut and with no padding. That's more their usual stuff.

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Same here. I have stopped using Chan but i was able to steer them towards any design I wanted.

 

[tdang]

Damn... 6 commissions. Almost to the mythical 11 before you can form an opinion on the tailor.

I'll report back in 5 years 😂

Some general thoughts, not saying I agree or disagree with you.



I’m not sure how’s this is a driving factor if you have an established relationship with more than 1 tailor. But, I agree if you’re a long time customer, or only have one relationship with a tailor.



I think Antonio is a driving force and appeal. I was just talking with one of my friends about Antonio & he mentioned that, when he ordered from liverano, Antonio took all the measurements and performed all of the fittings.

Taka is the business manager. But, I wonder if Jin stays with liverano: qemal, & vittorio (and hojun, for good measure) all left liverano after performing that role for a few years. I think the vintage vault is a huge selling point of liverano though & it’s often that clients let the tailor select the fabric, once they know each other.



I don’t know if I’d consider liverano the perfect jacket for casual clothing as suggested. I don’t think it’s particularly wrong per se, but I think Naples or corcos is equally fine for casual clothing.



You and me both, my friend haha, although, I can only aspire to be on your level one day.

The first advantage is admittedly one claimed by a regular of any tailor. What I meant to say was that those who have already ordered from Liverano and liked what they got have a strong incentive to stick with them, despite being able to take their business to a number of supposedly more honestly priced operations.

Antonio is a big appeal for me, though my interaction with him was very brief (only two fittings in Florence, each one lasting no more than 10 minutes). That, in my opinion, is a testament to how deeply he has ingrained the brand and the team with his DNA.

As for the point about LL being suitable to casual dressers, maybe it's just me overthinking it a little. I'm aware that there are already a bazillion people out there who are able to make tailored clothing that work with casual clothes. But for me a lot of those options only work; few are actually great.

Sure, if one were to reduce dressing to spreadsheets or bullet points, then a set of fussier, messier-looking details like shirt shoulders, less structure, sleeves that can be rolled up, etc. seem to increase a garment's compatibility with t-shirts and jeans. But for Corcos and Neapolitan stuff, I'd almost always prefer to wear them with a tie. I've never liked a Neapolitan jacket with a collarless shirt or something similarly informal. I guess I prefer a little counterbalance to every outfit instead of leaning too heavily into one extreme?

By the way you should post more of your finished articles here, like the ones from Yuki 🤌

 

[brax]

Breaking the rules here as not bespoke but I’ll give it a go. I dipped my toe into the MTM world today with an unstructured navy jacket; no canvas, no padding, no wadding. It just didn’t make sense to go bespoke on this commission when Vestrucci in Florence already invented the wheel. They fit me with the best OTR offering and then pinned all of the adjustments. The adjustments were written down and given to one of their two tailors who also received the pinNed garment to understand the notations. I chose the heavy 16-17 oz Spring Ram as they have most books available. I should have the jacket in a couple of months.

 

[CLH03]

Breaking the rules here as not bespoke but I’ll give it a go. I dipped my toe into the MTM world today with an unstructured navy jacket; no canvas, no padding, no wadding. It just didn’t make sense to go bespoke on this commission when Vestrucci in Florence already invented the wheel. They fit me with the best OTR offering and then pinned all of the adjustments. The adjustments were written down and given to one of their two tailors who also received the pinNed garment to understand the notations. I chose the heavy 16-17 oz Spring Ram as they have most books available. I should have the jacket in a couple of months.
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So when does a sport jacket become outerwear? Would you plan to wear something like that indoors? Just seems really heavy. Purely asking out of curiosity. I’m sure it probably drapes incredibly!

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Love the 16oz choice. I'd put this very personalized MTO in the Made-to-Measure thread, which is great and needs more love.

Spoiler

Breaking the rules here as not bespoke but I’ll give it a go. I dipped my toe into the MTM world today with an unstructured navy jacket; no canvas, no padding, no wadding. It just didn’t make sense to go bespoke on this commission when Vestrucci in Florence already invented the wheel. They fit me with the best OTR offering and then pinned all of the adjustments. The adjustments were written down and given to one of their two tailors who also received the pinNed garment to understand the notations. I chose the heavy 16-17 oz Spring Ram as they have most books available. I should have the jacket in a couple of months.
View attachment 2022555

 

[comrade]

Reminds me of a blue blazer I ordered from Chipp MTM in the late 80s.
I told Paul that I want a jacket that I could wear on a plane and then go
directly to a meeting. The result: a very dense heavy jacket that "performed"
as intended. It was not unstructured and I have no idea which fabric was used.
I still have it in my "clothing museum" with a bunch of other Chipp
commissions, none of which quite fit.

