Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[sensuki]

Still had schweddy balls.

Underwear fabric can make a difference here - bamboo or modal blend, for instance.

 

[Concordia]

I wish there were more linen options. Emma Willis just sent me some e-spam about that, but there should be others.

 

[L.deJong]

Holland & Sherry's Dakota has some nice whipcords. There are two kinds in there: one with a more subtle twill and another with a more pronounced twill. They're all nice, but IMO, the best ones are the subtle twill in mid-gray and the more pronounced twill in the slightly darker tan (there are two tans). Unlike cav twill, these are slightly mottled, which I think is nice.

As I forgot to order my Dugdale fabric/HFW... I was really happy that my tailor brought the H&S Dakota bunch.
So I ordered your recommendations: (or at least I think so...)


And the grey one (please let me know if you meant this fabric):


Fabric I choose is in the middle - In reality, it's darker):

 

[bdavro23]

Apart from Brisbane Moss (who refused to sell me a cut length through their Spanish agent last time), do you know any source of non twill (so panama/basketweave/hopsack) tan/khaki cotton suitable for a sportcoat? It seems that W.Bill, HFW, Caccioppoli have only twills in their offer.

Thanks in advance.

Scabal has a number of offerings, one in a prunelle weave that comes to mind.

 

[dieworkwear]

As I forgot to order my Dugdale fabric/HFW... I was really happy that my tailor brought the H&S Dakota bunch.
So I ordered your recommendations: (or at least I think so...)
View attachment 1210333 View attachment 1210334 View attachment 1210335

And the grey one (please let me know if you meant this fabric):
View attachment 1210336

Fabric I choose is in the middle - In reality, it's darker):
View attachment 1210338

Those tan swatches are cav twill. You can tell by the double line twill weave.

Those are great, but the whipcords are the more basic twills with a mottled color. Here's a comparison:

I personally like the whipcords a little better. In brown, I think they do better in a chunkier twill weave, and in grey a slightly finer weave. But they're all good fabrics. I wear my cav twill all the time as well.

This is the grey Dakota I bought. Photo is from my tailor, but I don't see the reference number online. I don't know why. It's a finer grey twill.

 

[reidd]

Do you guys think mock leno is too casual for a DB blazer? Would probably go brown horn buttons and patch pockets. Looking at this one from Finmeresco:

If so, what cloth should I do instead? I need a DB since I already have SB for both winter (Fox serge) and summer (Minnis Fresco Blazersuit).

 

[yanagi]

Do you guys think mock leno is too casual for a DB blazer? Would probably go brown horn buttons and patch pockets. Looking at this one from Finmeresco:

If so, what cloth should I do instead? I need a DB since I already have SB for both winter (Fox serge) and summer (Minnis Fresco Blazersuit).

I chose "the" Minnis mock leno for a DB blazer. I believe others in this thread have remarked that most people won't notice the fabric's weave except to say "nice suit."

 

[Concordia]

It is more casual than some options, but not obviously beach wear.

 

[brax]

From Atlantis re Madras:


The new series of the ultra fine fabrics, are the MFPF and MFP series of madras plaids, which are all 58 inches wide, extra smooth hand-feel and finish, as well as more durable / tighter weave, suitable for jackets, sportcoats, shirts, pants, ties, pocket squares, and more.

Pricing, when fabric is ordered locally, is dependent on quantity.

Most of the patchwork madras and some of the plaid madras are priced at about $9-12/yard, in Retail.


The wholesale discounts on these are as below:

30-60 yards: $1 / yard discount.
61-100 yards: $1.25 / yard discount.
101-200 yards: $1.50 / yard discount.
More discounts on larger orders.

50 yards is the minimum for availing discounts.

Pricing, when fabric is ordered locally, is dependent on quantity.

I thought of informing you that there is also another option of getting this fabric, from our India factory direct by the name of Atlantis Inc. India.
You get the fabric with an additional discount over and above the regular discounts.

Fedex International picks up from our factory warehouse, and drops to your doorstep, all within 5-8 business days mostly, and releases the fabric to you FIRST, and then sends a duty/brokerage bill to you (the consignee gets the invoice as per their rules).


Some calculations in this case, are mentioned below.


