Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Fonz4]

I have 3 trousers in the 3 shades of grey woollen flannel from VBC, 11-12oz. They drape really well. I wouldn't swap for Fox, unless I need some specific color or a heavier cloth because of climate.

 

[Fonz4]

Trying to toss a coin before my next commission...deciding between a;

A) Holland and Sherry cream/oatmeal dupioni (I have attached a picture below. It’s the one to the right) silk sport coat/odd dinner jacket. One button with a cran necker/Parisian lapel and flapped pockets (which can be tucked in if I want the dinner jacket look, and I feel the design is versatile enough I could wear it with jeans or odd trousers...); or

B) Dormeuil Amadeus 365 charcoal herringbone with navy undertone suit in the same configuration as above but as a full suit with grey mother of Pearl buttons

Go for the H&S Dupioni silk. My best summer sport coat so far. And have it 0.5cm less in the chest. (You find a great result through Prologue Hong Kong or Andreas Weinas or milanstylelive on instagram)

Or I would also see the H&S Crystal Spring range in which you can find some w/s/l hopsack in a very similar texture to the Dupioni (and you can spot a result through Zaremba on instagram).

 

[RogerC]

Those Atlantis fabrics are fine for what they are, but over the years, I've been kind of let down by how they feel. The real challenge, I think, is getting an Indian madras pattern, perhaps even bleeding, using yarns that are as high quality as what you find in European mills. A lot of that Indian stuff feels paper-y.

Can I order online from them? Their webpage isn’t too user friendly.

 

[dieworkwear]

Can I order online from them? Their webpage isn’t too user friendly.

It's been years since I've ordered from them, but from memory, I just emailed them with a note about which fabrics I want.

Just to stress again though, the fabric is ... I wouldn't say bad, but kind of a letdown. The quality is basically a step down from even J. Crew. On the other hand, the price is 7 dollars or so for a yard, which is about right, I suppose.

 

[RogerC]

Thanks for your response. I’ll keep that in mind. The reason that I’m interested is they seem to have the same supplier as Drakes. At least, a few of the fabrics look identical to my Drakes madras shirts.

 

[lordsuperb]

Not sure what all the hypes been about but I got to wear my Rangoon suit today in the sweltering heat. Still had schweddy balls.

On another note the moths have invaded my closet .

 

[yanagi]

Not sure what all the hypes been about but I got to wear my Rangoon suit today in the sweltering heat. Still had schweddy balls.

:foo:

 

[smittycl]

Not sure what all the hypes been about but I got to wear my Rangoon suit today in the sweltering heat. Still had schweddy balls.

On another note the moths have invaded my closet .

View attachment 1208895

Moths! Thankfully never had them. Ugh! How do you protect everything else now? Off to the cleaners? Mothballs?

 

[lordsuperb]

WWKD - What Would Kirby Do?

 

[ericgereghty]

Not sure what all the hypes been about but I got to wear my Rangoon suit today in the sweltering heat. Still had schweddy balls.

On another note the moths have invaded my closet .

View attachment 1208895

You're in the DC area, no? I was back in VA a few weeks back. Cannot fathom somebody being able to adequately tolerate that weather in suit...

 

[lordsuperb]

You're in the DC area, no? I was back in VA a few weeks back. Cannot fathom somebody being able to adequately tolerate that weather in suit...

Schweddy Ball fighter:

 

[smittycl]

You're in the DC area, no? I was back in VA a few weeks back. Cannot fathom somebody being able to adequately tolerate that weather in suit...

It's a challenge.

 

[Concordia]

From Atlantis re Madras:


The new series of the ultra fine fabrics, are the MFPF and MFP series of madras plaids, which are all 58 inches wide, extra smooth hand-feel and finish, as well as more durable / tighter weave, suitable for jackets, sportcoats, shirts, pants, ties, pocket squares, and more.

Pricing, when fabric is ordered locally, is dependent on quantity.

Most of the patchwork madras and some of the plaid madras are priced at about $9-12/yard, in Retail.


The wholesale discounts on these are as below:

30-60 yards: $1 / yard discount.
61-100 yards: $1.25 / yard discount.
101-200 yards: $1.50 / yard discount.
More discounts on larger orders.

50 yards is the minimum for availing discounts.

Pricing, when fabric is ordered locally, is dependent on quantity.

I thought of informing you that there is also another option of getting this fabric, from our India factory direct by the name of Atlantis Inc. India.
You get the fabric with an additional discount over and above the regular discounts.

Fedex International picks up from our factory warehouse, and drops to your doorstep, all within 5-8 business days mostly, and releases the fabric to you FIRST, and then sends a duty/brokerage bill to you (the consignee gets the invoice as per their rules).


Some calculations in this case, are mentioned below.


