Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

IMO the extended shoulder on Mr. R. is meant to broaden his shoulder/chest so he doesn't look so A line from shoulder to hip. The droop is a side effect. You can see the point his shoulder ends under the jacket. Looks like he has pretty narrow shoulders compared to waist girth.
That shoulder droop is one of the most off putting things to me. Would not ever want to make a shoulder like that.

 

[yanagi]

I've always really like Maryannews shoulder droop...it's a thing, but I like it...

I like a slightly extended shoulder and just enough padding to avoid the droop. But you know what they say, Sui gusti non si deve discutere

 

[FlyingHorker]

IMO the extended shoulder on Mr. R. is meant to broaden his shoulder/chest so he doesn't look so A line from shoulder to hip. The droop is a side effect. You can see the point his shoulder ends under the jacket. Looks like he has pretty narrow shoulders compared to waist girth.
That shoulder droop is one of the most off putting things to me. Would not ever want to make a shoulder like that.

Would this work better if someone has a relatively narrow waist as well?

 

[ericgereghty]

Would this work better if someone has a relatively narrow waist as well?

With perhaps an exception or two that I'm sure exist out there, I think this is true of just about anything in tailoring.

 

[FlyingHorker]

With perhaps an exception or two that I'm sure exist out there, I think this is true of just about anything in tailoring.

Heh, good point.

 

[dieworkwear]

Would this work better if someone has a relatively narrow waist as well?

I personally don't think so. The whole point of the extended shoulder is to help create that V-shaped figure. Most guys don't have that figure.

If you have that figure, an extended shoulder can make you look cartoony.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I personally don't think so. The whole point of the extended shoulder is to help create that V-shaped figure. Most guys don't have that figure.

If you have that figure, an extended shoulder can make you look cartoony.

If I understood correctly, doesn't that presume that narrow waist=V-shape though?

I've a slight hourglass shape with a narrow waist, and my hips and chest are the same width. More an X.

Trying to experiment with different cuts with my body, need to balance comfort and silhouette.

Others seem to like padded shoulder slope and sleevecaps on me with a narrow waist that emphasizes the X-shape, but I'm not a fan. Too stiff and uncomfortable for me.

 

[dieworkwear]

If I understood correctly, doesn't that presume that narrow waist=V-shape though?

I've a slight hourglass shape with a narrow waist, and my hips and chest are the same width. More an X.

Trying to experiment with different cuts with my body, need to balance comfort and silhouette.

Others seem to like padded shoulder slope and sleevecaps on me with a narrow waist that emphasizes the X-shape, but I'm not a fan. Too stiff and uncomfortable for me.

This is less about the specific measurement of the waist and more about the proportion between your shoulders and waist.

 

[FlyingHorker]

This is less about the specific measurement of the waist and more about the proportion between your shoulders and waist.

Does that help? I'd consider that an extended shoulder, just not to the extent of Rubinacci, and it's about as far as I've gone.

The jacket is roomy in the waist. I was thinking of slightly more extension in shoulder, a bit more taper in waist, and a bit more length.

 

[GzianoCucinelli]

If I understood correctly, doesn't that presume that narrow waist=V-shape though?

I've a slight hourglass shape with a narrow waist, and my hips and chest are the same width. More an X.

Trying to experiment with different cuts with my body, need to balance comfort and silhouette.

Others seem to like padded shoulder slope and sleevecaps on me with a narrow waist that emphasizes the X-shape, but I'm not a fan. Too stiff and uncomfortable for me.

I found these videos on Dylan & Son's Instagram Page pretty interesting, so I'm sharing it here:

 

[9thsymph]

IMO the extended shoulder on Mr. R. is meant to broaden his shoulder/chest so he doesn't look so A line from shoulder to hip. The droop is a side effect. You can see the point his shoulder ends under the jacket. Looks like he has pretty narrow shoulders compared to waist girth.
That shoulder droop is one of the most off putting things to me. Would not ever want to make a shoulder like that.

Yeah, it clearly reads a defect, but I like it. I would NEVER ask for it on one of MY jackets, but it looks cool on super elegant old Italian dudes. I could be wrong, but I feel like there are a number of Luciano Barbera images with a similar extended shoulder droop?

 

[FlyingHorker]

I found this Instagram TV Post made by Dylan & Son pretty interesting, so I'm sharing it here:

Makes sense. It makes for a more cohesive outfit.

I'm definitely for fuller cut legs with a taper any day for myself, especially for dress trousers with a crease.

 

[IJReilly]

I have a big chest and a rather large behind. My preference is for little or no padding and loose waist. Some people like to show off their figure or exaggerate it. Personally I don't think that is very elegant.

 

[9thsymph]

I like a slightly extended shoulder and just enough padding to avoid the droop. But you know what they say, Sui gusti non si deve discutere

I also get an extended shoulder with a bit of padding to avoid the droop, but I find it charming on certain gents that are otherwise quite stylish.

 

[dieworkwear]

Just noticed this same pocket style on an I Sarti Italiani coat. Jetted with the stitching around the pocket.

I think I may give this a try on a future order.