PRICE CALCULATIONS FOR RC-SERIES Madras PLAIDS (44-INCH WIDE):
(Shipping costs below are for the US only)


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.75 x 50 yards = $287.50
SHIPPING = $90.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $377.50
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 377.50 / 50 = $7.55.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.45 x 100 yards = $545
SHIPPING = $150.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $695
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 695 / 100 = $6.95.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.20 x 150 yards = $780
SHIPPING = $190.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $970
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 970 / 150 = $6.46.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.00 x 200 yards = $1000.
SHIPPING = $250.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1250
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1250 / 200 = $6.25.


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.85 x 300 yards = $1455
SHIPPING = $390
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1845
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1845 / 300 = $6.15


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.75 x 400 yards = $1900
SHIPPING = $450.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2350
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2350 / 400 = $5.87


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.60 x 700 yards = $3220
SHIPPING = $550.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $3770
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 3770 / 700 = $5.38


FABRIC TOTAL = $4 x 900-1000 yards = $4000
SHIPPING = $650.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4650
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4650 / 1000 = $4.65.
_____________________________________________


PRICE CALCULATIONS FOR RPW-SERIES PATCHWORKS (44-INCH WIDE):
(Shipping costs below are for the US only)


FABRIC TOTAL = $7 x 50 yards = $350.
SHIPPING = $90.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $440
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 440 / 50 = $8.80.


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.75 x 100 yards = $675.
SHIPPING = $100.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $775.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 775 / 100 = $7.75.


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.50 x 150 yards = $975
SHIPPING = $150.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1125.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1125 / 150 = $7.50.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.90 x 300 yards = $1770.
SHIPPING = $260
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2030.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2030 / 300 = $6.76.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.20 x 400 yards = $2080
SHIPPING = $330.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2410.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2410 / 400 = $6.02.


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.80 x 700 yards = $3360.
SHIPPING = $550.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $3910.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 3910 / 700 = $5.58.


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.30 x 900-1000yards = $4300
SHIPPING = $690.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4990.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4990 / 1000 = $4.99.
____________________________________________________________

PRICE CALCULATIONS FOR RTW-SERIES (Flannel Madras PLAIDS) (44-INCH WIDE):
(Shipping costs below are for the US only)


FABRIC TOTAL = $7 x 50 yards = $350.
SHIPPING = $90.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $440
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 440 / 50 = $8.80


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.70 x 100 yards = $670.
SHIPPING = $150.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $820.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 820 / 100 = $8.20


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.40 x 150 yards = $960
SHIPPING = $220
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1180
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1180 / 150 = $7.87


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.10 x 200 yards = $1220
SHIPPING = $280.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1500
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1500 / 200 = $7.50


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.50 x 300 yards = $1650
SHIPPING = $390.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2040
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2040 / 300 = $6.80


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.00 x 400 yards = $2000
SHIPPING = $450.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2450
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2450 / 400 = $6.125


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.75 x 500 yards = $2375
SHIPPING = $450.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2825
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2825 / 500 = $5.65


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.00 x 700 yards = $2800
SHIPPING = $550.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $3350
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 3350 / 700 = $4.78


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.20 x 900-1000yards = $4200
SHIPPING = $750.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4950
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4950 / 1000 = $4.95
______________________________________________________

PRICES FOR MFPF, MFP & MFPP SERIES MADRAS PLAID FABRICS (58 inches width):
(Shipping costs below are for the US only)


FABRIC TOTAL = $7 x 50 yards = $350
SHIPPING = $110.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $460
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 460 / 50 = $9.20


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.50 x 100 yards = $650
SHIPPING = $190.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $840
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 840 / 100 = $8.40


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.25 x 150 yards = $937.50
SHIPPING = $280.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1217.50
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1217.50 / 150 = $8.11


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.90 x 300 yards = $1770
SHIPPING = $340
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2110
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2110 / 300 = $7.03


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.70 x 400 yards = $2280
SHIPPING = $350.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2630
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2630 / 400 = $6.57


FABRIC TOTAL = $5 x 700 yards = $3500
SHIPPING = $600.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4100
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4100 / 700 = $5.85


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.40 x 900-1000yards = $4400
SHIPPING = $700.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4700
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4700 / 900 = $5.22


For 58 inch wide madras plaid fabrics, please add $1 to $1.5 to the price, depending on quantities.