PRICE CALCULATIONS FOR RC-SERIES Madras PLAIDS (44-INCH WIDE):
(Shipping costs below are for the US only)


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.75 x 50 yards = $287.50
SHIPPING = $90.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $377.50
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 377.50 / 50 = $7.55.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.45 x 100 yards = $545
SHIPPING = $150.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $695
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 695 / 100 = $6.95.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.20 x 150 yards = $780
SHIPPING = $190.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $970
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 970 / 150 = $6.46.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.00 x 200 yards = $1000.
SHIPPING = $250.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1250
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1250 / 200 = $6.25.


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.85 x 300 yards = $1455
SHIPPING = $390
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1845
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1845 / 300 = $6.15


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.75 x 400 yards = $1900
SHIPPING = $450.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2350
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2350 / 400 = $5.87


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.60 x 700 yards = $3220
SHIPPING = $550.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $3770
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 3770 / 700 = $5.38


FABRIC TOTAL = $4 x 900-1000 yards = $4000
SHIPPING = $650.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4650
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4650 / 1000 = $4.65.
_____________________________________________


PRICE CALCULATIONS FOR RPW-SERIES PATCHWORKS (44-INCH WIDE):
(Shipping costs below are for the US only)


FABRIC TOTAL = $7 x 50 yards = $350.
SHIPPING = $90.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $440
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 440 / 50 = $8.80.


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.75 x 100 yards = $675.
SHIPPING = $100.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $775.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 775 / 100 = $7.75.


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.50 x 150 yards = $975
SHIPPING = $150.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1125.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1125 / 150 = $7.50.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.90 x 300 yards = $1770.
SHIPPING = $260
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2030.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2030 / 300 = $6.76.


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.20 x 400 yards = $2080
SHIPPING = $330.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2410.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2410 / 400 = $6.02.


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.80 x 700 yards = $3360.
SHIPPING = $550.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $3910.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 3910 / 700 = $5.58.


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.30 x 900-1000yards = $4300
SHIPPING = $690.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4990.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4990 / 1000 = $4.99.
____________________________________________________________

PRICE CALCULATIONS FOR RTW-SERIES (Flannel Madras PLAIDS) (44-INCH WIDE):
(Shipping costs below are for the US only)


FABRIC TOTAL = $7 x 50 yards = $350.
SHIPPING = $90.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $440
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 440 / 50 = $8.80


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.70 x 100 yards = $670.
SHIPPING = $150.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $820.
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 820 / 100 = $8.20


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.40 x 150 yards = $960
SHIPPING = $220
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1180
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1180 / 150 = $7.87


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.10 x 200 yards = $1220
SHIPPING = $280.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1500
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1500 / 200 = $7.50


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.50 x 300 yards = $1650
SHIPPING = $390.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2040
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2040 / 300 = $6.80


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.00 x 400 yards = $2000
SHIPPING = $450.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2450
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2450 / 400 = $6.125


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.75 x 500 yards = $2375
SHIPPING = $450.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2825
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2825 / 500 = $5.65


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.00 x 700 yards = $2800
SHIPPING = $550.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $3350
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 3350 / 700 = $4.78


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.20 x 900-1000yards = $4200
SHIPPING = $750.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4950
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4950 / 1000 = $4.95
______________________________________________________

PRICES FOR MFPF, MFP & MFPP SERIES MADRAS PLAID FABRICS (58 inches width):
(Shipping costs below are for the US only)


FABRIC TOTAL = $7 x 50 yards = $350
SHIPPING = $110.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $460
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 460 / 50 = $9.20


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.50 x 100 yards = $650
SHIPPING = $190.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $840
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 840 / 100 = $8.40


FABRIC TOTAL = $6.25 x 150 yards = $937.50
SHIPPING = $280.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $1217.50
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 1217.50 / 150 = $8.11


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.90 x 300 yards = $1770
SHIPPING = $340
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2110
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2110 / 300 = $7.03


FABRIC TOTAL = $5.70 x 400 yards = $2280
SHIPPING = $350.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $2630
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 2630 / 400 = $6.57


FABRIC TOTAL = $5 x 700 yards = $3500
SHIPPING = $600.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4100
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4100 / 700 = $5.85


FABRIC TOTAL = $4.40 x 900-1000yards = $4400
SHIPPING = $700.
LANDED COST TO YOU = $4700
LANDED PER YARD COST TO YOU = 4700 / 900 = $5.22


For 58 inch wide madras plaid fabrics, please add $1 to $1.5 to the price, depending on quantities.

When ordered locally, pricing increases by about $1 to $1.50 for these fabrics.

 

[Concordia]

So the RC series has no minimum. The MFPF is the high quality series, and appears to be possible with 50m. Cheap enough that the excess shouldn’t be too big a burden even without joint purchasers.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Apart from Brisbane Moss (who refused to sell me a cut length through their Spanish agent last time), do you know any source of non twill (so panama/basketweave/hopsack) tan/khaki cotton suitable for a sportcoat? It seems that W.Bill, HFW, Caccioppoli have only twills in their offer.

Thanks in advance.