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Leather Quality and Properties

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VegTan, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. VegTan

    VegTan Senior Member

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    About leather grades and tensile strength;



    From Direct Selling Shoe Manual (1940).


    [​IMG]


    From Analysis of Leather and Materials Used in Making it (1931). [INDENT][img]http://livedoor.blogimg.jp/veg_tan/imgs/8/0/802f5b50.png[/img][/INDENT]
     


  2. VegTan

    VegTan Senior Member

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    About loose grain and coarse wrinkles;



     


  3. VegTan

    VegTan Senior Member

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    About testing the “break”(creasing quality);


    From American Leathers (1929).


    [​IMG]



    The below from Men's Ex magazine is written by a man who worked as a leather buyer for 15 years at Japanese shoemaker, Otsuka.


     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013


  4. chogall

    chogall Distinguished Member

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  5. VegTan

    VegTan Senior Member

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    The below from American Leathers is a way to cut with the least amount of wastage.


    [​IMG]


    Red wing uses whole steerhide as above, so some are better quality and some are poorer quality.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/markestes/6281292999/in/set-72157627885241522
    [​IMG]


    On the other hand, Grenson says shoulder “goes straight to garbage” because shoulder has more noticeable stretch marks than bend does. Can you see them around shoulder?



    [​IMG]


    I think that shoulder and belly are not used by high-quality shoemakers such as Cleverley and Edward Green, who say “3 pairs” from each calfskin at best. As for Allen Edmonds, they say “6-7 pairs (09:10)”, so they may use shoulder or larger calfskin.






     


  6. wurger

    wurger Distinguished Member

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  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Distinguished Member

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    Superb! subscribed
     


  9. Numbernine

    Numbernine Distinguished Member

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    Great place for "wtf's wrong wit ma shooze"!
    thanks
     


  10. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior Member

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    Wait for the Meermin MTO guys to show up in here and complain about the shit leather Meermin used from Ileca.
     


  11. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Distinguished Member

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  12. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Distinguished Member

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    Very interesting. Thanks for posting.
     


  13. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior Member

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    Very nice.
     


  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    This thread needs more info on scrotal sack leather. I bet it wrinkles.
     


  15. Joshua Lee

    Joshua Lee Senior Member

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    Great thread, very informative. Subbed!
     


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