Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[undertheskin]

to me it looks like the inner pocket follows the green dot line and not the ext front dart / red dot line. that's how it's supposed to be. where's the issue?

 

[IJReilly]

Wow. This thread is why I come here. Makes me feel totally normal.

Also, I love Marionos suits. Never really liked the Rubinacci cut when I saw it before, but it looks incredible in the photos DWW posted. Maybe my tastes have changed. Maybe it was always overshadowed by Lucas somewhat garish taste in cloth (although I think it's kind of cool that he's so bold).

 

[dieworkwear]

Wow. This thread is why I come here. Makes me feel totally normal.

Also, I love Marionos suits. Never really liked the Rubinacci cut when I saw it before, but it looks incredible in the photos DWW posted. Maybe my tastes have changed. Maybe it was always overshadowed by Lucas somewhat garish taste in cloth (although I think it's kind of cool that he's so bold).

Mariano's suits show the effects of a soft shoulder construction combined with an extended shoulder line, as discussed in other threads.

Matt's Rubi jackets show the same thing

A tailor once told me that, when you extend the shoulder like this with minimal padding, the ends will drop even more over time.

I think you see this with Marinao's suit. Here it is from many ages ago

Here it is in 2018

You can see the extension here

Personally, I like this kind of cut. Full through the chest and with an extended shoulder line. But it doesn't work on all body types, and even when it does work, it has some trade-offs.

 

[IJReilly]

Yeah it probably would not look very good on me. I usually try to get tight shoulders because my back and shoulders are already pretty big. Any extension makes my head look ridiculously small.

I think it's overall a very tasteful cut. I especially like the lapels.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Are you sure it's the same Solaro's suit in the different pictures?

I'd say that Marino, Marionos and Marinao are not the same person.

 

[dieworkwear]

Are you sure it's the same Solaro's suit in the different pictures?

I'd say that Marino, Marionos and Marinao are not the same person.

Last two photos are from the same photoshoot.

I believe the first photo is the same suit as the other two. What you makes you believe otherwise?

 

[aristoi bcn]

Last two photos are from the same photoshoot.

I believe the first photo is the same suit as the other two. What you makes you believe otherwise?

Only one and the same suit but worn by three different people? That would be strange.

Anyway, the suit looks good on all 3 and it's a similar cut to what Iorio is cutting for me nowadays. We'll see how it turns out my next purchase I'm picking up in three weeks.

 

[dieworkwear]

Only one and the same suit but worn by three different people? That would be strange.

Huh? I'm not sure what you're saying.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I think you see this with Marinao's suit. Here it is from many ages ago

View attachment 1414634

From your earlier post, it sounds like you take issue with how the jetted opening extends past the front dart. But whether a tailor does this reversed patch or not, wouldn't this be true of any jacket with a front dart, extended or not? Here's a photo of Marino, for example.

As an aside, Marino seems to wear this "reversed patch with a jetted opening" style on some suits.

View attachment 1414148

Wow. This thread is why I come here. Makes me feel totally normal.

Also, I love Marionos suits. Never really liked the Rubinacci cut when I saw it before, but it looks incredible in the photos DWW posted. Maybe my tastes have changed. Maybe it was always overshadowed by Lucas somewhat garish taste in cloth (although I think it's kind of cool that he's so bold).

Huh? I'm not sure what you're saying.

All very confusing.

 

[IJReilly]

I believe his name is Mariano (the senior and imho more stylish Rubinacci). DWW lost a bit of #menswear cred.

 

[moddey]

a couple of pictures of the hip pockets that show up when I ask for an unlined/partially lined coat without patch pockets

Inside:

 

[Despos]

a couple of pictures of the hip pockets that show up when I ask for an unlined/partially lined coat without patch pockets
View attachment 1415067


Inside:
View attachment 1415068

Interesting! Have not seen this before. Looks like the cloth covering the pocket bag is part of the facing and not a separate piece. Also first time I’ve ever seen top stitching on the sleeve inseam. On the outseam of the sleeve, yes, but first time I’ve seen the inseam top stitched.
Learning a lot on SF!

 

[moddey]

Interesting! Have not seen this before. Looks like the cloth covering the pocket bag is part of the facing and not a separate piece. Also first time I’ve ever seen top stitching on the sleeve inseam. On the outseam of the sleeve, yes, but first time I’ve seen the inseam top stitched.
Learning a lot on SF!

Yes, haha! - I've had the same reaction from an SR expat tailor when he's seen my Rubinacci stuff - pretty much every seam is lapped and top stitched. He couldn't get over it. And, yes, the pocket bag is formed by the facing and is not a separate piece.

 

[9thsymph]

(come to this thread for the bespoke, but stay for the typo police)

 

[9thsymph]

Mariano's suits show the effects of a soft shoulder construction combined with an extended shoulder line, as discussed in other threads.

Matt's Rubi jackets show the same thing


View attachment 1414632


A tailor once told me that, when you extend the shoulder like this with minimal padding, the ends will drop even more over time.

I think you see this with Marinao's suit. Here it is from many ages ago

View attachment 1414634


Here it is in 2018


View attachment 1414633


You can see the extension here

View attachment 1414635


Personally, I like this kind of cut. Full through the chest and with an extended shoulder line. But it doesn't work on all body types, and even when it does work, it has some trade-offs.

I've always really like Maryannews shoulder droop...it's a thing, but I like it...