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Mahatma Jawndi
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I've heard tailors refer to topcoats as being coats made from at least an 18oz cloth, and an overcoat as being made from at least a 22oz cloth.

In the Bay Area, I generally wear topcoats in the fall and overcoats in the winter. But for a while, when I lived in Moscow, I was surprised by what I could get away with when I was willing to wear baselayers. With a heavier wool baselayer (WoolX makes the heaviest ones I know of), I could get away with a baselayer + oxford shirt + wool sweater + waxed cotton coat. I could have been warmer, but I was still reasonably OK.

I don't know how cold it gets where you live, but I think the topcoat for fall and overcoat for winter is a good rule of thumb, so long as you're willing to layer. I do find that heavier coats drape better, but sometimes they're not practical in 60-degree weather.
 

classicalthunde

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I've heard tailors refer to topcoats as being coats made from at least an 18oz cloth, and an overcoat as being made from at least a 22oz cloth.

In the Bay Area, I generally wear topcoats in the fall and overcoats in the winter. But for a while, when I lived in Moscow, I was surprised by what I could get away with when I was willing to wear baselayers. With a heavier wool baselayer (WoolX makes the heaviest ones I know of), I could get away with a baselayer + oxford shirt + wool sweater + waxed cotton coat. I could have been warmer, but I was still reasonably OK.

I don't know how cold it gets where you live, but I think the topcoat for fall and overcoat for winter is a good rule of thumb, so long as you're willing to layer. I do find that heavier coats drape better, but sometimes they're not practical in 60-degree weather.

It gets cold enough, but I also grew up in northern New England so I have a pretty good tolerance. For a frame of reference, my Barbour Beaufort gets me through most of the winter except for the occasional arctic blast cold snap.

I know its 'jack of all trades, master of none' but I'd like to get one formal-ish one to get me through fall and winter and early spring, knowing full well that it may be over or underkill depending on the time frame. Maybe I'll checkout the 20-24oz range, I do like the Fox Bros Exmoor stuff they have online, particularly the 'char-navy' but it might be out of my price range if the retail cost per meter is any indication...

I think this topcoat/overcoat would almost always be used on top of a suit or sportcoat, which would range from 10-13oz suits and 13-16oz tweeds
 

lordsuperb

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It gets cold enough, but I also grew up in northern New England so I have a pretty good tolerance. For a frame of reference, my Barbour Beaufort gets me through most of the winter except for the occasional arctic blast cold snap.

I think this topcoat/overcoat would almost always be used on top of a suit or sportcoat, which would range from 10-13oz suits and 13-16oz tweeds

You'll be warm enough with an 18-20oz overcoat if you are wearing a suit or sport coat. I sweat in my overcoat if start to walk extensively...
 

bdavro23

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I know everyone is different, but what is the ball park length for a knee length top coat? I need 2.1 meters for a plain fabric sport coat, and am about 5'8"

What size jacket?

I wear a 40R, am 5'11" and have made a solid color 38" single breasted top coat with 3 meters. Many, many variables obviously.
 

bdavro23

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I have deranged fantasies of getting a double-breasted, ankle-length coat in 35 ounce cloth, even though it would probably weigh more than ten pounds and make my tailor want to murder me. I just have a thing for big, heavy coats.

That said, a knee-length paletot in 20 ounce, give or take, herringbone tweed seems likelier, especially in the near term.

1600109822390.png


I'm talking to a client about making this up for him. I dont think we'll actually do it, because it'll be too warm, but its pretty cool!
 

circumspice

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Gotcha, that puts things in perspective for me. I want it to be heavy, but not as heavy as say a surplus USN peacoat or an old school duffle coat, I think I'll shy away from the 30/31oz then.

It is tough to say where the line is between kink and perversion, but thirty ounces is probably over the line. I have an absurd RL double breasted I got for a song here on the buy and sell forum years back, and I wouldn't be surprised if it were thirty-ish. It damn near killed an old maitre d' once. I don't have a walking commute but rather a wait for a shuttle bus one, well, back in those days when we went places, and since the MBTA Alewife station is a concrete brutalist unheated disaster, it tends to be brutally cold from December until around June when it thaws out, and that weight of coat is good on some of those days. But if I were wearing a flannel suit and walking, I might end up with heatstroke
 

Bespoke DJP

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I have deranged fantasies of getting a double-breasted, ankle-length coat in 35 ounce cloth, even though it would probably weigh more than ten pounds and make my tailor want to murder me. I just have a thing for big, heavy coats.

That said, a knee-length paletot in 20 ounce, give or take, herringbone tweed seems likelier, especially in the near term.


Well, if you don't want your DB overcoat to weight one-third of a spartan shield, I think that you have to select cashmere: 8x more insulating and 1.5-2.0x more warm than wool at a substantially lighter weight.

Certainly, at a different price point,..., still you would never again be obliged to consider 850grams fabric and you would possess an "investment-grade" garment in your collection.

Best,

Dimitris
 

Marshak

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Well, if you don't want your DB overcoat to weight one-third of a spartan shield, I think that you have to select cashmere: 8x more insulating and 1.5-2.0x more warm than wool at a substantially lighter weight.

Certainly, at a different price point,..., still you would never again be obliged to consider 850grams fabric and you would possess an "investment-grade" garment in your collection.

Best,

Dimitris

On the contrary a 850gr cashmere overcoat would be an act of faith. Light cashmere drape badly and are too easy to ruin. I got a 780gr DB overcoat in a Fox supersturdy wool which is perfectly wearable 6 months per year in a temperate country and I barely feel due to the light construction.
 

Bespoke DJP

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On the contrary a 850gr cashmere overcoat would be an act of faith. Light cashmere drape badly and are too easy to ruin. I got a 780gr DB overcoat in a Fox supersturdy wool which is perfectly wearable 6 months per year in a temperate country and I barely feel due to the light construction.


I am terribly sorry but you completely missed my point!

I am only contemplating Italian cloth for some time now, and in this territory, overcoating fabric of 100% cashmere is most of the times found at circa 500grams; I have never seen (even on-line) a 100% cashmere overcoating fabric substantially more than that, let alone at 850grams!

Why? Because, 100% cashmere does not have to be at this weight in order to provide warmth; you are welcome to re-read my post above.

Cheers,

Dimitris
 

Marshak

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I am terribly sorry but you completely missed my point!

I am only contemplating Italian cloth for some time now, and in this territory, overcoating fabric of 100% cashmere is most of the times found at circa 500grams; I have never seen (even on-line) a 100% cashmere overcoating fabric substantially more than that, let alone at 850grams!

Why? Because, 100% cashmere does not have to be at this weight in order to provide warmth; you are welcome to re-read my post above.

Cheers,

Dimitris

I was joking but I can assure you an 850gr cashmere overcoat would be perfectly bearable during an english or russian winter. These 500 gr Italian cashmeres drape terribly and are too fragile and certainly not warm enough when temperatures drops under ten degrees.
 

Bespoke DJP

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I am only contemplating Italian cloth for some time now, and in this territory, overcoating fabric of 100% cashmere is most of the times found at circa 500grams;


Is the maker of London Lounge an Italian mill?

Cheers,

Dimitris

Edited to add:
Is it an 100% cashmere overcoating fabric, or a cashmere-mix? Harrisons of Edinburgh above call the whole bunch of the posted fabric "Cashmere Overcoating", still, this is a 100% wool.
 
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