Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[JHWilliams]

I see they are not yet released, I understand you also had Fearnaught before being public, am I wrong?

EDIT: thanks to all who commented on the navy linen options, much appreciated.

Yes. It has not been officially released, but the cloth is available. You will not be disappointed.
I wish they offered the woolen wide wales!

 

[FlyingHorker]

@ZRH1

Adding to the choir, I would not go for the lighter navies, go for the darker inky navies with no purple or red.

I had a safari jacket made in a similiar brighter navy. Out came this disaster. There's the issue of safari jackets working poorly as a stand in for tailoring, but I ended up disliking the colour and found it very hard to pair.

 

[Despos]

Be aware of the sheen on dark linen. Most times we make dark linen on the other side, not the face side, because it has a matte look and less sheen. Dark linen colors will shine from wear over time.

 

[kolecho]

I see they are not yet released, I understand you also had Fearnaught before being public, am I wrong?

EDIT: thanks to all who commented on the navy linen options, much appreciated.

Caccioppoli has some single width Irish linen in RAF blue. It’s not bright but not standard navy either. A lovely colour IMHO.

 

[wafflingwaffles]

Anyone ever have something made up of a large percentage of silk?

I'm looking at a 300g jacketing 60% linen 40% silk. Not sure how it'll wear.

 

[Wren]

@ZRH1

Adding to the choir, I would not go for the lighter navies, go for the darker inky navies with no purple or red.

I had a safari jacket made in a similiar brighter navy. Out came this disaster. There's the issue of safari jackets working poorly as a stand in for tailoring, but I ended up disliking the colour and found it very hard to pair.

It looks pretty nice, at least to me. The blue is kind of similar to that of a french chore coat.

 

[classicalthunde]

Anyone ever have something made up of a large percentage of silk?

I'm looking at a 300g jacketing 60% linen 40% silk. Not sure how it'll wear.

I think that was roughly the make up of @dieworkwear’s summer tweed. I am having a suit made up of my length by I Sarti Italiani, so I can’t quite report back on how it wears yet. But it did have a nice hand and an interesting slubby texture.

 

[Markus W]

Anyone ever have something made up of a large percentage of silk?

I'm looking at a 300g jacketing 60% linen 40% silk. Not sure how it'll wear.

Ignore the bad fit (it's old RTW) but this is 100% (!) Silk. It's fantastic. I don't know the producer or weight of the fabric. It's definitely heavier then your lightweight silk usually used for a pocket square. It's silky smooth and a bit rough at the same time but still kind of sturdy. Feels super comfortable but still not so delicate that you fear that it will tear apart.

Does anyone has a source for those type of silk fabrics? I would order a jacket immediately.

 

[FlyingHorker]

It looks pretty nice, at least to me. The blue is kind of similar to that of a french chore coat.

I can see the appeal, but the colour just didn't work well in my wardrobe.

I've gotten more wear out of my safari jackets that are more rugged looking and in earthy colours.

 

[wafflingwaffles]

Ignore the bad fit (it's old RTW) but this is 100% (!) Silk. It's fantastic. I don't know the producer or weight of the fabric. It's definitely heavier then your lightweight silk usually used for a pocket square. It's silky smooth and a bit rough at the same time but still kind of sturdy. Feels super comfortable but still not so delicate that you fear that it will tear apart.

Does anyone has a source for those type of silk fabrics? I would order a jacket immediately.

Thanks, classicalthunde and Markus.

Markus, do you find that the high amount of silk renders your jacket not as breathable? Breathability is a big concern for me. Thanks.

 

[corpseposeur]

So winter has hit hard where I am at. It's a bit too cold even for 18 oz. P&B Universal trousers. P&B has some 20oz. that I might have made up. I was also looking at some 18oz to 20oz fabrics in HFW Alsport and P&H Calvary Twills.

What does everyone like for cold weather trousers?

 

[Bromley]

Merino wool long underwear + whatever trousers you like.

 

[corpseposeur]

Merino wool long underwear + whatever trousers you like.

This is helpful and is very much to the meat of my question. Thanks.

 

[Concordia]

So winter has hit hard where I am at. It's a bit too cold even for 18 oz. P&B Universal trousers. P&B has some 20oz. that I might have made up. I was also looking at some 18oz to 20oz fabrics in HFW Alsport and P&H Calvary Twills.

What does everyone like for cold weather trousers?

If too cold for worsted suiting, try flannel. Also, some cavalry twills can be surprisingly effective. Cooler finish but less porous. And some, like the LL QUCT, are a bit wooly in the bargain.

 

[dieworkwear]

So winter has hit hard where I am at. It's a bit too cold even for 18 oz. P&B Universal trousers. P&B has some 20oz. that I might have made up. I was also looking at some 18oz to 20oz fabrics in HFW Alsport and P&H Calvary Twills.

What does everyone like for cold weather trousers?

Merino wool long underwear + whatever trousers you like.

+1 on Bromely's comment. I used to live in Moscow, Russia and got through some pretty cold winters using baselayers.

My most basic baselayers are from Smartwool. They weigh about 250g/m and are very comfortable. I find they're good between temps 45 and 60. Below 45, I need something thicker and warmer, so I wear the heaviest baselayers offered at WoolX. Those are 400g/m. They're warmer, but they're also thicker and slightly itchier. You don't really notice 250g Smartwool baselayers, but you notice the 400g Woolx. If you find yourself in heated offices, they may also start to feel too warm, so it's a balancing act.

I wore those baselayers under normal wool trousers. Most of those trousers were your usual midweight 12oz to 14oz wool fabrics, often flannel.

The other thing to note is the fiber composition. Baselayers come in pure merino wool and merino-blends (often mixed with a synthetic such as polyester). From what I understand, the wool-polys are actually more durable, which is why they're favored by people who are wearing these for very active things such as hiking. But the pure wool ones don't hold odor as easily. Depending on your day, I find you can wear the pure merino ones a couple of times before needing to wash them.