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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    What book are these from?
     
  2. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I thought this was nailhead-
    [​IMG]

    But maybe that's wrong.

    At any rate, the weave above seems like it could be easily done as a simple over/under/over/under
    which I'm guessing- maybe also wrongly - that you need in order to maintain a high twist.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013
  3. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    The one I posted, is this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What you call nailhead I call pin dot but I don't how correct that is.

    High twist relates to the yarn not the weave. Two threads are twisted together to make a 2 ply yarn. There are formulas of how much you can twist the threads and when you exceed those formula amounts and twist the threads beyond that point it is called high twist. It adds spring and makes the cloth more resilient. That's how it has been explained to me.
     
  5. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    lets compromise and call it pinhead.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I was under the impression that nailhead was a different pattern and weave altogether--more square looking, vs the rounded look of birdseye. I would have called NOBD's examples birdseye for sure. Can't see Cantabrigian's example closely enough, but looks like a totally different weave, and what I would have called nailhead.

    Now I'm just confused :(
     
  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    NOBD is birdseye

    Nailhead gives an impression of square grid (horizontal & vertical) rather than round eyes in a diagonal fashion like birdseye. IIRC, the fresco that Manton posted in the past was nailhead
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  8. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Update on the custom runs; selecting a shade of blue from samples to replace black in fresco 0510, the overcheck will be removed (apologies to those that are hoping for it), 3-ply is ruled out based on opinions of this forum, still a question of weight for the 2-ply, either 8-9 or 10-11 (experienced fresco wearers please feel free to comment on the day-to-day difference)

    Nailhead fresco is possible and under consideration to be done after the AFB POW, grey shade will be either 0500 or 0501

    Things are looking promising, will keep the updates coming, please keep the comments and suggestions coming
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There's no 3ply in 8/9? In any event I am all for 8/9.
     
  10. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I would go with 8/9 oz, I think 10/11 oz is much too heavy for warmer months. Are you making AFB first and then the gray one?
     
  11. hst

    hst Senior member

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    8/9 oz for me. I live and travel mainly to countries with a tropical climate. A lighter travel suit or jacket makes a lot of sense for my circumstances.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2013
  12. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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  13. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Yes sir, AFB first, grey second
     
  14. Renton

    Renton Senior member

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    I like the 10/11 oz but I'm in either way.
     
  15. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I think it would be more constructive to explain why you prefer the stated weight, I understand its only 1-2oz difference, but if we're going to go through the trouble, we might as well do it right

    Does the 10-11oz provide no significant "drape" benefits and only cause the wearer to feel hotter or is the 8-9oz not substantial enough?
     
  16. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    I cant commit to the cloth, at least until I see it. Likely too close to a Lesser AFB I already have.

    That said, I have both 8/9oz high twist fresco (0505) and 9/10oz 2-ply (0511). The 8/9oz high twist is very lightweight, truly a summer cloth. The 9/10oz really feels to me like a year round weight, with a scratchy texture, weave is far less open. I was surprised that there was such a big difference between the two but there was, at least for me.
     
  17. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    I propose this then, we do the AFB as a 10-11oz with a soft finish (which minnis said can be done without angora), and do the grey nailhead as a 8-9oz
     
  18. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The difference is pretty big. I have been wearing my 10-11oz up until a few days ago when it got very cold. I would much rather have a fresco in a much lighter more open weight to be more practical in the summer as personally I am only going to start getting very heavy stuff for autumn/winter.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2013
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I'll be interested in the 8-9 oz gray nailhead.
     
  20. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    If you start w/ the 0510
    [​IMG]

    and replace the black w/ Airforce blue, you're going to end up with a very light cloth.

    NTTAWWT but a bit harder to wear than if you sub-ed AFB in for the white and navy in for the black.



    I think 0500
    [​IMG]

    rather than 0501
    [​IMG]

    is the right choice for the light part of the nailhead. With 0501, it'll be too dark, especially for a warmer weather cloth.


    Another idea - and not coincidentally one that I'd be more interested in - is a nailhead with Airforce and Navy blues.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2013
    1 person likes this.

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