Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[tim_horton]



In case it matters, a double-breasted PoW check is not going to be versatile.

True but a flannel PoW SB 3 piece suit isn't that versatile either. Versatility probably isn't the goal with this cloth.

I'm aware of the perils of using a celebrity/fashion icon to display whether or not a particular suit style is doable or not but is it really that out there? It will never be a single breasted mid-weight navy worsted, but that's not what it's trying to be.

 

[coolpapa]



I have the Agnelli RAF blue flannel. The Agnelli tweed is the mid gray with gray windowpane.

As an FYI, the reissue for the grey Agnelli tweed has about 50 meters on order as of yesterday, I think 60 is the requirement to make it again, so if anyone is thinking of, or longing for this cloth, please contact Michael Alden so this can go forward.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]



True but a flannel PoW SB 3 piece suit isn't that versatile either. Versatility probably isn't the goal with this cloth.
but is it really that out there? It will never be a single breasted mid-weight navy worsted, but that's not what it's trying to be.

No, it's just less versatile, more conspicuous, and less flattering for most men than a PoW SB 3pc. Compare:

http://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=925

It's true that the ex-king looks pretty good in that DB glen check you show, but (i) it was made by some of the best tailors the world has ever known, and (ii) David was both flat-stomached and slender-chested. I guess the photo does show that if one is going to do DB glen check, it should certainly be button-one to get the long lapel line so as to counterbalance the check's broadening effect.

 

[RogerC]

I don't necessarily agree. From Gordon Yao:

 

[Slewfoot]

CALLING ALL FABRIC EXPERTS

Anyone know of a book that has 12oz - 14oz linen in a birdseye-type pattern? Does such a thing exist?

 

[SherbrookeNow]

Found this thread from black tie guide and I finally made it through all 234 pages. I diligently read every post up until about page 90, after that I admit I did skip some of the prose to get right to the "Appreciation" of the thread.

Thank you all for posting in this thread. What I like about this thread is that I have an idea of just how much I don't know so I can keep learning. The links and sources along the way have been invaluable. I'm looking forward to exploring the world of fabric in more detail so I have a better appreciation for my wardrobe.

Cheers.


EDIT - now that I think of it I have a question. A few years back (somewhere between page 80 and 90 in the thread) a few people were having a row and someone commented about how someone "grew up from Acorn" to other fabrics. Was this just a jib, or is there a quality issue with them?

 

[RogerC]

Acorn is decent, high-quality, hard-wearing stuff, half of my shirt wardrobe is Acorn, and I'm very happy with it. However, it is not superfine, luxury cloth (which I personally have no use and time for), like Alumo.

 

[johanm]

There's a lot of misinformation on SF about Acorn. The fact is that they distribute solid cloth made in the UK. Quality wise they are equal to Thomas Mason within any given yarn size, though I usually prefer the colors/patterns of TM. Alumo is good too but they charge a slight premium for the silken finishing.

 

[poorsod]



FTFY

True enough.

More precisely I don't have the budget (or the closet space - which is even more expensive) for limitless odd jackets. I am favoring suits these days am and planning to make at least 3 more DBs in the next year.

 

[Frankie22]

Thanks for all the feedback.
I went with an 11oz basic navy wool (super 120's) on coat number one
Started with the Samuelsohn gabel base, requested 3.5 inch lapels vs the stock 3'.

 

[Slewfoot]



True enough.
More precisely I don't have the budget (or the closet space - which is even more expensive) for limitless odd jackets. I am favoring suits these days am and planning to make at least 3 more DBs in the next year.

I'm basically out of closet space as well unfortunately! Need to get creative soon.

I think from here on out any suit I get is DB. They work much better for me comfort-wise.

 

[terrorsquad]

Slew, I'm not sure about birdseye but I do know a mill that specializes in linen which has a wide variety of designs for their linen.They have donegal and POW linens.I'll ask for you if your interested.

 

[Renton]



Slew, I'm not sure about birdseye but I do know a mill that specializes in linen which has a wide variety of designs for their linen.They have donegal and POW linens.I'll ask for you if your interested.

donegal linens? Which mill is this?

 

[terrorsquad]

An example of donegal linen courtesy of the Armoury

 

[GucciKid]



donegal linens? Which mill is this?

I am quite curious and would like to know as well. Also, how to get it?