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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    True but a flannel PoW SB 3 piece suit isn't that versatile either. Versatility probably isn't the goal with this cloth.

    [​IMG]

    I'm aware of the perils of using a celebrity/fashion icon to display whether or not a particular suit style is doable or not but is it really that out there? It will never be a single breasted mid-weight navy worsted, but that's not what it's trying to be.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2012


  2. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    As an FYI, the reissue for the grey Agnelli tweed has about 50 meters on order as of yesterday, I think 60 is the requirement to make it again, so if anyone is thinking of, or longing for this cloth, please contact Michael Alden so this can go forward.
     


  3. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    No, it's just less versatile, more conspicuous, and less flattering for most men than a PoW SB 3pc. Compare:

    http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=925

    It's true that the ex-king looks pretty good in that DB glen check you show, but (i) it was made by some of the best tailors the world has ever known, and (ii) David was both flat-stomached and slender-chested. I guess the photo does show that if one is going to do DB glen check, it should certainly be button-one to get the long lapel line so as to counterbalance the check's broadening effect.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012


  4. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    I don't necessarily agree. From Gordon Yao:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012


  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    CALLING ALL FABRIC EXPERTS

    Anyone know of a book that has 12oz - 14oz linen in a birdseye-type pattern? Does such a thing exist?
     


  6. SherbrookeNow

    SherbrookeNow New Member

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    Found this thread from black tie guide and I finally made it through all 234 pages. I diligently read every post up until about page 90, after that I admit I did skip some of the prose to get right to the "porn" of the thread.

    Thank you all for posting in this thread. What I like about this thread is that I have an idea of just how much I don't know so I can keep learning. The links and sources along the way have been invaluable. I'm looking forward to exploring the world of fabric in more detail so I have a better appreciation for my wardrobe.

    Cheers.


    EDIT - now that I think of it I have a question. A few years back (somewhere between page 80 and 90 in the thread) a few people were having a row and someone commented about how someone "grew up from Acorn" to other fabrics. Was this just a jib, or is there a quality issue with them?
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012


  7. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Acorn is decent, high-quality, hard-wearing stuff, half of my shirt wardrobe is Acorn, and I'm very happy with it. However, it is not superfine, luxury cloth (which I personally have no use and time for), like Alumo.
     


  8. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    There's a lot of misinformation on SF about Acorn. The fact is that they distribute solid cloth made in the UK. Quality wise they are equal to Thomas Mason within any given yarn size, though I usually prefer the colors/patterns of TM. Alumo is good too but they charge a slight premium for the silken finishing.
     


  9. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    :laugh: True enough.

    More precisely I don't have the budget (or the closet space - which is even more expensive) for limitless odd jackets. I am favoring suits these days am and planning to make at least 3 more DBs in the next year.
     


  10. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Thanks for all the feedback.
    I went with an 11oz basic navy wool (super 120's) on coat number one
    Started with the Samuelsohn gabel base, requested 3.5 inch lapels vs the stock 3'.
     


  11. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I'm basically out of closet space as well unfortunately! Need to get creative soon.

    I think from here on out any suit I get is DB. They work much better for me comfort-wise.
     


  12. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Slew, I'm not sure about birdseye but I do know a mill that specializes in linen which has a wide variety of designs for their linen.They have donegal and POW linens.I'll ask for you if your interested.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012


  13. Renton

    Renton Senior member

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    donegal linens? Which mill is this?
     


  14. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    An example of donegal linen courtesy of the Armoury


    [​IMG]
     


  15. GucciKid

    GucciKid Senior member

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    I am quite curious and would like to know as well. Also, how to get it?
     


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