Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. academe

    academe Senior member

    Messages:
    1,872
    Likes Received:
    229
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2008
    Location:
    Initium sapientiae timor domini


  2. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

    Messages:
    1,126
    Likes Received:
    40
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2008
    Arrived this morning: W. Halstead Wool/Mohair in black/white slubby pick and pick + Holland & Sherry Snowy River midgrey with wide red pinstripe.
     


  3. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

    Messages:
    1,688
    Likes Received:
    361
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2007
    Location:
    Princeton
    

    Thanks for posting this.
     


  4. hst

    hst Senior member

    Messages:
    503
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2010

    +1. Put in an order, but not sure if some colours in my order are still in stock since I do not think the inventories are updated online in real time.
     


  5. fox81

    fox81 Senior member

    Messages:
    891
    Likes Received:
    28
    Joined:
    May 8, 2008
    Location:
    Brisbane
    

    im hoping they are. dont order my stuff
     


  6. apropos

    apropos Senior member

    Messages:
    4,467
    Likes Received:
    311
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Before everyone gets all excited do remember that tailors do tend to charge a LOT more for CMT than whatever their 'base labour cost' is - this almost certainly negates the price advantage when purchasing fabric direct, especially since shipping fabric is expensive.

    e.g. for Australians who want to go the P. Johnson route their CMT cost is the same as a suit in their most affordable fabric range, which is already pretty nice and IMO on par with Crown Classic.

    I have experience with Crown Classic and while a nice bunch it is what it is - simple workhorse fabrics which are not luxurious, and all the patterns are commonly available. The only really nice selection from the bunch (IMO) - the mid grey pick-pick - is already out of stock at HFW.

    After you take into account the hassle/risk involved with purchasing fabrics sight unseen...

    ...well anyway I've decided it's just not worth the time/expense/effort anyhow. YMMV. I just don't want more people making the same mistake as me and ending up with stacks of unused cloth.

    PS: I'll be having a firesale near the end of this year for lots of fabrics - windowpanes, solid herringhbones, cashmeres, handspun tweeds, etc.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2011


  7. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

    Messages:
    1,126
    Likes Received:
    40
    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2008
    I agree with most of what apropos wrote above: The current price for the Crown Classic bunch is good, but really only worth a purchase if you have a tailor who does not charge much more for CMT than he does for a regular job.

    That being said, I do not think very highly of tailors who charge clients for bringing their own cloth. It is OK to charge maybe a bit more for CMT on a client supplied cloth (say 10%) in order to make up for the risk of having to replace the client's cloth should there be any problems during the making (shrinking, cutting errors, etc.). But to charge the same for CMT as for a regular job (from a house fabric) can mean, in my opinion, exactly two things:

    a) Said tailor buys his entry level cloth at ridiculously low prices. Which is ok.
    b) Said tailor disguises a lot of his price as cost for cloth and trimmings, i.e. scamming the client. Which is not what I consider a respectful client-tailor relationship.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2011


  8. academe

    academe Senior member

    Messages:
    1,872
    Likes Received:
    229
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2008
    Location:
    Initium sapientiae timor domini
    

    Fair comments, and I also agree with apropos that buying cloth direct from Minnis is only worth while if your CMT price is reasonable relative to the cost of the cloth. I was planning on having the fabric made-up by my Singapore tailor, whose CMT price is low relative to British or Italian bespoke. If I was going with my English guy I wouldn't bother; he charges me a flat rate for all fabrics (regardless of their level of "luxury"), except for very expensive made from cashmere or more exotic stuff like vicuna. At least for British tailors, I believe that they get their fabrics at VERY reasonable trade prices from UK mills, hence the fact that many Row tailors tend to charge said flat rates. YMMV...
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2011


  9. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

    Messages:
    9,027
    Likes Received:
    650
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    

    Sneak peek please.
     


  10. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

    Messages:
    1,688
    Likes Received:
    361
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2007
    Location:
    Princeton
    

    +1
     


  11. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

    Messages:
    2,513
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    

    Very helpful - many thanks.
     


  12. apropos

    apropos Senior member

    Messages:
    4,467
    Likes Received:
    311
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    

    Some are here, others elsewhere. I need to get everything in one place and then decide which ones to let go. Patience, it will be up come early Dec.

    I am pretty sure I will let a handspun light grey tweed with a light blue windowpane, a handspun grey Donegal tweed, and a camel pure cashmere herringbone go. Probably a jacket length of mottled blue/grey Snowy River, and maybe a brown/camel lambswool herringbone that handles like Moonbeam. :)
     


  13. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,077
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    I was making myself a Sportex erm sportcoat but I put it on hold to get some wedding suits done recently. I was into the idea of getting a suit made from this donegal like cloth but there was just enough for a sport coat. I chose a primary yellow lining with blue and white butcher stripe sleeve lining.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2011


  14. hst

    hst Senior member

    Messages:
    503
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2010
    

    Got an email - my order just got shipped. Shipping to Asia by courier and insurance came out to an average of 7GBP per trouser length of fabric.
     


  15. forex

    forex Senior member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Likes Received:
    155
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    

    What did you get?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by