Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[DavidLane]

I know bespoke denim has been discussed here before, but most every custom option appears to operate from pre-designed models that are tweaked into proportion (a la MTM). I'm looking to get a pair of five-pocket cords I own replicated in denim, which is somewhat out of scope for most of the custom denim options I've found. Any recommendations on someone/place with a decent range of weights/washes and is able to cut and sew from an existing pair?

I used Eric at Fitted Underground, and I am very, very happy with the results. He is in Brooklyn, so you would have to mail the pair to be copied, which is what I did. He is a great guy and understands denim and how to construct jeans. He will also set up a Zoom/Skype call if need be.

I have tried having jeans made several times, however, any of the pairs I had made by tailors failed because they used standard pocket linings, stitching and threads which all blew out in a year. This was my main motivation for using a "denim specific" maker. His stuff is really well built and finished.

https://fitted.nyc/

-DL

 

[otterhound]

Did @UrbanComposition receive his heavyweight oatmeal linen suit? Or did I miss the pics of the jacket? I've been looking forward to seeing it.

 

[edinatlanta]

I've found a few pairs that fit nicely but for whatever reason the models I've liked the most have been discontinued by their brands. C'est la vie. Adding to the complexity is that the corduroys in question are samples that were never actually made by the brand, so not like I can go that route.

FYI: Dvij will be in Atlanta on Friday.

@clothingfun big fan of the one above the white guyabera. Is that bottom button on the back just for show?

 

[Marshak]

Shetland jacket and 4 ply trousers just received from Pastena. Fit spot on. Handmade spot on. Everything spot on. This Abraham Moon is a very nice competitor to the more pricey WBill.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Shetland jacket and 4 ply trousers just received from Pastena. Fit spot on. Handmade spot on. Everything spot on.

View attachment 1683965

Perfect. Nothing I'd change, I'd wear all this myself.

4 ply trousers, are those summer trousers, winter, or year-round?

 

[Marshak]

Perfect. Nothing I'd change, I'd wear all this myself.

4 ply trousers, are those summer trousers, winter, or year-round?

Thanks. It's a 3 seasons, a bit too airy for winter (but less opened than the 6ply I have). I understand why it has become a staple for a lot of guys. Super wrinkle resistant.

 

[clothingfun]

FYI: Dvij will be in Atlanta on Friday.

@clothingfun big fan of the one above the white guyabera. Is that bottom button on the back just for show?

Thanks Ed. The buttons on the back and the front shoulders are ornamental. The vent buttons are functional. I came up with the design and button ideas from looking over the various RTW shirts that were on the shelves as well as listening to the suggestions from the delightful lady I worked with.

@Marshak - Wonderful garments. Thanks for taking the time to share.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Did @UrbanComposition receive his heavyweight oatmeal linen suit? Or did I miss the pics of the jacket? I've been looking forward to seeing it.

I did, and wore it a ton in Italy. Getting dry cleaned now but I’ll post some pics I took from the summer. Really pleased with how it turned out.

 

[artyom.le.gall]

Are my pants too wide? I'm worried I look too costume-y after one or two comments from people saying I look rather old world.

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@benjamin831 they look very good to me!! who is the tailor if I may ask ?

 

[RSS]

dont get the forestiere. it's a terribly dorky garment buoyed only by its class associations.

For some reason I like the forestiere. I sometimes wear -- going on decades now -- a green or black corduroy version for Saturday errands on days that are between just cool and plain cold. I'm thinking of having a firm in Hong Kong make a bright navy one for me. Linings will be royal blue and gold.

I treat it as a winter jacket usually pared with a sweater ... not as a sport coat. I especially love to fold the sleeves back to display the brightly colored flannel lining. Orange for the green version. Purple for the black version.

 

[dieworkwear]

For some reason I like the forestiere. I sometimes wear -- going on decades now -- a green or black corduroy version for Saturday errands on days that are between just cool and plain cold. I'm thinking of having a firm in Hong Kong make a bright navy one for me. Linings will be royal blue and gold.

I treat it as a winter jacket usually pared with a sweater ... not as a sport coat. I especially love to fold the sleeve back to display the flannel lining. Orange for the green version. Purple for the black version.

@RJman has a nice chapter about Arnys in his new book, Swan Song. The chapter gave me a better appreciation of why people are drawn to Arnys and the Forestiere.

 

[RSS]

@RJman has a nice chapter about Arnys in his new book, Swan Song. The chapter gave me a better appreciation of why people are drawn to Arnys and the Forestiere.

I got a note from RJman on Friday and ordered my copy. Now I just have to plan a trip "Back East" to get it signed. I'm looking forward to reading it.

 

[othertravel]

Anybody have a link to the book?

 

[dieworkwear]

Anybody have a link to the book?

Amazon.com

 

[Amidé]

First fitting with my tailor today, working on this Abraham Moon Shetland tweed jacket.