Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[tdang]

I simply like the fit for me - which is the most significant factor for my patronage. I don't limit my bespoke commissions to Liverano and just made it onto Corcos' rotation by the skin of my teeth. But I won't exclude L&L either. If they decided to not come to NYC, I'd force my family into periodic Florance trips, likely against their collective wills, somehow. The wait times have been the most frustrating, but other than that, I've been very happy with the product, the Armoury and L&L's customer service. And yes, I know that I take terrible photos. View attachment 2023379

This makes such a strong case for LL 🙌

 

[tdang]

Spent a little time in this joint today and found a few things enlightening.
1. Their cutter won the Golden Shears award last year.
2. To confirm speculation, December will be the last NYC trip in conjunction with The Armoury but they will continue to frequent NYC.
3. Contrary to what I had been lead to believe, they have no issue with CMT and were intrigued with the LL Everest Cashmere. I have that fabric in hand but will not pull the Doppio Uso commission from the tailor who was very accommodating of my schedule and accepted the commission. Our meeting will be tomorrow.
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Wait a minute here… does that theoretically mean NYC trunk show prices will be cheaper now that they’ve cut out the intermediary?

 

[jonathanS]

Wait a minute here… does that theoretically mean NYC trunk show prices will be cheaper now that they’ve cut out the intermediary?

That’d be my guess. Obviously won’t be cheaper than L&L in Florence. I wonder though. My guess was yes. But if I’m L&L, why would I suddenly start giving the New York clientele a discount for no reason?

 

[Texasmade]

I suppose, with liverano coming on their own now, That’ll save you some money. So that’s good new for you haha

LOL... good luck with that.

 

[brax]

From your post, it was confusing, are you pulling the trigger on the Everest cashmere with liverano? Or the other tailor?

Their cutter is Jin, right? He seems very good. I think @tdang has had quite good results with him.

I wonder if liverano x the armoury will take new orders in December.

Sorry for the confusion. I was tempted to switch to Liverano as they would have accepted the LL Everest commission and their cutter would have been taking my measurements. But I am staying with the other tailor as his work is great and he accepted the commission long ago. Switching would not have been the right thing to do.

Im not sure what the cutter’s name was as it seems he was using an Italian name but was Asian. Jin is probably correct. He’s a very humble and affable guy.

No idea on Florence versus NYC versus NYC-Armoury prices.

 

[classicalthunde]

That’d be my guess. Obviously won’t be cheaper than L&L in Florence. I wonder though. My guess was yes. But if I’m L&L, why would I suddenly start giving the New York clientele a discount for no reason?

I’ve often wondered if The Armoury gets an in-kind compensation of a comp or true ‘at-cost’ commission for their staff for these trunk shows…

Assuming Liverano puts up its own travel and accommodation costs, The Armoury wouldn’t really put out any costs on their end other than staffing. Plus I noticed that their guys tend to each have multiple pieces from their trunk show tailors.

Also, it probably served a marketing role to create future long term clients. Assuming you visit them for a Caid or Liverano show and have a top tier experience, you’re probably more likely to come back for their RTW line which I imagine has better margins…

 

[JohnMRobie]

I’ve often wondered if The Armoury gets an in-kind compensation of a comp or true ‘at-cost’ commission for their staff for these trunk shows…

Assuming Liverano puts up its own travel and accommodation costs, The Armoury wouldn’t really put out any costs on their end other than staffing. Plus I noticed that their guys tend to each have multiple pieces from their trunk show tailors.

Also, it probably served a marketing role to create future long term clients. Assuming you visit them for a Caid or Liverano show and have a top tier experience, you’re probably more likely to come back for their RTW line which I imagine has better margins…

I’m fairly certain that they get discounted commissions. Jeremy Kirkland has alluded to it on his podcast talking about his commissions from Liverano, Spigola and some others.

 

[jonathanS]

I’m fairly certain that they get discounted commissions. Jeremy Kirkland has alluded to it on his podcast talking about his commissions from Liverano, Spigola and some others.

*running to get a job at the armoury for a few months* 😂

 

[lordsuperb]

This makes such a strong case for LL 🙌

Given the status of my current wardrobe and a majority of the basics covered I will most likely spend the money with an established tailor for one offs. I am limited on time these days and no longer have the patience for following up with tailors to make sure things are fitting properly. I would have no problem giving Liverano or Rubinacci my cash to make sure there are no headaches.

However, the price always makes a strong case against it for some.

 

[brax]

Given the status of my current wardrobe and a majority of the basics covered I will most likely spend the money with an established tailor for one offs. I am limited on time these days and no longer have the patience for following up with tailors to make sure things are fitting properly. I would have no problem giving Liverano or Rubinacci my cash to make sure there are no headaches.

However, the price always makes a strong case against it for some.

Might there be a job for someone who takes the Lord’s money, uses a less expensive tailor (basically all of the Italians except the many Caracenis) and ensures the fit while pocketing the difference? I’m looking at you @Texasmade.

 

[Texasmade]

Might there be a job for someone who takes the Lord’s money, uses a less expensive tailor (basically all of the Italians except the many Caracenis) and ensures the fit while pocketing the difference? I’m looking at you @Texasmade.

All fits would look great on my perfect physique

 

[brax]

So I met this nice gentleman today in Florence. He gives me one of these

and the next thing I know he’s walking out with $3,500 worth of cashmere.

 

[brax]

I met Qemal today and he was great. Affable, solidly opinionated, and super knowledgeable. I commissioned the Tuscan (Liverano?) classic Doppio Uso in the LL 1000g cashmere. It seemed wrong to entrust the commission to anyone outside the Liverano family tree.

 

[Crispyj]

I met Qemal today and he was great. Affable, solidly opinionated, and super knowledgeable. I commissioned the Tuscan (Liverano?) classic Doppio Uso in the LL 1000g cashmere. It seemed wrong to entrust the commission to anyone outside the Liverano family tree.
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I think that's the third or fourth Everest cashmere coat he's making!

 

[brax]

I think that's the third or fourth Everest cashmere coat he's making!

It’s at least the second but you may know of a few more.