1. Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  2. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 8 : Enamel Odyssey Watch, courtesy of Atelier Wen

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 8th auction of the year is for an Enamel Odyssey Watch, courtesy of Atelier Wen. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

Leather Quality and Properties

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VegTan, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. VegTan

    VegTan Senior Member

    Messages:
    160
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    About leather grades and tensile strength;



    From Direct Selling Shoe Manual (1940).


    [​IMG]


    From Analysis of Leather and Materials Used in Making it (1931). [INDENT][img]http://livedoor.blogimg.jp/veg_tan/imgs/8/0/802f5b50.png[/img][/INDENT]
     

  2. VegTan

    VegTan Senior Member

    Messages:
    160
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    About loose grain and coarse wrinkles;



     

  3. VegTan

    VegTan Senior Member

    Messages:
    160
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    About testing the “break”(creasing quality);


    From American Leathers (1929).


    [​IMG]



    The below from Men's Ex magazine is written by a man who worked as a leather buyer for 15 years at Japanese shoemaker, Otsuka.


     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013

  4. chogall

    chogall Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Likes Received:
    1,122
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011

  5. VegTan

    VegTan Senior Member

    Messages:
    160
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    The below from American Leathers is a way to cut with the least amount of wastage.


    [​IMG]


    Red wing uses whole steerhide as above, so some are better quality and some are poorer quality.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/markestes/6281292999/in/set-72157627885241522
    [​IMG]


    On the other hand, Grenson says shoulder “goes straight to garbage” because shoulder has more noticeable stretch marks than bend does. Can you see them around shoulder?



    [​IMG]


    I think that shoulder and belly are not used by high-quality shoemakers such as Cleverley and Edward Green, who say “3 pairs” from each calfskin at best. As for Allen Edmonds, they say “6-7 pairs (09:10)”, so they may use shoulder or larger calfskin.






     

  6. wurger

    wurger Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    3,756
    Likes Received:
    3,106
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney

  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Likes Received:
    891
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei

  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

    Messages:
    11,463
    Likes Received:
    1,401
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2009
    Location:
    New York City, NY, USA
    Superb! subscribed
     

  9. Numbernine

    Numbernine Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    5,659
    Likes Received:
    3,872
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2013
    Location:
    Where the palm tree meets the pine
    Great place for "wtf's wrong wit ma shooze"!
    thanks
     

  10. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior Member

    Messages:
    763
    Likes Received:
    120
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2012
    Wait for the Meermin MTO guys to show up in here and complain about the shit leather Meermin used from Ileca.
     

  11. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    5,402
    Likes Received:
    1,007
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2011
    Location:
    Sartorial Wasteland

  12. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,927
    Likes Received:
    1,170
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2009
    Location:
    London
    Very interesting. Thanks for posting.
     

  13. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior Member

    Messages:
    575
    Likes Received:
    101
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2012
    Location:
    Saint Louis, MO
    Very nice.
     

  14. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,689
    Likes Received:
    9,007
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    This thread needs more info on scrotal sack leather. I bet it wrinkles.
     

  15. Joshua Lee

    Joshua Lee Senior Member

    Messages:
    265
    Likes Received:
    27
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2012
    Great thread, very informative. Subbed!
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.