Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @blekit,

It's good to hear that!

Although Holland & Sherry is not exactly my cup of tea, I have the impression that this is a suiting bunch and not a jacketing one; fellow members may step in to contribute here.

At any rate, I am wishing you again my very best to this project, we will surely be waiting for pictures.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[blekit]

@Bespoke DJP truth be told, the bunch is described as suiting one. But given the shade, scale and visibility of the pattern I think it will make a fine sport coat with right construction choices (patch pockets, soft shoulders, etc.)

 

[jonathanS]

Any Neapolitan tailors that visit the US that are less pricey than NSM or Solito? Appears prices have skyrocketed across the board in the past 5-6 years.

I think some on the forum tried granata (I think that’s his name). But with budget bespoke you’re getting budget bespoke. My advice is save up & go with the tailor you want. Try rtw ring jacket in the mean time. I’m not familiar with nsm or Formosa pricing but in my experience solito is on the less expensive end of bespoke.

 

[usctrojans31]

Any Neapolitan tailors that visit the US that are less pricey than NSM or Solito? Appears prices have skyrocketed across the board in the past 5-6 years.

Ciro Zizolfi started visiting, but I cannot speak to the caliber of his work. It looks good but more traditional. Tofani prices are a bit lower than Solito. They're here 5 times a year.

A lot of the Neapolitan tailors who visit vary in style and aesthetic. Figure out what you want to look like and go from there. If it's a choice between saving $200 or getting what you want, get what you want. Bespoke is a luxury anyway. Better to not drop the ball on the 1 yard line.

 

[9thsymph]

Guys,

I'm considering this lovat tweed. but typically don't get smaller patterns like this...what do you think?

The Kirkton Archives - Lovat Mill is the Home of Tweed

This bunch presents designs in our single cheviot cloth typified by rich colour mixtures and bold designs. Kirkton Tweed is a 16 ounce/500gram per metre, crisp handling, robust jacketing cloth versatile in its end uses.

lovatmill.com

Thanks!

 

[Concordia]

That's not a small pattern. It is a large texture.

 

[tobehknese]

Outerwear fabric 3m 320usd shipped worldwide

 

[dieworkwear]

Any Neapolitan tailors that visit the US that are less pricey than NSM or Solito? Appears prices have skyrocketed across the board in the past 5-6 years.

Not Neapolititan, but Italian. Salvo from I Sarti Italiani

The Official I Sarti Italiani Sicilian Sartoria Thread - official affiliate thread.

ENDORSED BY STYLEFORUM ADMINS Salvo from I Sarti Italiani will come to San Francisco and will take appointments from Friday 3/8 to Sunday 3/10. He’ll actually be in town a couple days before and after so if you can’t make it during those days, he may be flexible. Jackets are fully canvassed...

www.styleforum.net

 

[emptym]

Go for the H&S Dupioni silk. My best summer sport coat so far. And have it 0.5cm less in the chest. (You find a great result through Prologue Hong Kong or Andreas Weinas or milanstylelive on instagram)

Or I would also see the H&S Crystal Spring range in which you can find some w/s/l hopsack in a very similar texture to the Dupioni (and you can spot a result through Zaremba on instagram).

The swatch that @The Chai posted looks really nice. Would you happen to have a pic of your coat? And would you mind sharing why you like the fabric so much? I've been looking for a similar mottled/heathered oatmeal color linen or linen blend but haven't had any luck. The common view on SF is that silk runs hot, so I hadn't considered it. Thanks!

Holland & Sherry's Dakota has some nice whipcords. There are two kinds in there: one with a more subtle twill and another with a more pronounced twill. They're all nice, but IMO, the best ones are the subtle twill in mid-gray and the more pronounced twill in the slightly darker tan (there are two tans). Unlike cav twill, these are slightly mottled, which I think is nice.

That's really interesting. I hadn't ever heard that distinction between double and regular twill. So it turns out that some pants I thought were cav are whipcord. Are you also saying that can twill isn't ever mottled? I have at least a pair with the double bars that is mottled.

 

[The Chai]

The swatch that @The Chai posted looks really nice. Would you happen to have a pic of your coat?

I didn’t end up going ahead with that. Tailor said too delicate and maybe somewhere down the line after I have had two dozen suits. I’m gonna go with an Ivory 480 gram linen dinner jacket/suit/ sports coat hybrid. One button cran necker lapel with flaps that can be tucked in and unvented

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear Gentlemen,

Some time ago, our fellow @edmorel was offering through B&S the cloth that I am posting here below; if a jacket's length sits somewhere still unfunded, I would like to be of immediate assistance to make some closet space to its owner at a fair price! Just PM me.

If every length is already being made, let us take a look at the finished product.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Bromley]

.

 

[Fantastic Mr Foxx]

Quick question: has anyone ever ordered cloth(s) from this website (https://jhannaltd.com/)?

They seem to have Irish linen in different weights and colours, and I am tempted to place an order for one of their Irish linens, which weighs about 500g/metre (link: https://jhannaltd.com/collections/furnishings/products/glenaan). Very heavy. I however don’t know how well it will perform or even how breathable a linen cloth in that weight will perform when you get it made up as a suit. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Bromley]

Quick question: has anyone ever ordered cloth(s) from this website (https://jhannaltd.com/)?

They seem to have Irish linen in different weight and colours, and I am tempted to place an order for one of their Irish linens, which weighs about 500g/metre (link: https://jhannaltd.com/collections/furnishings/products/glenaan). Very heavy. I however don’t know how well it will perform or even how breathable a linen cloth in that weight will perform when you get it made up as a suit. Any help is greatly appreciated.

They have a few weighs and even different weaves available. The heavy stuff is great. It has a more open weave than a lot of other Irish linens I've seen.

 

[Concordia]

Quick question: has anyone ever ordered cloth(s) from this website (https://jhannaltd.com/)?

They seem to have Irish linen in different weight and colours, and I am tempted to place an order for one of their Irish linens, which weighs about 500g/metre (link: https://jhannaltd.com/collections/furnishings/products/glenaan). Very heavy. I however don’t know how well it will perform or even how breathable a linen cloth in that weight will perform when you get it made up as a suit. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I've done a fair bit of shirting from them, which I send to Ascot Chang to make for a relatively low CMT price. Some of it quite good.