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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    I really like the Botany book - some amazing colours (especially navies) - and it drapes like a dream. Pretty much my go-to cloth for colder weather clothing

    R-O-T
     


  2. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Just ot clarify - what do you mean by 'a drier hand' - is the fabric a little crisper, less fluid feeling?
     


  3. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    Unfortunately, the Botany book at Isles wasn't in great shape so I don't have those swatches yet - I'll be in London in two weeks and will try to track down over there.

    Does anyone know where I can see Smith samples in London? At W Bill, or do they maintain a separate location?

    Also, anyone have any experience with the Smith 11/12 oz book? Apparently that brown/black PoW isn't in the Botany.
     


  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Dry and coarse versus slick and smooth fabrics.
     


  5. johanm

    johanm Senior member

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    Smith is really good about mailing swatches, just email them - [email protected]

    Also, for what it's worth, my experience with Smith vs Lesser in 13 oz is that the Lesser is a little more stiff and dense, whereas the Botany has a smoother and more fluid feel. Lesser performs better but I prefer Smith's colors.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2012


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Asked three people this morning, each of them have been in the cloth business a minimum of 30 years and each answered this differently and all said they would ask someone else to verify an answer.

    Most common in all the answers were a variance of finished widths of the cloth, 58 to 60" wide. Type of finishing, brushing cloth to get a mill finish seems to add weight. Conversion of yards and ounces to meters and grams. Cloth weighed in ounces is measured in running yards meaning the cloth is folded and measured at a yards length. When cut in meters they use a square meter or a cloth that is one meter by one meter. Answer is some of the above or all of the above or somewhere in between or something totally different.
    Regardless, it's almost impossible to discern the difference between 280 and 310 grams.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2012


  7. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Okay, got it. Thanks.
     


  8. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Thanks, Despos. It certainly makes sense.
     


  9. Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink Senior member

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    If that's the Blue Riband book, I took a close look at the book and almost pulled the trigger, but changed my mind and went with Minnis Classic. I asked around about the book and almost no one had experience with it. I'd love to hear a report if you use it. The book is full of great patterns.
     


  10. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    Thanks guys, will reach out directly to Smith and post other interesting swatches. I may very well go ahead with the brown black PoW from the 11/12 oz. book, and if so will share my feedback.
     


  11. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    I believe those samples are from teh SW CONNOISSEUR bunch. Also, you can visit SW (16a Dufours Place) and look through the books
     


  12. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I have a couple of suits from the Smith Blue Riband book, and it is solid stuff. Drier and not as fancy as the Lesser 11oz. Recommeded.
     


  13. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Anyone have a source for minnis flannel that would allow some discount to be had?
     


  14. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Order flannel of comparable quality direct from Fox for 60% of the Minnis price.
     


  15. Slickman

    Slickman Senior member

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    Have not tried fox, but do have samples that look great, what weights do they carry?
     


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