Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Royal_Airforce]

Speaking for myself, I personally wouldn't wear two pairs of pants at the same time.

Well Mark Cho taught us to wear a lot of white shirts. So I thought it would be safe to wear more than one pair of trousers at a time as well

 

[Concordia]

Belt and braces. You can never be too sure.

 

[yanagi]

Belt and braces. You can never be too sure.

How can you trust a man that wears both a belt and suspenders? Man can't even trust his own pants.

 

[krakatoa]

Anyone have experience using Lovat Kirkton for a cold-weather suit? Or is it too spongey?

 

[winghus]

How can you trust a man that wears both a belt and suspenders? Man can't even trust his own pants.

Mandatory with two pairs of pants at once. Braces on the outer pair and belt on the inner pair, threaded through the braces as well as the belt loops.

 

[classicalthunde]

Anyone have experience using Lovat Kirkton for a cold-weather suit? Or is it too spongey?

I have a swatch of it, and it’s notably less spongy than the Magee donegal tweeds. If I’m not mistaken the Kirkton and Etterick are meant to be rough wearing sporting tweeds for outdoor use, and are pretty durable.

 

[classicalthunde]

What weights do people recommend for a proper topcoat/overcoat suitable for a Northeast/New England winter?

 

[Bespoke DJP]

What weights do people recommend for a proper topcoat/overcoat suitable for a Northeast/New England winter?

Once you find your favorite PoW, wouldn't the weight be somehow irrelevant?

BTW, both Drapers (VBC) and Zegna (in the new FW Anteprima) do have the design, but, alas, not in the color that you are seeking. I am afraid that the former has a beige and a mid-to-dark-grey, while the latter a beige.

Cheers,

Dimitris

Edited to add:
It is quite challenging to be able to visualize the whole garment by a small swatch: the overcoating POW design is quite large and sometimes cut / interrupted due to the limitations of the swatch's dimensions; this is why Zegna has specifically photographed a made-for-this-purpose overcoat in the current FW Anteprima to illustrate the beauty of their fabric as it would appear IRL.

 

[konstantis]

Could anyone suggest me specific books or collections for casual shirting fabrics ? I am searching for fabrics that could be suitable for tweed jackers without tie. Thanks

 

[classicalthunde]

Once you find your favorite PoW, wouldn't the weight be somehow irrelevant?

BTW, both Drapers (VBC) and Zegna (in the new FW Anteprima) do have the design, but, alas, not in the color that you are seeking. I am afraid that the former has a beige and a mid-to-dark-grey, while the latter a beige.

Cheers,

Dimitris

Edited to add:
It is quite challenging to be able to visualize the whole garment by a small swatch: the overcoating POW design is quite large and sometimes cut / interrupted due to the limitations of the swatch's dimensions; this is why Zegna has specifically photographed a made-for-this-purpose overcoat in the current FW Anteprima to illustrate the beauty of their fabric as it would appear IRL.

sorry for the confusion the topcoat/overcoat would be a standard navy or charcoal in either a twill or possibly herringbone...I’m thinking hand warming slash pockets and a length that ends just before the knees

the large-scale PoW is a separate pipe dream that I have for a sport coat, that is way down the line of potential future commissions. I just like to always have my eye out for it so if something that pops up in one of the seasonal I can grab it and hold onto it for a future commission...

I see Fox has Exmoor Overcoating at 20/21 oz and Military Issue coating at 30/31oz, and the Kirby Allison video on his topcoat identifies his as a H&S fabric at 26/27oz and am just kind of wondering where to start my search

also, and apologies if this overlaps with the bespoke thread, but are overcoat/topcoats constructed in such a way to be warmer than say a sport coat in a 500-600g tweed (aside from the obvious length and front closure)...something like more padding inside for insulation?

 

[kolecho]

Just added a Fox flannel limited run to my cloth sale thread.

...

...

www.styleforum.net

 

[circumspice]

What weights do people recommend for a proper topcoat/overcoat suitable for a Northeast/New England winter?

The trickiness here is really how active you intend to be - if you intend to be sitting in the stands for 3+ hours at the Harvard-Yale game or Foxboro, it is a bit different than if you are walking to work

 

[Concordia]

Yes. Figure mid-weight (a bit heavier than a Burberry) could be 14-16oz, maybe in a cavalry twill or whipcord. 17-20oz is pretty decent, and about what you would normally get in a good men's department. 24+ is a different level of weight.

 

[classicalthunde]

The trickiness here is really how active you intend to be - if you intend to be sitting in the stands for 3+ hours at the Harvard-Yale game or Foxboro, it is a bit different than if you are walking to work

Not terribly active, but I do a fair amount of walking from building to building during the day for different meetings across campus...this would be my formal-ish top coat for days that require suits for meetings. The goal is to replace my black Brooks Brothers LP StormSystem overcoat that I thrifted a couple of years ago (the black always makes me feel like I'm going to a funeral, and it is a mid-calf length for me which I find annoying)

Yes. Figure mid-weight (a bit heavier than a Burberry) could be 14-16oz, maybe in a cavalry twill or whipcord. 17-20oz is pretty decent, and about what you would normally get in a good men's department. 24+ is a different level of weight.

Gotcha, that puts things in perspective for me. I want it to be heavy, but not as heavy as say a surplus USN peacoat or an old school duffle coat, I think I'll shy away from the 30/31oz then.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I have deranged fantasies of getting a double-breasted, ankle-length coat in 35 ounce cloth, even though it would probably weigh more than ten pounds and make my tailor want to murder me. I just have a thing for big, heavy coats.

That said, a knee-length paletot in 20 ounce, give or take, herringbone tweed seems likelier, especially in the near term.