undertheskin
Senior Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2018
- Messages
- 115
- Reaction score
- 113
to me it looks like the inner pocket follows the green dot line and not the ext front dart / red dot line. that's how it's supposed to be. where's the issue?
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Wow. This thread is why I come here. Makes me feel totally normal.
Also, I love Marionos suits. Never really liked the Rubinacci cut when I saw it before, but it looks incredible in the photos DWW posted. Maybe my tastes have changed. Maybe it was always overshadowed by Lucas somewhat garish taste in cloth (although I think it's kind of cool that he's so bold).
Are you sure it's the same Solaro's suit in the different pictures?
I'd say that Marino, Marionos and Marinao are not the same person.
Last two photos are from the same photoshoot.
I believe the first photo is the same suit as the other two. What you makes you believe otherwise?
Only one and the same suit but worn by three different people? That would be strange.
From your earlier post, it sounds like you take issue with how the jetted opening extends past the front dart. But whether a tailor does this reversed patch or not, wouldn't this be true of any jacket with a front dart, extended or not? Here's a photo of Marino, for example.
As an aside, Marino seems to wear this "reversed patch with a jetted opening" style on some suits.
View attachment 1414148
Wow. This thread is why I come here. Makes me feel totally normal.
Also, I love Marionos suits. Never really liked the Rubinacci cut when I saw it before, but it looks incredible in the photos DWW posted. Maybe my tastes have changed. Maybe it was always overshadowed by Lucas somewhat garish taste in cloth (although I think it's kind of cool that he's so bold).
Huh? I'm not sure what you're saying.
Interesting! Have not seen this before. Looks like the cloth covering the pocket bag is part of the facing and not a separate piece. Also first time I’ve ever seen top stitching on the sleeve inseam. On the outseam of the sleeve, yes, but first time I’ve seen the inseam top stitched.a couple of pictures of the hip pockets that show up when I ask for an unlined/partially lined coat without patch pockets
View attachment 1415067
Inside:
View attachment 1415068
Interesting! Have not seen this before. Looks like the cloth covering the pocket bag is part of the facing and not a separate piece. Also first time I’ve ever seen top stitching on the sleeve inseam. On the outseam of the sleeve, yes, but first time I’ve seen the inseam top stitched.
Learning a lot on SF!
Mariano's suits show the effects of a soft shoulder construction combined with an extended shoulder line, as discussed in other threads.
Matt's Rubi jackets show the same thing
View attachment 1414632
A tailor once told me that, when you extend the shoulder like this with minimal padding, the ends will drop even more over time.
I think you see this with Marinao's suit. Here it is from many ages ago
View attachment 1414634
Here it is in 2018
View attachment 1414633
You can see the extension here
View attachment 1414635
Personally, I like this kind of cut. Full through the chest and with an extended shoulder line. But it doesn't work on all body types, and even when it does work, it has some trade-offs.