When ordered locally, pricing increases by about $1 to $1.50 for these fabrics.

Keep me informed if you decide to order some madras. I've been looking for the soft, open weave madras that I remember from the 70 - early 80s to make into shirts. The bleeding, soft tones rather than bright shades are what I'm after. Something like this old B2 shirt that I found at a Bankok thrift shop:


Do you have any experience with Fabric Wholesale Direct? They may have what I'm looking for.

 

[gdl203]

Apologies if it's been mentioned before but have any of you guys made up anything in the Marling & Evans summer jacketing WSL fabrics? I'm curious about how they make up

 

[Concordia]

Keep me informed if you decide to order some madras. I've been looking for the soft, open weave madras that I remember from the 70 - early 80s to make into shirts. The bleeding, soft tones rather than bright shades are what I'm after. Something like this old B2 shirt that I found at a Bankok thrift shop:


Do you have any experience with Fabric Wholesale Direct? They may have what I'm looking for.

I haven’t compared photos, but they could be carrying the same stuff.

 

[Bromley]

Apologies if it's been mentioned before but have any of you guys made up anything in the Marling & Evans summer jacketing WSL fabrics? I'm curious about how they make up

Not yet, but they look great. Planning on one of the hopsacks, I think.

 

[blekit]

Hi guys,

I will be commissioning a jacket in grey herringbone. I've narrowed the fabric choice to the following three:

• Caccioppoli 580142
• Dugdale Bros & Co 9469
• Dugdale Bros & Co 4211

I'm leaning towards one of the first two (the last one is slightly too rugged for what I have in mind), but I'm wondering whether someone has any experience with any of above and can share an opinion about it.

Also, I've seen that there are several cavalry twills in The White Rose Caldonaire bunch. I want to make a pair of trousers and from what I've read it is a good choice of fabric for such purpose. Can anyone comment on quality of twills from this book?

Cheers!

 

[bdavro23]

Hi guys,

I will be commissioning a jacket in grey herringbone. I've narrowed the fabric choice to the following three:

• Caccioppoli 580142
• Dugdale Bros & Co 9469
• Dugdale Bros & Co 4211

I'm leaning towards one of the first two (the last one is slightly too rugged for what I have in mind), but I'm wondering whether someone has any experience with any of above and can share an opinion about it.

Also, I've seen that there are several cavalry twills in The White Rose Caldonaire bunch. I want to make a pair of trousers and from what I've read it is a good choice of fabric for such purpose. Can anyone comment on quality of twills from this book?

Cheers!

Well, those are very different cloths, to be honest. The Cacciopoli is an 11 is ounce wool/ cashmere blend and the first Dugdale is a 14 ounce wool. Not exactly an apples to apples comparison. Maybe we could back up for a moment and talk about what exactly you are looking for in terms of cloth properties with this jacket. The Cacciopoli would certainly be a bit more luxurious. Delicate is the wrong word, but perhaps more refined. The Dugdale would be a heartier, more robust cloth, which is something Dugdale does well.

What are you trying to achieve with this jacket?

 

[blekit]

Well, those are very different cloths, to be honest. The Cacciopoli is an 11 is ounce wool/ cashmere blend and the first Dugdale is a 14 ounce wool. Not exactly an apples to apples comparison. Maybe we could back up for a moment and talk about what exactly you are looking for in terms of cloth properties with this jacket. The Cacciopoli would certainly be a bit more luxurious. Delicate is the wrong word, but perhaps more refined. The Dugdale would be a heartier, more robust cloth, which is something Dugdale does well.

What are you trying to achieve with this jacket?

You're absolutely right, I didn't made myself clear. I do realize that Caccioppoli and both Dugdale clothes are rather different. I want to order a mid-grey herringbone jacket that will go well with both jeans and heavier flannels. I have yet to decide whether I want to have something more tweedish and rugged (and then obviously one of Dugdale clothes will be a better choice) or more refined (and then I'll go with Caccioppoli). I was just wondering whether someone has any experience with any of those and can either recommend or advise against it.