 

[brax]

The fabric is super porous. So it has the guts of a heavy jacket but can be worn in spring-summer-autumn. It’s a unique jacketing in regards to the weight being appropriate for hot weather.

 

[aristoi bcn]

340g plain weave navy baby camelhair from Joshua Ellis and mid to light grey 360g flannel from Scabal funded. The jacket will be made with three patch pockets, manica camicia and 1 button cuff. Trousers with belt loops, two pleats and cuffs.

My dad is having made a caban/giacone/peacoat in plain a weave navy wool&cashmere from Drapers, circa 550g.

 

[garigo]

Whipcord trousers from Voglio via Jean-Manuel Moreau.

 

[brax]

Spent a little time in this joint today and found a few things enlightening.
1. Their cutter won the Golden Shears award last year.
2. To confirm speculation, December will be the last NYC trip in conjunction with The Armoury but they will continue to frequent NYC.
3. Contrary to what I had been lead to believe, they have no issue with CMT and were intrigued with the LL Everest Cashmere. I have that fabric in hand but will not pull the Doppio Uso commission from the tailor who was very accommodating of my schedule and accepted the commission. Our meeting will be tomorrow.

 

[jonathanS]

Spent a little time in this joint today and found a few things enlightening.
1. Their cutter won the Golden Shears award last year.
2. To confirm speculation, December will be the last NYC trip in conjunction with The Armoury but they will continue to frequent NYC.
3. Contrary to what I had been lead to believe, they have no issue with CMT and were intrigued with the LL Everest Cashmere. I have that fabric in hand but will not pull the Doppio Uso commission from the tailor who was very accommodating of my schedule and accepted the commission. Our meeting will be tomorrow.
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From your post, it was confusing, are you pulling the trigger on the Everest cashmere with liverano? Or the other tailor?

Their cutter is Jin, right? He seems very good. I think @tdang has had quite good results with him.

I wonder if liverano x the armoury will take new orders in December.

 

[BomTrady]

What about Liverano keeps you coming back for more?

I simply like the fit for me - which is the most significant factor for my patronage. I don't limit my bespoke commissions to Liverano and just made it onto Corcos' rotation by the skin of my teeth. But I won't exclude L&L either. If they decided to not come to NYC, I'd force my family into periodic Florance trips, likely against their collective wills, somehow. The wait times have been the most frustrating, but other than that, I've been very happy with the product, the Armoury and L&L's customer service. And yes, I know that I take terrible photos.

 

[jonathanS]

I simply like the fit for me - which is the most significant factor for my patronage. I don't limit my bespoke commissions to Liverano and just made it onto Corcos' rotation by the skin of my teeth. But I won't exclude L&L either. If they decided to not come to NYC, I'd force my family into periodic Florance trips, likely against their collective wills, somehow. The wait times have been the most frustrating, but other than that, I've been very happy with the product, the Armoury and L&L's customer service. And yes, I know that I take terrible photos. View attachment 2023379

If I’m not mistaken, you’d only need one fitting once they have your pattern down. So in theory, you could place the order, they’d come with a fitting a few months later & send you the finished garment.


I suppose, with liverano coming on their own now, That’ll save you some money. So that’s good new for you haha

 

[kid1002]

I simply like the fit for me - which is the most significant factor for my patronage. I don't limit my bespoke commissions to Liverano and just made it onto Corcos' rotation by the skin of my teeth. But I won't exclude L&L either. If they decided to not come to NYC, I'd force my family into periodic Florance trips, likely against their collective wills, somehow. The wait times have been the most frustrating, but other than that, I've been very happy with the product, the Armoury and L&L's customer service. And yes, I know that I take terrible photos. View attachment 2023379

Beautiful jacket! Quinessential Liveraro cut on display.

 

[lordsuperb]

I simply like the fit for me - which is the most significant factor for my patronage. I don't limit my bespoke commissions to Liverano and just made it onto Corcos' rotation by the skin of my teeth. But I won't exclude L&L either. If they decided to not come to NYC, I'd force my family into periodic Florance trips, likely against their collective wills, somehow. The wait times have been the most frustrating, but other than that, I've been very happy with the product, the Armoury and L&L's customer service. And yes, I know that I take terrible photos. View attachment 2023379

Beautiful!