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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Despos

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@Despos what are the characteristics of your ideal type of fabric to work with when making a topcoat (lighter weight overcoat)? More specifically:

what is your preferred fabric weight range? Do you prefer cloth 16/17 oz range or heavier cloth?

also, what wool compositions do you tend to prefer? Lambswool, cashmere, Escorial, vicuña, wool/cash blends, or other wool blends.
i don’t comment about cloth that much because I don’t use many of the mills spoken about here or the cloth types popular here.
Light weight top coats we’ve made were 13-14 ounce sport coat cloth. Have made 10-11 ounce top coats too. Have only made a couple topcoats over 18 ounces In all my years of business.
Have only a few clients who wear very light weight cloth, less than 9-10 ounce and have fewer clients who like cloth over 13-14 ounce.

my personal cloth preferences differ by cloth type. Sweet spot for cloth weave and weight is different for each cloth and application.
 

FlyingHorker

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i don’t comment about cloth that much because I don’t use many of the mills spoken about here or the cloth types popular here.
Light weight top coats we’ve made were 13-14 ounce sport coat cloth. Have made 10-11 ounce top coats too. Have only made a couple topcoats over 18 ounces In all my years of business.
Have only a few clients who wear very light weight cloth, less than 9-10 ounce and have fewer clients who like cloth over 13-14 ounce.

my personal cloth preferences differ by cloth type. Sweet spot for cloth weave and weight is different for each cloth and application.
What was the cloth type and weight for the high neckline coat you made? If I recall correctly, it was for someone who lived in a very cold region.
 

rjkabk

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Just commissioned a navy herringbone with Dugdale's Needle Ready bunch with Steed. Not sure why I'm asking since it is too late to change now ha, but just curious if anyone has had any experience with the bunch. I came in thinking a different cloth, but the color of the navy and width of the herringbone were more to my liking so I went with it at their suggestion.
 

Despos

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What was the cloth type and weight for the high neckline coat you made? If I recall correctly, it was for someone who lived in a very cold region.
If I can find the order will look for the cloth merchant and style number. That was made a decade ago
 

Despos

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Made this wrap coat in 2016. Double faced Loro Piana cloth.
Tone on tone plaid, black on a charcoal ground. The other side is the same solid charcoal grey as the ground of the patterned side.
Hard to see in the picture; lapels, collar and cuffs on the sleeves are solid grey. Body is the plaid side of the cloth. Used both sides of the cloth on the belt, a solid side and a plaid side.
Client related many comments and compliments on this one. He told me about a man who actually crossed the street in the middle of the block in London to get a closer look and comment about the coat.
Hat is from Optimo in Chicago.
E.S. Wrap.jpg
 
Last edited:

Concordia

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Would think about a different fabric, but a very nice coat!
 

sugarbutch

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Made this wrap coat in 2016. Double faced Loro Piana cloth.
Tone on tone plaid, black on a charcoal ground. The other side is the same solid charcoal grey as the ground of the patterned side.
Hard to see in the picture; lapels, collar and cuffs on the sleeves are solid grey. Body is the plaid side of the cloth. Used both sides of the cloth on the belt, a solid side and a plaid side.
Client related many comments and compliments on this one. He told me about a man who actually crossed the street in the middle of the block in London to get a closer look and comment about the coat.
Hat is from Optimo in Chicago.
View attachment 1740224
Looks cozy AF!
 

Despos

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Would think about a different fabric, but a very nice coat!
@Concordia
This is a one-off cloth I had in the shop.
Think I know what you are saying about the cloth. I struggled with the color and felt it could have been different. Can't think of another color that would have worked better. Wouldn't be the same if it was midnight or brown or whatever color you like.
Wish I could explain the genesis of this coat in words but this cloth was destined to be made up as this coat.
 

Concordia

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You may well have squeezed maximum juice from it. But I'd have tried to find a different cashmere-- more British in flavor.
 

Despos

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You may well have squeezed maximum juice from it. But I'd have tried to find a different cashmere-- more British in flavor.
Client wanted to utilize the double face cloth is a unique way,
therefore; contrasting collar, lapel and cuffs.
Vary rare to find a plaid double face cloth and the other side a solid with the same ground color.
 

Concordia

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Oh, right. Missed that in the photo.
 

Crispyj

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I think Drago Skyfall has plaid and solid double faced cloth
Client wanted to utilize the double face cloth is a unique way,
therefore; contrasting collar, lapel and cuffs.
Vary rare to find a plaid double face cloth and the other side a solid with the same ground color.
 

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