Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ZRH1]

Haven't tried it but I've looked at Brisbane Moss's canvas book here.

thanks, that is definitely it!

 

[aristoi bcn]

If fresco is the summer equivalent of flannel, what would be the summer equivalent of cavalry twill or whipcord, eh?

 

[dieworkwear]

If fresco is the summer equivalent of flannel, what would be the summer equivalent of cavalry twill or whipcord, eh?

I don't think there's a summer version of those fabrics because twill tends to wear warm. The only summer twill I can think of is cotton twill.

 

[Crispyj]

If fresco is the summer equivalent of flannel, what would be the summer equivalent of cavalry twill or whipcord, eh?

I've seen wool linen blend cavalry twill by Fox. Couldn't get my hands on any though.
Not sure, but if I am correct, it is 55 wool 45 linen blend. Or the other way around ?

Melange Cavalry Twill Side Tab Trousers - The Armoury

 

[aristoi bcn]

I don't think there's a summer version of those fabrics because twill tends to wear warm. The only summer twill I can think of is cotton twill.

I meant equivalent in terms of formality/wearability, for a lack of a better term.

In Winter, you can choose either flannel or whipcord/covert depending on the effect you want to achieve (for me, flannel looks formal as long as it is plain) and both type of cloths can be worn in the same range of temperatures. Probably also with the same kind of jackets. Maybe dense twills look better in the countryside due to its military/hunting connotations. Also flannel does not hold up well humidity/rain. I find fresco doesn't hold up well water. I'm just looking for an alternative (for the sake of variety) to fresco in summer. But yes, what I'm looking for probably doesn't exist.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I've seen wool linen blend cavalry twill by Fox. Couldn't get my hands on any though.
Not sure, but if I am correct, it is 55 wool 45 linen blend. Or the other way around ?

Melange Cavalry Twill Side Tab Trousers - The Armoury

Oh, this is interesting. Thanks.

 

[Mr. Six]

I got a length of breezy wool-silk cav twill from Ed that I Sarti is making up for me as a pair of spring-summer trousers. It might have been Zegna? So the stuff is out there but probably not easy to find. I'd say the equivalent in terms of formality is cotton twill or a wool-silk-linen blend with some texture.

 

[Despos]

If fresco is the summer equivalent of flannel, what would be the summer equivalent of cavalry twill or whipcord, eh?

Holland & Sherry Dakota book has twills/whipcords in a light weight 9 ounce. They really wear and feel like a summer weight.
Gabardine has a twill design in the weave. True gabardines have the twill design pattern on both the face and the back of the cloth. This is the genuine gabardine and harder to find.
Prunelle weaves have the twill design on the face but are plain on the back side. Some gabardines are like this too.
My favorite prunelle weave is Ariston 130's double twist. They offer a basic 130's too but I like the double twist more.
This is the online definition of a prunelle weave
"Prunelle is a smooth 45-degree twill with ribs on one side, commonly used for suits and trousers. This is one of the standard worsted cloths."

 

[zalb916]

If fresco is the summer equivalent of flannel, what would be the summer equivalent of cavalry twill or whipcord, eh?

If I'm limited to two fabrics in each season, I'd wear flannel and whipcord or cavalry twill in the fall/winter and fresco and cotton-linen or garment-dyed cotton in the spring/summer. Flannel and fresco are my dressy options that also provide visual interest with their texture and heathering/mottling. For my other fabric, I want something that I can wear with a sport coat, but also feel comfortable wearing more casually. I'm guessing cotton-linen and garment-dyed cotton may be more casual than others here prefer. However, they provide temperature comfort benefits, like whipcord/cavalry twill do. I also just want to wear more casual stuff, including no jacket, in the spring/summer compared to the fall/winter. Wearing lightweight wool pants without a jacket is probably not happening for me.

 

[Simon A]

If fresco is the summer equivalent of flannel, what would be the summer equivalent of cavalry twill or whipcord, eh?

Both Ulster Weavers and John Hanna sell 100% linen twill, which is well suited to making summer trousers and is pretty hard wearing.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Both Ulster Weavers and John Hanna sell 100% linen twill, which is well suited to making summer trousers and is pretty hard wearing.

Wouldn't that basically end up being like thick cotton twill?

I've heard linen in twill weave isn't very breathable due to the inherent nature of twills.

 

[Simon A]

Wouldn't that basically end up being like thick cotton twill?

I've heard linen in twill weave isn't very breathable due to the inherent nature of twills.

Plain weave linen does breathe better than linen twill, yes. Linen will still breathe better than the same weave in cotton, in most cases. Still, half the world wears heavy cotton twill pants (denim jeans) in tropical heat and humidity.....and seem to survive.

 

[Royal_Airforce]

Wear two of my wool calvary twill trousers at a same weight (10-11oz) in tropical summer (imagine the deadly heat and humidity in HK).

The wider pair (hem size 9.5”) wears so much cooler it beats the other pair three blocks down the street.

As does Ethan Newton who wears 14-15oz Fresco in HK and Tokyo

Heavier clothes esp trousers are perfectly wearable in summer, so long as there is enough drape.

 

[dieworkwear]

Wear two of my wool calvary twill trousers at a same weight (10-11oz) in tropical summer (imagine the deadly heat and humidity in HK).

Speaking for myself, I personally wouldn't wear two pairs of pants at the same time.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Speaking for myself, I personally wouldn't wear two pairs of pants at the same time.

You are a young timer man.